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seattlejester

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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. seattlejester
    That area actually sees a fair bit of water. I would definitely do more than body filler. You have it out, why not weld the holes shut or patch it up? Then you could seem seal it afterwards.
  2. seattlejester
    Yea without pictures/video/audio this is rough. Looking it up an 044 pump will push 4LPM. Depending on the surge tank size and design that might be too much. I've seen kits in the past where people used oil filters as surge tanks. While it works you could empty it before it started refilling to capacity if you weren't careful. Also without seeing the surge tank setup one can only guess how it is pulling fuel. I've seen some pneumatic pump designs where the suction is so strong and the tank material so weak that it pulled the bottom of the tank towards the pump inlet and cut off flow. When you shut the pump off it would relax. Took forever to find out what was going on.
  3. seattlejester
    Echoing above, what's the carter fuel pump rated to? Do you have a fuel return back to your fuel tank once the surge tank fills? Can you hear it trickling back? Do you have a vent line back to the tank or to atmosphere? If the bosch pump pulls more then the carter pump you are going to have an imbalance in pressures if you have a sealed system for the most part. What kind of lines are you running? Have you checked the fuel filter? I know bosch pumps don't like a fine filter in front of them. Some people even suggest running without one for pump longevity. The check valve would keep fuel in the initial startup, but once the car is running if it continues to make 10psi then you have another problem somewhere. This is where video or pictures are worth a lot more. Are you running the bosch pump dry? Do you have a sock on the pump? Is it cavitating? Without the pictures and information this discussion really fair to try and have.
  4. seattlejester
    You can disconnect the fuel by just pulling the feed line off the mechanical fuel pump. It is alright sometimes it takes a while to reason through things. I believe the link lines up at TDC. Looking at it at another point would not be the most helpful. The crank gear I imagine spins at double the speed of the cam gear. So it will move depending on which part of the 4 stroke cycle you are on. What lowrider says is also what I was told. Compression can be a bit lower then expected, but as long as they are even that is better then if you had high compression with one outlier. Granted when your compression gets really low you have to consider there may be something systematically wrong. In this case a cold engine with the throttle shut may be the culprit.
  5. seattlejester
    Completely the wrong place. This is not an announcement. This is a price check request. There is a buy sell trade section with a sub category for price check which you are asking for.
  6. seattlejester
    Assuming off the bat that your gauge is good.... Any tell tale signs? White smoke out the back, hydro carbons in the coolant, blue smoke out the tail pipe? You can isolate it to see if it is a problem with the head or rings. Run it again and drop a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole, a small amount like a cap full. If the compression shoots up, then you know it is a problem with the rings. Did you gap them correctly would be the question that comes up. If the compression stays the same, then the problem is most likely above the piston so either a leaking head gasket (some MLS head gaskets are notoriously hard to get a good seal) or the head it self (valves not closing all the way from carbon buildup, incorrect valve lash, incorrect valve stem height).
  7. seattlejester
    That makes a bit more sense. I appreciate a good margin as much as the next guy. I was just curious if the theoretical peak hp was really double the real world hp expectations of a pump. I mean Real St builds some really high hp JZ motors so I was curious if their recommendation was off or no one bothers to actually convert to inline.
  8. seattlejester
    I was running my bosch 044 through a nitrous relay box. They have higher rated amps and relays, cheaper, and more sanitary, so I can't comment on the actual relay board. I did run 12 gauge on mine, just because I had it. Over 20 amps still seems really high. Real street did a test that said with boost an 044 pump should flow enough for 800hp in theory. People usually say if you try to break 600 you want dual. One guy got 700ish I believe in application on a single 044 pretty well documented as well. http://realstreetperformance.com/Fuel-Pump-Comparison-Test.html Curious why it is only good for 450hp? I understand with E85 the fuel usage increases so makes sense, but in gas tests it seems the 044 should be good if it is fed through the appropriate sized lines (3/8 is what many people suggested, AN6).
  9. seattlejester
    If you don't mind. The picture I found online says to use two per bulb for 1157 bulbs which the indicators are, but if it works with just one that would be a savings.
  10. seattlejester
    It really is just designed so that you don't pull in water into the car with the fresh air. If you really want you can match up to whatever heater/blower you plan on running, but yea a box section is way easier to work with then trying to use use sheet metal and spot weld.
  11. seattlejester
    Oh man you are going all out. V-fib did the same repair. His had actual holes. I roughed out the shape for him and put in the curves and suggested he go out and grab a box section for the vent chimney. He welded it in.
  12. seattlejester
    I guess I will explore that option. I'm pretty sure it all worked with the old bulbs and old flasher. I was excited for the new flasher as they don't take nearly as long to flash. In the instructions it says two load resistors per bulb, given 4 bulbs, does that mean 8 load resistors required?
