seattlejester

You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power. Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later.

I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames.

Hmm if anything your flares look a little too low so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Your control arms almost look inverted which should indicate you are quite low. Is the sway bar hitting the tie rod by any chance? Did you add too much preload? If you add more then the corner weight you can raise the car. It looks like you have plenty of shock travel, so assuming the shock doesn't bottom out you could get rid of all the pre load and just wind the spring collar down, although I'm not a fan of that personally. The only thing else I can think of is what is your tire/rim size? Also is did you by chance just install it on one side? The sway bar will act as a torsion bar and will keep the strut from compressing if it is say stock suspension on the other side.

Did you by chance switch the front and rears?

Not with MS2, unless you got real creative, but even then you would basically be piggy backing the functionality. People have done it with an arduino, you could have megasquirt output the tach signal for the arduino or trigger different outputs at different RPM and just have the arduino output the correct square wave.

TTT ones are H-arm, AE are A-arm with toe link. The TTT ones are track width and toe adjustable on car, but there was some talk of binding and stress given how they achieve that. The AE ones similar to the ones made by several on the forum are only toe adjustable in the front instead of in the rear, I think there was discussion saying the front toe-link may be better for load path, but unsure, the rear toe link setup is nice because you don't have that kink like they do with the front toe link. The rear one looks to be non adjustable on car as in you would have to remove the spindle bolt to adjust it. Not really a problem once you have the track width set, but if you have to adjust that your alignment guy will be annoyed with you, my guy told me it was kind of a pain to get the tracking just right because you would have to disassemble the strut from the arm and check every half turn.

They have been advertising on the datsun parts facebook group. Haven't heard any feedback other than claims of how pretty they are.

My initial feeling would be that it would bend, during braking as you would be applying load on a long threaded piece. I'm curious what the experience has been.

One swap really isn't better then the other as you say. Each has its own merits. You are asking in the toyota section so your answers based on traffic is probably going to be a bit more biased honestly. Ask the same question in the V8 section and they will probably steer you towards staying or maybe even pointing out the merits in a newer ford or the LS motor. The only thing that makes me suggest otherwise is that you said you have always wanted to do a xjz, if you are the type of person that won't settle for less then what you want, then better to just head towards what your end game is off the bat. If you have the means, I would just have a set of custom mounts made up. It really is not difficult for any decent fabricator. Tell them you want the engine level, and you want the tube style mount with the bushings. I'm not sure what boots you are referencing, the bolts maybe? I'm using hardware acquired in the states for the most part. There are lots of designs out there if you go with custom. The only reason I went with the CX mounts were because they seemed to be the easy route and similar to what I had with the 7m. If I had the space I would have just done my own, but that was at a premium. I really wouldn't want to tear apart the sc300 if it runs and drives. Keep it running and driving, do the upgrades to that, and when the time comes swap it all over, it seems like your chassis may have a bit of a ways to go. The SC300 also has a nicer differential selection, CV axles, disc brakes on all 4 corners, double wishbone suspension if I'm not mistaken, power steering, etc. If I had a whole donor car, I'd be tempted to bring quite a bit of that with me.

Goodness, that was a long sentence lol. (Organize your thoughts, and try to just get the main point across, save your musings and thoughts for a build thread) If you are content with modifying slowly, always wanted the 2jz, have a complete running donor car, then it might be worth it to go down that path. Then again if you already have a fully functional car, swapping the drive train into another chassis seems a bit of a hassle if you don't have an end game planned.

Stream of consciousness stuff is good for story telling, but makes for a very long post. Your basic question is you planned on a sbf swap, have the kit for it. You found your way into an SC300 with the W58. Should you change gears and go 2jz. You have time and effort invested. You probably are going to have to account for some other things that will pop up that you are not considering, jumping into another engine swap may be problematic. 350-400hp out of a JZ is going to require boost, which in turn means ECU, probably better trans then the W58, turbo and manifold, not including all the other bits. It also sounds like you are farming out quite a bit of work? That can be costly. If the 2jz is the swap you have always wanted to do, then it would be better to change gears now rather than later. If HP is your end goal then you already have progress towards a swap that will be able to reach that goal.

