seattlejester

I mean that car looks to be fairly gone, if it outer panels get a new life in a car I think I can stand behind that rather than seeing it crushed. Yea, no clue how or if it will hold up, this is as big a thing as he's ever taken on, who knows it might be the first thing he walks away from. Or it might be the first thing that falls apart as he is driving it, or tries to.

Yea they should be higher, I believe the correct way is to have the rear of the rear fender mount on the rear bumper line, where you have the front of the rear flare sitting is correct, the front does the same with the front lining up on the bumper line and the rear mounting on the door line. ^That car is not quite right, while it looks fine, if you look at the center of the wheels to the body line on the door you can see the rear wheel sits below the line while the front wheel sits above. Also can be seen from comparing ground clearance of the bottom of the car front to back. The front flare is mounted correctly. I think this car was done intentionally this way as the coilover kit he was running when this was taken bottomed out at that height. ^This as Ereschkigal mentions is more correct in that the top two bolts are above that rear line mirroring the front. More corrector. I think the reason people mount it the way they do is the kits don't have the slight curve or step to accommodate wrapping around the line so they just flatten it out there. You will have to cut quite a bit of the body to mount it correctly.

They can have a much weaker spark if they are fouled, the spark would have to transmit through carbon deposits so it would be weaker. Cleaning the rotor and cap could also have helped if there was debris. If this solved your issue then it means either you fouled them up by running it with the choke for too long, or your mixture screws were on the rich side which caused the plugs to foul. Do you also drive around at low rev? The SU's tend to lean out the higher you push them, assuming you had them tuned for your application that usually means a fairly rich idle if you want to stay safe in the upper rev range. As a side effect that means if you don't rev the engine in the higher RPM's you are staying quite rich all the time, I believe this is what people call the "italian tune-up." You should have a regulator, my memory is failing a bit, but on a stock 240z one side of the fuel rail has a restriction which causes the fuel pressure to remain raised.

I've seen a stretched wheel base that didn't look bad, but as the Z is stock it kind of is a sweet spot aesthetically. Granted sometimes things can come together, an art friend showed me how less than a degree can ruin or make something, and without trying you wouldn't know one is better than the other. I don't expect to learn much while watching what he does really. It is pure entertainment for me, I do have to fight the urge to yell at him or face palm on occasion, but I've embraced that as part of his brand of entertainment, kind of like cringey television. Like deciding to shorten the wheel base on a whim for the reason of keeping the engine on the stock mounts was a pretty poor reason. Hopefully he does crowdfund some of his input. I've helped someone mount an E90 BMW rear subframe in a Volvo 240 or 242 a long time ago. Kind of was remarkable how easy it was when you just cut out the rear of the car and center the diff/axle axis in the wheel well and weld to some beams that were put across the body. We used a tape measure, some angle gauges, jack stands, and a jack. Took about 4 hours? So what he is proposing doesn't really require engineering per say, and if he has an aerospace welder do the welds and generate the reinforcements, then it should be sound. The question is can he finish and will it look decent. Meh, this is either going to be impressive or a train wreck, I think that is the essence of entertainment so I'm getting popcorn lol.

I believe he mentioned it in the M5 reveal video, mentioned his plans to race someone, given his past ventures, most likely Tavarish with his twin turbo lambo which Tavarish plans on making 1000hp, so to be competitive you would imagine he would be doing something somewhat similar, unless he mentioned that was just to throw people off, I tend to skip through a lot of content. I mean if we are being honest here, anything over 300hp that has a usable power band is going to be a spirited in a 240z. Once we get to 500hp I feel like the terms excessive come to mind. I agree, I commented hoping that if he feels moving the engine back is necessary to just leave the crossmember up front. Shortening the car like that I agree will make it look kind of goofy. Not to mention shortening the already pretty short wheel base. Going to have poor straight line stability if the high speed race is his goal. I imagine he needs to drive it somewhere to the middle of the country, and go fast in a straight line. Hoping that suspension designed for 4100lbs will perform similarly in a car weighing 1000lbs less is a bit optimistic Who knows, hopefully some reason will hold out, and I'm sure his welder friend will hopefully have some thoughts. I have to say his cars do turn out pretty good looking, and that Evora was very impressive, granted that was all body work pretty much.

