hoov100

the problem is, there is the black dash pad is secured to a heavy metal frame which is what attaches it to the body. now you can ditch the dash pad and run the frame only but its uglier then hell.

also take some bondo and fill in the cracks and then smooth it, if its a good enough dash wanna make another one and sell it?

you know they sell fiberglass dash's right? as for the bolts 2 on the bottom and 4 on top would work, but you still have the screws that hold the cover on the top. i would recommend the fiberglass dash and Zeus fasteners as that would be the most simple and less time consuming then trying to make a custom doo-hickey dash out of the stock one.

I've got one (alot actually) this was early this year, brand new to ft bliss, had a parking lot covered in about half and inch of sand, being my R1 already has traction issues i figured i would try some motor GP style drifting. So i suit up get on the bike and using my knee to hold myself proceed to do some formula D stuff on my basically new R1 and while i am doing this my battalion commander and brigade CSM happen to stop by to see the atraction, well once the back tire died and i called it quits i had a little talk with my chain-o-command well needless to say i did 45 days of extra duty and i am personally in charge of motorcycle affairs and safety for the brigade until further notice. gotta love life.

I have one question, would you wear gloves while making love to a woman? I'm being serious about that too, I love the feel of grease on my hands, lets me know i have accomplished something.

how much you looking to spend?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/cto/1096453863.html pull the motor and everything you need and sell the roller.

I'm not 100% positive, but dont autometer gauges work with stock GM sending units? this might be a question for google.

Find a registered importer and ask them, or call up US customs and ask, either way its an america only car, so there should be no problem bringing it back in. IMHO

come on man, with all of the work you have done to your car you are going to let a few hours of work to make something properly work keep you from doing it?

i want your job...

i thought it was, rifles, used mag's pistols used clips and machine guns used drums?

when is it this year?

no 30 round extended clip for the taurus?

as lame as it sounds, my parents should be driving my z to MSA this year.

no, his entire car is built, if memory serves central florida turbo built and tuned that car damn well and he was running high 9's last time i seen his thread.

supporting 400 and making 400 are vastly different things. and do my research? i have owned 5-6 z31's in the past 5 years, ontop of the fact that i have been around z's my entire life. i KNOW what it takes to get power out of a z31 and take a helluva lot more then you think, like i said, it takes more then a boost and a tune to make power. lets do a cost estimate for a stock internal'd vg30et this is to say make a low balling 300WHP at 13psi. 1: gutted plenum runs around $300 2: 240sx 60MM TB ran for around $70 last time i checked. 3: nistune, with all the required nistune stuff is $530 4: wideband and gauge innovate motorsports XD-16 retails for $375 5: hotter/colder plugs and bigger wires with a MSD blaster coil, $136 6: cheap-o ebay generic intercooler kit, $300 plus whatever misc elbows and piping you need. 7: turbo, garette GT35R (holset's dont like large boost #'s) around $1100 8: timing belt kit, with new water pump, seals, tensioners,..etc around $400 9: down pipe for the turbo $200 10: wastegate (because boost spikes kill) $300 for a quality used one (TIAL, greddy..etc) 11: cheap BOV around $150 total= $3861 building a fast car or high HP dyno queen never is and never will be cheap, if you want something you can build cheaply go buy a honda. and that is about what you need to PROPERLY boost it.

http://www.postalthings.com/right_hand_drive_kits.htm

thats not uncommon for cheap rural postal vehicles, as buying an actual RHD jeep from the dealer can be a little expensive at times. do a search on RHD jeep conversion kit and you will see what i mean.

manual transmissions dont use computers on a carb'd engine with a distributor. only sensor you should need is the back up light switch and if you want to run a speedo, the speedo sensor.

drop the turbo motor in that red porsche. then put the porsche motor in the z! also dont forget to mention the headlight covers!

what about going with a dual TB's on your original design?

i would have to disagree with the above post about it being cheaper to get power out of, now anyone can turn up the boost, but when you start making anything over 300HP you have to start looking at building a motor.

200zr came with the RB, all others had the VG. google images pwns you. If i had to choose between a vg30et or the sr20det, SR hands down for me, the aftermarket for the SR is just there and the VG30et's just isnt.

ok, i am about to swap in an autometer electric speedo, now it comes time to buy the speed sensor that goes with it. I have no clue what to get when it comes to a speed sensor. right now i am using the stock speedo which is proving very innacurate. anyone have any insight?