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Everything posted by CruxGNZ
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Haha! I bet you could hear his ego crash along with his thoughts of winning the race. Good story . Nothing like beating a car worth many times more than yours (in money that is), especialy when the driver is clueless . !M!
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RacerX will probably chime in on this. !M!
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Taking out rear suspension
CruxGNZ replied to Georgia Flash's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Also, when you put them back in make sure you put them in the correct way. The indent is not in the center of the pin. To prevent the pin from getting stuck in case of future suspension removal, put anti-sneeze (sieze) liberally on the pin. !M! -
Monoball Housing for Camber Plate
CruxGNZ replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Larry, When I was thinking about making my own camber plates, Pegasus (right down the street from me) had the parts to make them. Give the catalog a look here . !M! -
Taking out rear suspension
CruxGNZ replied to Georgia Flash's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I had to cut mine and have the pieces pressed out also. The new pin was only available at the Nissan dealer. The cost was about $35 for the pin. Wierd thing is the other side of the rear suspension gave me no problems at all, just lightly tapped the pin out. !M! -
what do you guys think about these
CruxGNZ replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Those are the same wheels I have, but on mine the split spokes are powdered coated white. I needed to run adaptors with those wheels. !M! -
Well, I have a different story on the Del Sol's. A freind of mine has one that is VERY quick for a Honda. It is far from stock though. It has NO interior except 2 seats, that's it no radio or nothin'. I forget what he did to the engine, but had a lot of internal work done and a crap load of Mugen stuff. No turbo, no nitrous, just all motor. Suspension was set up for road racing and had slicks on. He took me for a ride when it was all finished. First thing I noticed when I shut the door is how tinny it was with no sound deadening, no door panels and no carpet. Started it up and you could hear that he had a wild cam, it was like the 4 banger would start, then stop for a split second then start again, sounds really funny (whew....whew....whew ect.) Takes me out on the road and this thing is WAY to loud. We had trouble talking over all the exaust noise and road noise, definetly not a street car. He floors this thing from a stop light and HOLY crap! Not kidding you, this is a solid 12 second car! Suprised the heck out of me. After he hit fourth gear I started to get a bit scared, I mean that quick in a tin can? You would be too. If he blew out a tire or something, it would have been a really bad outcome. I don't know why these guys go to such extremes to obtain decent acceleration. This car was really just a shell with some wheels and an engine attatched to it, that's it. But hey, to each thier own. !M!
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Anywhere we can see more pictures/specs of that bad@ss? Nice work by the way !M!
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You guys are just having trouble seeing the forrest because the trees are in the way. !M!
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Nice . !M!
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I think you just wanted to make everybody get off thier butt and look at thier tools . Larry, I can't wait to see pictures . !M!
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I was into mechanical engineering and did some architectural engineering work with AutoCAD, but no degree. I just wasn't into sittin' on my butt all day playing with a computer. So I stayed in construction building things with my hands. !M!
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Owen, Yes I would make the box out of 3/4" particle board or MDF then pour resin on the box and brush it around. It will end up maybe 1/16" thick. This will adhere to the box just fine if you use particle board, because it's porous. There is not really any need for the glass fiber, unless you plan on making the layer of resin really thick for some reason. If you want the same effect on MDF, you should scuff up the surface some with 120 grit sandpaper. Sorry Owen no pictures to share . I should have took pictures of some of the setups I made. I was just happy to see the look on the persons face when they saw the work. Actually, I think I may have a picture of the setup I made for my CRX. I'll have to see if I can dig it up. Man was that thing tight, 2 10" subs and a 12" sub in that car. Man that thing THUMPED ! !M!
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What I have done and works very well is after you have the built the box, pour fiberglass resin on and brush it around. This will make a nice smooth non-porous finish. Then lightly sand it, prime and paint. I find a gloss finish looks the best. My buddy and I did this on a box for his truck. He had 4 10"'s in his '87 Dodge Dakota (sacrificed a lot of legroom) and we went a step further on his box. We resin'd the inside of the box as well and painted it the same color as his truck. We then put 3/4" plexiglass over the front and installed the speakers. Inside we installed hidden blue neon lights. This looked really trick! Also, MDF (medium density fiber board) and particle board are two different materials, but very similar. This is just me, but you can use 3/4" MDF (which is pretty heavy) or you can use 3/4" particle board and put a couple coats of fiberglass resin on the inside to help stiffen it up, then put some pillow stuffing inside. Any car audio guys please correct me if I am wrong in doing this. !M!
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"Finding an unmanned computer as he arrived at the police station for his hearing, the man decided to test the good humor of the court by sneaking into the database." Unmanned computer and nobody around to see this guy messing around with it? Sounds like someone wasn't doing thier job . Messing with my record sounds like something I would do given the chance . !M!