Well the plugs indicate you are running rich. Whether that is caused by inconsistent fuel delivery, or incorrect mixture is yet to be seen. The drop in fuel pressure is interesting. I believe the SU carbs want something in that neighborhood. Would you entertain us with a picture of your setup with the location of the fuel regulator and the gauge? We've seen people put the regulator before the rail before, it should be on the return side of the rail. The drop in pressure could mean a fuel restriction meaning even with the pump working at adequate levels the amount of fuel behind the pump is inadequately supplied. That can mean inconsistent fuel delivery which can mean at some points you are running real rich, sputtering, coughing, putting out black smoke, and at other times running lean enough to be ok. The first 15 minutes is a bit of a kicker as that is a bit long for the engine to warm up, indicating maybe that is the time it takes for sediment in the tank to settle down or something of that nature. Assuming this is still a fuel problem. Pop the return line off the fuel rail and run just the fuel pump. Time how long it takes to put out say a gallon while watching the fuel flow, it should after the pump pressurizes the rail be a pretty consistent flow. If the fuel flow, volume, and pressure are good, then you would check the basics, mixture screws on the carbs, spark plug wire firing order, compression, flow, etc. If the fuel flow, volume, or pressure are inconsistent, then you have a clogged hose, plugged filter, holes in your pickup, etc etc etc.

That is super interesting. Our core was pretty thin to start with, but if it was a thicker height I can see how you could shape it instead of trying to curve it with the right tools. That makes a lot more sense on how one is supposed to go about it. Do you cap the ends in any way or is it just a sandwich of sorts? We played with this material maybe 13 years ago? There was only one shop that had prepreg sheets and they only sold it in 1x1 or 1x2 sheets locally we wanted like a 1x3 or a 1x4 with some curves so that wasn't really going to work, we didn't have credit cards being younger back then either meaning no online purchases, kind of interesting how things change. We ended up doing some fiber glass strengthening beams and some type of core mat and hand laid layers of carbon for our little project. I digressed a lot though, but I appreciate your thoughts. My only foray into this may be some hand laid carbon for a hood at some point, doors are way beyond what I think I am able or willing to do.

That is part of his brand of entertainment? Had a similar discussion with a friend about doing things right, for some people it is. Given his speed doing things "right" would kind of kill the flow which in this case is his revenue stream. Although I share your hopes. Also with that drivetrain and potential for twin turbos without some decent repair to that chassis and a serious rear end it is going to fall apart. Curious to see.

Yea, my friend gave me a hearty earful of laughter after we found out. Super interesting getting some of the upper levels in the map to finally register, never been able to rev past 4k with boost before. Hopefully you'll be getting a message real soon! Still definitely want to sort some things out first though. Don't want to be tuning around a physical problem.

That is true, I kind of forgot about the Ford's. I just imagine a twin cam V engine gets pretty close, but VQ's get swapped in pretty regularly and those are twin cams, so are 1UZ's if I remember, granted I imagine the S85 is a much bigger bore/stroke engine. Should be interesting. Curious to see what wide body and what rear end he decides. I imagine he is going to shoot for something around 1,000hp.

Welcome to the forums, it looks like you posted in fuel delivery, than in model specific. I moved both posts to the trouble shooting/general engine section as that seems to be perhaps a better fit. You will probably want to supply more information. Was the car running ok before you installed the pump? Has it always been running this way? Did you install the pump recently? With the fact it is a 1972 Z, the assumption will be you are running SU carbs. Have they been matched? Are both carbs getting fuel and filling the bowls? You mentioned you pulled the plugs and cleaned them, what did they look like? Were they fouled? Without the answers the basics come to mind. Did you check the timing? How old is the gas? Do you have good gas flow? Where is the regulator plumbed in?

Just watched it, interesting he goes for the height measurement before the width measurement.

