OlderThanMe

And you haven't? I did about 50 miles with no hands once...but it WAS dry at 75mph...and not rainy, icy, and cold.

The rusty one would work "better" because of the more central turbo mounting flange but I doubt much difference would be seen between them. Not a big deal though...the painted one looks better... A Euro manifold with expansion joints would be the best though.

Sweet!!!

If you get the Maxima N47 head from the 81-84 RWD maxima that is a great one to get. Smallest chamber of any of the L6 heads and great squish. I got mine with head bolts and valve cover for $50 and sold the valve cover right there for $10. The hard part is getting all the L24e EFI stuff off. I just bashed the fuel rail and injectors with a rubber hammer until I could get to the bolts. Also supra 440cc injectors are good to get. The yard I have been to has a flat rate for 6 cylinder engines($110?) and you can sometimes find 2jz motors sitting there...those bring pretty decent prices you know...

You can also use a flap disc on a grinder. I used it and made quick work of the flat areas. The corners were a bit more difficult to do though since it would not fit.

Be sure if you want to get your engine powdercoated that is is CLEAN! I mean like hot tanked and bright looking! like new! I spent a ton of time (6-7 hours total) blasting and grinding my block to get it smooth and clean. TImZ...immitation is the best form of flattery... J/K!! I pick up the block from the machine shop tomorrow so I'll get some more pics of it then.

I got my full engine gasket kit and connecting rod bearings for under $100 today! The engine is at the machine shop getting a small repair done and should be ready by Monday. The plan is to rebuild the shortblock on Tuesday and maybe even make it a longblock. I have to leave for college Friday morning REALLY early so I need to at least get the block bolted up in the car by Wednesday. I am going to be using the E88 head that I have instead of the MN47 because it is already built and I have never built a cylinder head before. here is the pic of this awesome engine builder "OTM"...well that was all my fame...2 seconds worth on the web... I was a fencer for several years(6-7?) and was national points champion once and have been state champion a couple times and second in the southeast...I am now too busy and poor to spend $$$$ on the expensive gear and put the money into the Z. I probably have $2000 of gear and specialized tools in my room... time to sell it all off.

Ford RS200 testing and racing video

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113770

If that car has the stock front LCA positions that car is running some FREAKIN caster!!!

That's cool... I am probably going to do something similar to this on my Z but it will be gloss black with parts being satin black. No chrome or shiny bits outside the engine bay...the engine bay is going to bling city though. Prismatic black and polished aluminum everywhere inside the motor compartment...

like we did not know that... but at about 6X more expensive than ZGs the cost is a bit hard to swallow for us mortal Z guys...

2004 Nissan Frontier crew cab... VG33 at 175hp, 20mpg, ability to haul Z motors, 5 speed tranny, 5 seater $15,000 w/ 35,968 miles VG30DETT should bolt in with some trimming or just build a VG33ET...

what if you made a bracket that bolte to the stock engine mounts and went straight back about 6" and then down to the frame rails? That way you distribute the forces to the frame and stock mounting position... Maybe made of some square or round steel stock

JohnC here on HBZ can supply the collars at a very reasonable price.

I don't think temperature can cause the ceramic coating to come off. Aluminum melts at aprox. 1200 degrees F. I think that the ceramic could withstand that pretty easily. The problem could be the detonation shockwaves though...

I have an E88 that is partially polished...I'll probably slap that back on because it does not need any work to get it working and only has 90,000 miles on it (rebuilt?)... I have an MN47 but everything except the valves needs replacing...201,000 miles on it... I was going to slap the E88 cam,towers, rockers, etc but I don't have the time to set up a head. I have basically 12 days to build this engine...I leave for college Thursday and have 7 days after this semester to get the car fully operational for the ZdayZ at the tail of the dragon Z car show. The block is now at the machine shop getting a head bolt hole repaired and will be done on Monday. I cna put the shotblock back together on Tuesday. Tomorrow I am getting my gasket set and new rod bearings from advance auto...Nissan wanted $216 for rod and main bearings and the gasket set was $350 but NLA!?!?! I paid a total of $95 for rod bearings and gasket set at the local parts store...

"Not to be compared with low cost coilovers" LOL!!! I did my coilovers for about $300 with the springs and threaded colars/nuts. all with high grade stuff. QA1 coils and carrera collars. got the springs from summit and the collars from A1racing.com which is a CASCAR supplier... You just have to have access to a welder (I had free access at the time) and figure out what to do for upper hats...I modified my stock upper hats and it works OK but not great.

That would be perfect on a single turbo 289 project...wiht the divided turbine housing and all... oh wait that project sounds familiar...

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/318609/titan_motorsports_toyo/ Completely kills a viper even with horrible rection time.. Notice the 3 bar boost guage and BIG nitrous bottle in the back:D

rock on Ron! this sounds like a classic "you might be a redneck if" picture to send to Jeff Foxworthy...

"What makes mine so special...My special Z buddy....part mechanic, part driver, and just an all round great person to have around at show" DTSNLVRS: AWESOME!!!! I saw him cleaning the wheels on your Z up at Zdayz last year!!! soo cool. Y'all going to be there this year? I hope to be there if I can get this engine back together in time... I'd have to say my prismatic black P30 engine block is pretty unique... with some of the emblems shaved off..

hmm...INTERESTING...

It probably took an hour for the block to get to 400 degrees with the oven set on 450.