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Whoa! I think you guys are being a little harsh. Maybe flylikeaneagle wants to learn how to swap an engine or fabricate things on a car that you really don't care much about. It may just be a learning experience. Give him a break. I'm not sure what the engine code is in the Eagle Summit, but find out and then go to a Mitsubshi web site and tell them what you want to do. That would be a good start. Oh yeah, WELCOME ! Usually you will find good information and help for all kinds of stuff here. This site is mostly for Z cars, but I'm sure there is a good handfull of members here willing to help you out. Flylikeaneagle you are only 35-45 minutes away from me, so if you ever need a hand feel free to drop me a line. !M!
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HAHAHA!!! I've done the same thing! Just a few months ago my uncle and I were doing some drywall work for a comercial job in a strip mall. I was using an adjustable scaffold and it was set at just under 6 ft. so my head would clear the metal ribs holding up the roof. My uncle would hand me up the sheets and I would put them up and then I would grab a hold of the ribs above me and scoot myself to the side (the scaffold had wheels). I guess I just got to comfortable up there and walked right off the side... as I was falling, one foot pushed the scaffold out of the way and into the wall making a lot of noise and bringing this to the attention of my uncle just in time to see me fall on my shoulder and side. The thought never crossed my mind to just grab one of those ribs above me . My uncle was giving me crap about it for the next few days. He kept repeating what I said when I fell. I'm a big Simpsons fan so I (in my best Chief Wiggum voice) was saying, "Man down, man down!". Ah, it was funny though. !M!
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Those 350Z's move pretty good. When I was in Vegas last week, a guy with a gold one taped it from the stop lights on the strip. It sounds really nice! The exaust note is pretty cool at high RPM's and it moved pretty good. He didn't go very fast, only touched second gear for a couple seconds, but still very impressive. !M!
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Hahah! That picture is great. In the producers eyes maybe, little people bring big ratings? Yeah, bring back the Family Guy! That show was awsome! !M!
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Why would someone do that? Very risky. Is there a body laying below burnt from the power lines? ... !M!
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That was great! To bad he can't drive it at night.... forwards anyways, well... if you see the video, you will know what I mean. !M!
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Well, I think I'm going to sway my buddy to a MK Diamond wet saw. It's a little more than he wanted to spend, but it will last with no problems. I can't help but to laugh when I read about the guy talking about his wifes experience with the Chicago tool. "My wife was using this stupid thing today, and her hair got caught in the vent holes for the motor, her hair got wound up in the motor, and because the switch is just an on/off switch (Really a stupid idea for a power tool!!)" --as opposed to what an off/off switch ? Just the mental picture of this little tool catching her hair and zipping up and hitting her in the face is just funny as heck ! Mike, What do you charge for tile work down in Texas? Just curious. Up here I charge $8-$20 a sq. ft. for labor (including prep work) depending on the type of tile used (ceramic, marble, ect.) and the pattern (if any) involved. By the way my MK saw has had NO problems in the 12 years that I've had it. I highly recomend them. I've never used a Porter Cable wet saw though.
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Well, so far I'm 50/50 with Chicago tools. I did a little more searching and came up with the same thing... you get what you pay for. For a couple of hundred bucks more, I can sell my buddy on a small MK Diamond wet saw, it's small, but it will suit him well. I'm not knocking Chicago, for I've never tried that brand before. From what I understand, Chicago is the equivalent of Sears or Black and Decker (not the best, but they work). I deal with all sorts of power tools and the little guys that aren't built well tend not to last very long under my use, so I buy better brands that I have used over the years and have stood up to A LOT of punishment. The only thing I would hate is to have my buddy say to someone, "yeah, my buddy that builds houses for a living sold me on this piece of @%!$, shows what he knows." I never had anyone bad mouth my advice or had any callbacks on any work that I have done and am damn proud of that. It's the right tools that make your work look better and get done faster. Checking on Chicago tools is just my way of not giving out bad advice. But like I said, right now I'm 50/50 with them. Just out of mild curiousity, has anyone purchased a Chicago wet saw? Also, does anyone have anything else to say about Chicago tools? !M!
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In the last harbor frieght catalog I spotted a decent wet saw for cutting tile made by Chicago. So, I wanted to find out who Chicago tools were. I have a very nice MK Diamond wet saw, but my buddy keeps borrowing mine and those diamond blades (the good ones) aren't cheap. I was going to try and persuade him to buy a Chicago brand wet saw, but now I'm not sure, because they are "poorly made China crap" or so I'm told. While looking for Chicago tools info I came across this guy that is ready to blame anyone because his wife is stupid. Everyone knows that if you have long hair and it could get in the way, you should put it up or put a hat on or do something with it! "My wife was using this stupid thing today, and her hair got caught in the vent holes for the motor, her hair got wound up in the motor, and because the switch is just an on/off switch (Really a stupid idea for a power tool!!) the cutout tool slammed in to her face and she has got a nasty bruise on her cheek. If this is the way Chicago Power Tools designs their merchandise, then I don't want anything to do with this company. Poorly designed tool, one that their only concern was to make money, because it surely wasn't designed around safety. I am trying to find their website to let them know about this oversight and stumbled across this one...BE CAREFUL!!!" I have just one web site for this guy and his stupid wife right here . Just thought you guys would get a kick out of it. !M!