Only on this forum can you get such specific information. I'll take a look into the full faced normal disc, the description said the endurance disc (which was also full faced) was pretty street-able which is kind of what caught my fancy and that would support my absolute max on quite a bit of my setup so I wouldn't have to change again for quite a while. Well onto something a bit interesting, at least to me. Given my car is almost done on this mechanical iteration, just needing everything touched up and all my half ass things done more completely, I've been really interested in the technical side of drifting. While the whole drift scene can be seen as kind of seen as sketchy with some "ain't care" type attitude, the science behind some of the things are really quite interesting. Angle is pretty important in drifting. While if you are skilled you can make do with lower or stock levels of angle, having more angle gives you more room to keep the car from spinning out or to make the car steer deeper into the corner sideways. Luckily for me I have a friend who has a stock Z on jack stands. I wanted to find out the limits of the stock angle. Turns out pretty much from factory it is at the limit. It hits on the tension rod (I believe the knuckle to the bolts on the tension arm to LCA interface). Meaning you really can't get much more out of the stock Z setup. According to Jmortenson's test of the steering rack the angle output is about 33* if my memory serves. We can play with some numbers here using the pivot point, the steering rack movement etc to get theoretical angles, but I'm not sure if that applies. The S30 chassis has always been seen as a pretty poor drift car and a much better track car, the reason IMO is we have more steering input for a lower angle output. That means you can really dial in the direction you are pointing. In a drift spec car a little bit of steering input makes a really big change making it more of a game of constantly over compensating rather than dialing in a precise angle of attack. Two people have fairly proven setups. Chris Forsberg is one, from youtube you can see he is running AZC 10mm shortened knuckles and the GTX-2 control arms. I talked to Gabe at TTT inquiring about some tie rod ends, and he said he can make things to pretty much any length, so you can get the typical longer LCA and longer tie rod straight from them, in fact if you look at their site you can see they are also offering shortened knuckles for a variety of cars so you can make conclusions there. I already have the GTX-2 arms so I can move the tension rod further inboard on the LCA, lengthen the LCA by an inch if needed as well. That means I just need to address getting a knuckle. The GTX-2 kit already has RCA adjustment built in, so getting the AZC shortened knuckle would leave you with RCA adjustment on top of RCA adjustment. That means I was looking for something like a shortened stock knuckle. That leads us to the other experienced drifter. I don't want to mention his name since I don't want him to remove good info from the internet, but he put in quite a bit of effort into figuring out how to get the stock Z suspension to drift. He managed to get what seems to be the max amount of 60+*. He has some really good posts on his blog, and was sharing measurements and setups, then suddenly he stopped sharing those intricate details. Turns out someone was asking him for the specifics of these measurements, and in what seemed an off hand comment mentioned on his own social posts he may be willing to make some extra sets and sell them. This was taken as an affront to the person who supplied the information, frankly rightly so. So he stopped sharing measurements. The last shared measurements and methods are for what he said is about 45* of angle, which compared to about 33* of stock is quite an improvement. So using his measurements I shortened both spare knuckles. It is more than the AZC knuckles. I started off by using a stock knuckle. I put some bolts through the mounting holes and spaced them so the bottom was flat and could be interchanged with washers (one side is lower than the other). Than I used a bolt and nut on the front and welded the nut to a separate square stock. That means I can slide the separate stock to shorten the knuckle to my desired length. With that done I cut the knuckle with a band saw, than heavily beveled the both sides. Bolt the front knuckle onto the front, than slide it down to shorten and meat up with the body of the knuckle. Then with about 3-4 passes I welded them in their shortened orientation. Not sure if I'll end up running these, definitely am planning another pass and some gusseting for sure, but decided to go ahead with one of my other projects. I need to get some different tie rod ends and maybe weld up a rear end I have and swap to some conventional axles instead of a VLSD if I was a bit more serious about this whole endeavor.

Having played with that honeycomb aluminum, that material is pretty interesting. Lots of structure in the comb direction, you could stand on the material. Super trippy standing on the edge of aluminum foil thick material. Any side load though and it would collapse to the couple sheets thickness of aluminum foil that it was. It used to be pretty prohibitive to find, our supplier was a friend's dad who worked at boeing who bought it from their surplus section. It can support a ton of weight in the tubular direction. The question we had in our application was getting it to fit around curvatures, how to make it thin enough without shredding it, and how to try and keep the resin out of the combs as that would be overall additional weight. Thoughts of adding foam to keep the combs from collapsing, but in the end just a fiber glass structure core was used to support load. Huge aside, but you don't get a chance to talk about that material too often. For the doors, is it because to do it right there wouldn't be much weight savings? Add carbon, add core material, add resin etc. Therefore people who consider it as a weight savings aren't really planning on doing it right?