  13. seattlejester
    It really depends on what you plan with it. Is top speed your game? Cruising? Autocross? Might be worth doing the numbers to see what would work well. The T56 has a really low number for 6th gear of 0.5, probably one of the reasons the cars got decent gas mileage. Engine Speed (RPM) MPH 4.08 Gear MPH 4.375 Gear MPH 4.636 Gear 8000 RPM 280.00 MPH 261.12 MPH 246.42 MPH 7500 RPM 262.50 MPH 244.80 MPH 231.02 MPH 7000 RPM 245.00 MPH 228.48 MPH 215.62 MPH 6500 RPM 227.50 MPH 212.16 MPH 200.22 MPH 6000 RPM 210.00 MPH 195.84 MPH 184.81 MPH 5500 RPM 192.50 MPH 179.52 MPH 169.41 MPH 5000 RPM 175.00 MPH 163.20 MPH 154.01 MPH 4500 RPM 157.50 MPH 146.88 MPH 138.61 MPH 4000 RPM 140.00 MPH 130.56 MPH 123.21 MPH 3500 RPM 122.50 MPH 114.24 MPH 107.81 MPH 3000 RPM 105.00 MPH 97.92 MPH 92.41 MPH 2500 RPM 87.50 MPH 81.60 MPH 77.01 MPH 2000 RPM 70.00 MPH 65.28 MPH 61.60 MPH 1500 RPM 52.50 MPH 48.96 MPH 46.20 MPH 1000 RPM 35.00 MPH 32.64 MPH 30.80 MPH That is the chart a calculator spit out on me for 6th gear with the different final drives. 70mph in 6th at 2k rpm sounds heavenly for cruising with the 4.08. Up to you to run the numbers to see if the speed/gears are right for the application. Not sure what to say regarding the spacers. I was told certain parts were NLA and I found them on eBay, or going direct to a dealership and talking to the parts guy he helped find the diagram and pulled up the list for some small parts. A differential shop might have an old shim kit they can use. https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-differential/nissan/oem-rear-differential-shim-p-6146.html shows a couple side spacers in stock. I know some of the drifter guys used to save the shims from differentials they broke so they had stacks of shims to play with. If you get desperate you could pull a JY diff of any of that era and have the thicker spacer machined down? Might be worth doing the measurement and figuring out exactly what you need?
  14. seattlejester
    Running into a strange problem. With the running lights on, it seems the turn signals do not work anymore. Even with electronic flashers. I do note that when I kick the running lights on my turn signal indicators dim, I wonder if there is too much draw on them to trigger the flasher with them being "dual filament" (two trigger) bulbs. With that issue aside, chickenman helped set me in the right direction with the tune. Car seems much happier now. Very good advice about making it rich and allowing the software to pull fuel rather then add fuel. I ran a very quick tune session and the AFR's are much much better then they have been. The nice weather is definitely coming to a close, so I asked a friend and forum member if he wouldn't mind taking a few shots of my car. We headed out downtown. I did a fair amount of swearing in the stop and go traffic, but the car seemed to do well. Temps didn't get hotter then 5* above running temp. He was really devoted, willing to lie on the ground for the shots. I think they turned out pretty nice. The blast back home through the tunnels was fantastic I'll have to bother him for the sound clip some time. I did notice a coupler had blown off the turbo, so that will have to be re-tightend. During the shoot, at one point the car started making a much higher pitched grumble and whine from the fuel pump. It still got us home fine, but I had been abusing it in some regard given it isn't fed fuel very nicely and it was trying to cram fuel through through an artificially small fitting. I thought it best to be proactive and swap out the pump. DW seems to be pretty popular so I picked up one of the inline pumps. Made some new terminals. Swapped it right in. Definitely quieter then the Bosch 044, less whine, more of a little buzz. Car also seemed to start much better even from cold. Definitely a bit more tuning to do, I think the cosmetic touches turned out nice, so time to make the rest of the car a bit more presentable.
  15. seattlejester
    I got the second electronic flasher in. Turn signals work fine when the running lights are off, but with them on they seem to only get brighter and stay on. Anyone having the same issue? I can tell the bulbs get brighter when I flick the turn signal, but they just stay on and don't flash. I'm thinking of cutting the connection to the bulb for the running light so they are only a turn flasher instead of a running light/turn signal combo.
  16. seattlejester
    One of those things where if you have to ask, probably best not to. They have in general come up in quality, but one really wouldn't be surprised if they prematurely fail. A genuine turbo is more or less a life of the engine kind of thing, eBay turbos don't seem to do well at 10,000 miles if it even makes it past the first 10 miles. There are some half measure places. CX has better quality control according to some. Driftmotion turbos use genuine garrett center sections in aftermarket housings. VR I think even offers a warranty longer then 30 days. If you are not equipped to deal with one going bad, (blown oil seals, unbalanced wheels, fragments chipping and going through the engine), then probably not worth a look. I mean for a bit more than $500 you can get a brand new borgwarner turbo with a warranty and customer support. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-AirWerks-S200SX-Turbo-51mm-T4-Twin-Scroll-0-83-A-R-220-580hp-177257/181774009769?hash=item2a529345a9:g:01sAAOSwu1VW3xBl&vxp=mtr
  17. seattlejester
    That is a fairly low ratio, what is it going behind? You can look up master lists of the parts and order the needed shim from places like courtesy nissan I believe. Small dealerships may not carry stock or can't be bothered to lookup the part in the warehouse. Most people in the 240sx community just recycle old shims. Assuming the center is the same size the shims are set for side to side play so using the ones that came with the differential is usually a good starting point. Certain aftermarket center sections also come with a variety of shims, might be worth looking that up. Local diff shops also carry shims in master kits. Last, a machine shop should be able to make you shims if you really need an odd size.
