hoov100

Hit up craigslist or the classifieds, I'm sure you can get both fenders in nice shape for under $200.

It could mean the difference between life or death. Imagine a 5000 pound SUV hitting that main hoop dead on or just to the left, if something hits it, it's most likely going deform around it by about at least 6 inches depending on speed. Now who is sitting right in that spot? most likely you, or someone you care about is driving. what is going to happen when you're legs are pinched against the trans tunnel and the car is still pushing you're upper torso into the passenger side of the car? what if you're daughter/wife/GF/sister/brother...etc is sitting in the passenger seat and it gets hit on the passenger side? what if you get rear ended hard enough in traffic, to the point where you are pinched between two cars and the rear car crushes the chassis enough to push the cage forward and crush you? You're seriously neglecting you're own personal safety and the safety of anyone riding in the car with that mentality.

check you're u-joints. Also could be, you have to much backlash between the ring and pinion.

I run a strait line off my compressor tank to everything and have had no problem with any of my air tools, ever. I'm sure it wears them out faster, but I don't think you would notice the difference.even the nitrogen bottle at the track is set to 150psi.

Ebay is most likely going to be you're best bet, or a local hydraulic/tubing shop might be able to hook you up. also braided AN lines arent necessarily the strongest. (but damn good looking)

Just remove the regulator. air tools require CFM rather then PSI if you catch my drift. a regulator is more for paint spray guns then anything. Put simply, the regulator is killing the total amount of air, that can pass through it.

Use a penny and about 5-6 layers of electrical tape. Works every time...

Now that I think of it, the later 280z's MIGHT have had cast aluminum wheels, I might have to do a little research on it later.

There all steelies with different hubcaps, as far as I know up until the 280zx.

One thing that wasn't mentioned in this thread yet, is that roll cage padding is designed to lessen the blow WITH a helmet. I have hit my head on roll cage tubing with and without padding to know how awesome roll bar padding is.

Whoops, double post...

I wouldn't be worried about that, as much as I would be, about how far away the hoop is from the door. A roll bar i intended to prevent things from hitting the occupants in the event of a crash and to prevent the car from collapsing in on the driver. The main hoop can't protect you very well, if you're shoulders/body stick out past it.

Since the LS1 is made by chevy and you're tank most likely came from a camaro, I would assume that you would want a fuel level gauge for a chevy. do a little google searching on the ohm ratings for the ls1 level sender and match it up with one of the autometer units. Also autometer offers a couple fuel level gauges that are adjustable.

Give crowers technical support a call and see how much they would charge for a custom billet cam for an L-series.

A competent cam regrinder should be able to convert mm to inches without much of a problem. All that I have heard of, when it comes to cams breaking, is when you either go to far with the regrind, or the cam itself is a poor batch with casting and material flaws. there are three cam companies that I would trust with a regrind or new cam. isky, crower and comp. those three have been around a LONG time. (I've seen and heard alot about newer comp cam, cams going flat recently though)

You could go mad max style and put a couple blocks of C4 next to you're gas tank with a self destruct switch.

mazworx still sells the adapter plates and does the bellhousing machining. http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2770

If you have an electric fuel pump, you could always put a kill switch on the relay and hide it somewhere in the interior. My personal favorite it to use the switch on the dome light.

Never had a problem either, just piece of mind, knowing it's not going to come apart at 8000RPM (again)

I know there are many different opinions on the subject, but it is usually a good idea to go a few hundred miles, before putting any serious load on it. Whenever I break in an engine that I want to last, I always take it easy for the first oil change, then go through and re-torque the head studs and check the torque on the mains and rod bolts, while giving everything internally a good visual inspection.

Why are you going WOT on a motor that only has 100 miles on it?

I always thought it was a metal line in the tank. you could always pull your fuel level sender and use a bright flashlight and do a visual inspection.

throwing caution and common sense to the wind, just run you're exhaust under the tank. Or you could add a wide fuel cell which would give you plenty of room for mufflers and you wouldn't have to worry about heat as much.

Taking the time to proof read you're statements and make sure everything typed is understandable and clear, will help us to help you.

I thought they where real, until it showed his head next to them.