I'm constantly humbled, every time I think I have something figured out it is the sheer basics or something forgotten that seems to be the culprit. I do appreciate everyone's input.

That jig, I thought of picking it up a long time ago, glad to see it is making its way around. Make sure you find someone that can do a nice mandrel bend, I know the previous owner of the jig tried to weld 3 pieces together to try and save some fabrication effort, but it complicates it in other ways. There was talk of maybe archiving it and going offline, but I think enough of us raised the merit of keeping it online that it is still staying online and we made the switch to a more modern platform I believe. A lot of the old guard is still here I think, some have sold projects and moved onto other cars, some others have recently rejoined the fold. You'll have to search them out :D.

Ugh.....I don't really want to do this, but in the essence of closure I think it is right to do. I bought everything to fix this, 90* rotate flange, the flex pipe for the longer tube another u-pipe etc. Bothered my friend for some time and space since my welder was at his place. Got everything off, started shaving down the bolts for the clocking flange to get a perfect fit, went to go put on my wastegate when I noticed..... There were two ports on the bottom, and one was unplugged. Air was feeding one side of the bottom of the diaphragm, but the other side was left open so it was likely never building pressure. Thinking back, I did pull the fittings when I was manipulating it as you couldn't get to some of the bolts in certain orientation. My best guess is that I wanted to leave both open and decide later what port to use, the other one being in the back near the valve cover probably slipped my mind. That is if I even saw it, it is far back enough that I'm not sure any more. Definitely a case of user error. My wastegate holds boost down to 7 lbs well even with the poor flow routing in 3rd and even in 4th gear. I used the Grimmspeed MBC, really neat unit, they said It goes up 1/4 lb per click, so I clicked it up 28 times for 7 additional lbs of boost and I'm hitting just under the 15 lb mark on my gauge.

Hello, I noticed your attempt to make a post, if you look at the top pinned post it may help with why your post is not accessible, I've put them together here in case you need information from them. Just remember to try and stay away from symbols and punctuation I guess in the title of your posts, elsewhere it seems to be fine, until this is sorted. With that out of the way, oh wow, welcome back! I remember your build! Was a bit sad when I saw it listed for sale. Looks like you kept a hold of it.

That looks awfully low. Usually they are mounted quite a bit higher. Are you planning on keeping the stock body? The way that ends up the car looks almost lifted since the wheel opening is pushed lower.

I believe so, they call the hump on the drivers side the cat hump because of that if I remember correctly. The CO% is carbon monoxide and a catalytic converter's job is to convert that into CO2, so without one you would have to do some funny business to pass. Edit: I am wrong and I am one of the "confused guys" NewZed mentions, lol. Look below for good answers.

I believe the FSM has the lash value. If you are using the oil shaft and talking about sync does that mean you are using an optical disc on some type of ECM? You may have to play with the potentiometers to tune the gain and threshold values then. I really didn't like the optical wheel tuning. HES made things much simpler.

Welcome to the forums. I've noted that you posted in the FAQ section. That does not allow responses. I've moved your post to the technical section. To answer your question, a screen filter in theory would allow more air flow, however it would do so at the risk of allowing more particulates into the engine. If you live anywhere with dirt roads or where you have patches of dirt that can be blown onto the road or lifted by the car in front of you these may not be a good idea for engine longevity. Depending on how often you drive the car it may not matter for example if you get 10,000 miles out of the engine instead of 100,000 miles it may not matter if you drive the car a couple hundred miles a year.

Hello all, I just wanted to give a warning. I am not sure why, definitely after our migration, but it seems like symbols and foreign characters and such in the title of your posts can cause the hyperlink to break. That means although your post exists, clicking on it will not take you to the post and result in a "page not found." This also seems to be the case with some punctuation. I've noticed when some of our foreign users use punctuation they appear different, the symbols are then converted and the page cannot be found if used in the title. Although an inconvenience, I suggest staying away from symbols or foreign letters in post titles. If anyone finds their link results in the same please let me know, I have found I can merge them under a new title and restore the body of the posts usually.

Is that PLA? I'd be concerned about it melting.

My kit used a turned down 300zx rotor over the conventional 280zx rotor to solve this. I still have space to the hub of the rotor, but at least the full pad contacts the rotor.