  18. seattlejester
    Of course, neutralizing acid products is a must. I've only used the bristle ones for getting gasket material off an engine. With a vertical/not angled die grinder you basically have a big eraser. DIdn't know they had flat ones. Depending on the use a wire wheel or cup may last longer for that application.
  19. seattlejester
    Hmm it seems then that your problem was with my statement, I think that is fine. I thought everything else was really leading towards the right area , so was surprised at the comment. Honestly I don't know what to tell you, that is just how the pumps come unless you take them off of an OEM application. If you buy the pump itself it just comes with the threaded ports, no check valve. Most aftermarket suppliers will sometimes even offer the basic kit which provides the clamps and adapters to AN, but they still don't come with check valves. So no disassembly in my case, and most people who buy them, buy just the pump and not the assembly so they just don't get it with the check valve. I agree though you need to set your fuel system for your needs. I think you are choking the pump either on the output or the intake or both.
  20. seattlejester
    Hmm, while checking multiple sources is never a bad idea. I don't see anything wrong in this thread in the advice offered. All three of the responders are noting he is pulling too many amps. A single 044 pump should not pull that many amps under normal operation. Granted if both pumps are indeed running off the same wire that may be a problem. The ECU really only needs to trigger the surge tank pump, the carter pump can and should be triggered via accessory on so that it fills the surge prior to the other pump kicking on. The only thing that would be suspect are the suggestion to only use soldered connections, and my statement of the fuel pressure dropping with the 044 pump. Personally I would disagree with only using soldered connections. I think a good crimp connections is just as good if not better in certain situations. If you are referring to fuel pressure dropping being normal, it is. The 044 pump usually comes with a check valve to keep the pressure up. In aftermarket applications almost no one runs them. It is pretty common for the pressure to bleed down once the pump is off, or even between prime and crank.
  21. seattlejester
    ........... You are trying to run a pump that can support like 700hp through a 5/16 fuel line. Are you using the stock FPR? What is this on? Can you post a picture of your setup? Or at least the links to the parts you are using?
  22. seattlejester
    Off topic a bit, but real aircraft paint stripper will eat through paint like crazy. It really doesn't care how many layers you have there it will eat through all of it if you apply it on in gobs. Now the stuff is really really really bad for you, the legitimate stuff has a crazy long warning label that will paint a gruesome demise if you do not follow precautions. The cheaper spray on stuff I found doesn't do much other then remove a light coat of spray paint. Honestly roloc discs are pretty awesome if paint removal is your game. I am not sure how they do on rust, but they will eat everything else away except metal. They are pricey and you have oto have an adjustable speed grinder or else yo will blow the bristles off.
  23. seattlejester
    Yup, mine was similar. Cut it out to a shape that is easily replicable. Then spend some time making a piece to replace it. Given its location you can definitely have it be a bit bigger to overlap inwards. Notice a ton of overlap in my case. Then weld it in. My dog legs were bad as well, so I just trimmed off the square portion under it and replaced it with 18 gauge if I recall. You can see the lack of the rear wheel well flange as proof of that panel being replaced as well.
  24. seattlejester
    Dropping fuel pressure is fairly normal after the car is off. Without the pump energized it just kind of flows back through the impellers. That does seem like a wiring issue. Can you show us pictures of the connections? I fear you might be shorting it somewhere. Is it running in the cabin? Is it grommeted as it passes through the trunk floor? Alternatively it could be a plumbing issue. Are you returning to the surge tank? Are you dead heading the pump? What size are the fuel lines?
  25. seattlejester
    Honestly it seems like really only the lower panel is really troublesome. The area near the hinges has some slight surface rust which you can probably get away with a neutralizer and some sealing primer. You can order a patch panel for the outside, for the inside really it is just a matter of connecting pieces and sealing it against rust. You can cut out the bad metal and put in a flat piece like the guy did on project hugo, might add a bit of weight, but no one will see it. Back part of the wheel well can be done similarly as well cut out the piece, then get a flat sheet, bend it to fit the curvature, then tack it in, weld beads for strength, then seam seal for water tightness so water does not get kicked back up in that area. I guess the question is what the purpose of this car is. Is it a forever car, is it a driver, is it something you think you will sell down the road? What kind of repair could you live with? Will even the smallest bit of surface rust eat away at your conscience? If you don't repair it exactly like how it is will you never trust the strength of it?
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