Honestly it depends on what type of intake manifold you are going to go with and the size of your intercooler. An adapter plate really lets you run whatever you want. I will say the consensus is to steer clear of the ebay throttle bodies. People have posted problems with idle and such and found the throttle blade had warped and wrapped around the shaft. Any large displacement engine will have an adequate throttle body. The Lexus V8's have a pretty good one and even have a TPS. Really the throttle body doesn't need to be bigger then the size of your intercooler piping, getting one bigger then your intercooler piping will be a bit of a waste as you will have to couple down to the intercooler pipe size and the increased pressure when you go off the throttle will have a nice kind of restriction that will cause it to inflate somewhat. 2.5 inch intercooler pipe size has an aerodynamic drag (I think that is the term) at about 400+ hp, so if you are going to 2.75 inch piping you still won't really need anything bigger than a 80mm throttle body. 4-500 hp is a pretty stupid amount of power. I am on the verge of regretting mine, can't go anywhere near the fun part of the power band if it is cold or anything approaching damp.

Very very cool, kind of coming together from all over!

If you are unhappy with the progressive springs, maybe consider just swapping to a linear one? The KYB shocks are actually pretty comfortable and even with spirited driving it does a pretty good job of damping higher frequencies. I really enjoyed my tokico linear springs with the kyb shocks. I think what you are describing is what they consider the extreme kit pretty much. Granted for at least the 240z the extreme has travel that will beach the car on standard sized tires. I think the consensus is not to go much higher than 5k as you are doing. With chassis flex coming into play if you play around with much higher rates. I don't know if it is the shock or the spring (I'm guessing the shock), the car uses a LOT of its travel even when maxed out on adjustment. On a big dip or hard acceleration I could hear the car scrub the tire and I swear I could feel it lock the wheel from rotating. I ended up raising the car above the height I had with the linear springs and kyb shocks. I now have 2 fingers in the back whereas I used to have 1 with my old combo. Car doesn't catch anymore, but the dampers don't feel that great.

I will point out all drivetrains have weaknesses. The 2jz has its own share: FMS, oil pump, RMS, oil pan torque, thrust bearing a few among most likely more. Even with a real good engine you can always have assembly error with incorrect timing belt length, incorrectly seated o-rings, poorly installed seals, etc. Make sure to factor in a basic check into your budget, pulling bearings, checking seals, chasing threads.

It kind of depends. In the end it is about the shock and getting a good quality spring. AZ ones have kind of been a secret, but you can get pretty much anything you want with a GC setup that fits. Koni race shocks are popular, I've heard of some others using ohlins (sp?) shocks for circuits. The off the shelf models I wouldn't really think of using for serious track driving (cx, megan, stance, BC) they don't really allow for good enough damping control at least in lighter cars from what I've found. Feal does offer rebuilds with more quality components, but depending on your use they may still be inadequate. I guess it boils down to what kind of racing?

I really wasn't thinking too much. New Zed is on the money. The thermostat should stay closed until it reaches the mechanical point where it opens at which you found at 170. That should mean the coolant in the engine should always be at 170 or so in theory or the thermostat wouldn't be open. The sender should sit right under the thermostat so when it until it opens it should be seeing 170, if it drops that means the thermostat is open, but still at 170. Short of it sticking open when opened causing it to bypass the function of the thermostat, bypassing via another mechanism, or the sender going bad, hard to really imagine what is going on. Interesting though, you have a pusher and a puller? That seems like it would take up a lot of room. Nice little picture in there. Without the internal bypass of some sort the coolant would stagnate. Is your heater routed in that fashion? Or do you just have an inlet and an outlet in line?

Well a really long adapter might can act as a heat sink, but it shouldn't cause that much of a difference unless it is sticking way out there or getting a lot of air or something to keep it cooler then the coolant. How's the fuel mixture? Oil smell like gas? If you are running really rich all the time that may be a small factor. Does the fan have its own temp probe? Or is it taking the signal from the one sender? A well sorted system can stay pretty cool. I know my intercooler is cold to the touch on hot days if I've been running for a while. If you got an oversized radiator with a high FPI count you just might be cooling it a bit more then you expect. I think when I had my L28 it sat around halfway on the gauge which looks like it is at 180 or so. That was with a champion 2 row radiator with e-fans and no shroud. I could imagine with a shroud and an extra row of cooling with more FPI it might have sat lower.

Missed this the first time around. Appreciate the nominations. If needed I would be happy to help out in anyway I can, granted I think there are many who are more knowledgeable and more likely level headed then I am. Names that come to mind, newzed, miles, nigel, andyandthesea (sp?), rturbo 930, chickenman, rebekahsz (sp?).

I had to add some washers to the passenger to "push" the engine a bit over to the driver side in addition to lowering the driver side. Just a word of preperation, drilling through that thick of stainless was real bad. I burned out a bit and another one I took it extra slow and only made a 2mm dent. Would you like a 45 degree elbow and some 4 inch clamps? I bought it for my BW turbo only to find they downsized the SX-E model by 1/2 an inch and the shipping back would have killed the price of the refund.

Congrats on getting it in the bay. I definitely did not like the shift, you can work a little bit of it out with swapping plates and inverting them, but it is still really apparent. Does your turbo by chance use the 4 inch inlet?

That is a very small surge tank.

First off welcome to the forums. 2nd, we don't really use the word best here, in fact it is a forum rule/guideline take a minute and peruse it, you will find a more intelligent discussion if you can phrase the question more precisely. One could make a numerical argument for something over the other, but best is a matter of opinion and is highly subject on purpose, use, budget, place in life, location, etc etc etc. There really is no best, semantically there can not be a best of two options, one can only be better then the other, once again still highly subject. They are very different engines that deliver power differently, it will be up to you to decide what you want. An LS3 could probably be pushed to 400 or so HP NA I imagine. Linear torque curve and all. The 2jzgte can hit 400 on the stock twins which are a sequential setup, a 2jzge NA-T could hit 400hp with a small single turbo. An LS3 swap may be easier to start, as the 2jz option only has one really good option for an off the shelf kit, which will set you back quite a bit more compared to an LS swap kit. The 2jz can be easier to add hp depending on your turbo selection and injector size it would be a matter of turning up the boost. Where as on the LS you might have to start considering forced induction if the power bug hit you. Does it have to be manual? The 2jz manual options can be pricey. The V160/161 occupying over half of your budget with a good clutch. The CD009 while being much cheaper is still quite a bit in the conversion/adapting hardware. The R154 while also substantially cheaper with upgrades and a twin disc is still a good amount of your budget. The W58 can be a very cheap option, but also is known for not holding too much torque and power, not really a long term option. Easiest I imagine would be going from chevy to chevy. Someone else might be able to chime in regarding the mounts and stuff between a 350 and an LS. Any reason you don't want to push the 350 to 400hp? That seems like a lot of money to save a bit of weight with the LS if that was the route to go. I imagine new heads, different intake, maybe even a supercharger or blower would put you in that range with very minimal work.

I'm used to seeing higher numbers, but as many have said if they are all the same and the car is not burning oil, coolant, etc, then not much to worry about. If you are on the fence of going 2jz and you need a reason, this really isn't a great one, but I have seen worse (I did mine because of a bad relay and leaking rear main seal).

What we have so far.... "My fuel system is Tank>>Fram G3 fuel filter>>Carter Fuel Pump (wired to my EZ Wiring kit, no relay, 14 gauge wire)>>External Surge Tank with submerged Bosch 044 (Wired to the MS Relay Board)>> Engine>> External Surge Tank>> Tank." What we really need to know: Flow: Stock tank > hose (size) > Fram G3 fuel filter > hose (size) > Carter Fuel pump > hose (size) > external surge tank (model, link, picture) > inlet mechanism (sock, fitting, sump) > bosch 044 pump > hose (3/16) > fuel rail in (fitting size) > fuel rail > fuel rail out (fitting size) > hose (size) > aeromotive fpr inlet (fitting size) > aeromotive fpr > aeromotive outlet (fitting size) > hose (size) > surge tank > hose (size) > fuel tank. Vent: Then we need to know the vent situation. The surge tank should have a vent, and the fuel tank should have a vent. Then the electrical. What Hud brings up is interesting. If the bosch 044 pump is blowing the fuse and not working and your fuel rail is only showing 10psi, you might be seeing the carter pump pushing fuel. The problem with that then is the surge tank is not doing what it should be doing if you are generating pressure that means you are filling up the surge and pushing fuel past the bosch pump which shouldn't happen, it should just be returning to the fuel tank.