bobbyc

i have some stubs from my R180...they have a bolt in the middle too...if this is what you are lookin for shoot me a PM

i've painted a decent number of pieces...and i always apply the base...let it flash, then tack it and apply clear...never had any issues. is that the clear coat? it looks like spray patter is too narrow and held too far away. i would also suggest about a 50% overlap with each pass.

just to give you a heads up...you are lookin for a 280 switch, the right side clocked up a bit on the 280...where the 240 is straight across...your steering column cover, and even the plugs...won't work with a 240 switch.

dad had a 72 240z, 78 280z, uncle had a 83 280zx, i had an 81 280zx, 73 240z, and now a 72 240z. when my mom was pregnant with me, she and my dad were in a wreck in the 78 that totaled it, and when i was 4 i was riding home in the 83 280zx with my uncle when he fell asleep on the highway. luckily we spun out into the median but i remember it ripping a couple wheels off.

hey man...didn't recognize the SN but i recognize the garage : )....i'm off today...if you are give me a ring...i'll find some time to get away and stop by for a few to get it all wired up.

i towed my z about 400 miles with my xterra...and towed the most recen z with a 3rd gen 4runner with the 3.4....both did just fine and are solid cars for normal driving as well.

before the pipes were welded and BOV flange welded on.

my MMS brackets were cast too...on the site they look machined.

you could also more than likely use something like the palm of your hand and just push up on the dent...through the headliner. there is nothing between the headliner and the roof skin. removing it's kind of a pain because it's foam backed and glued to the roof.

here's mine...SS run front to rear here's the rear

~$1000 are the wheels and tires.

i've had a z without heat...i do live in an area where it gets cold...scraping ice off the inside of the windshield is no fun....id clean it with bleachreinstall, and call it a day.

i don't think a check valve is needed...there is going to be fuel returned to the surge tank...it's always going to take the path of least resistance...and a free flowing line back into the fuel tank will be the route it takes....although i don't think that is your problem. how are your lines routed...this is mine and i have no problem building 50+ psi. i used a summit something like 90gph 15 psi pump....and the walbro 255lph feeding the rail. the walbro picks up from the bottom of the surge, the feed, return from rail, and overflow to the tank are at the top.

the rocker does go under the dog leg and is spot welded under there...my fender lips as well as dog leg area was all rusted out...so i got new quarter panelsfor the rear, as well as new rockers...mine had to come all the way undone so replacement isn't too difficult. here's a pic of the pieces under the dogleg area. this is the piece of metal sandwiched betweeen the outer and inner rocker, and the piece below is the inner rocker. i'm using these pieces to repair my z...they will be blasted and coated with por15.

if you have a mess you are trying to cover up it'd be an option...if it's clean i would just leave it. it looks clean! i'd leave it.

i have the hx53 on my z...i few others are running them...i had to create a spacer to get it to fit...the cold side is too big so it would hit the exhaust manifold and i couldn't just bolt it up.

i've used a $15 harbor freight gun for everything, primer to clear...it's worked perfect. it may not be the most efficient or have the best atomization...but i've sprayed metallics with no mottling and then cleared with the same gun....it was smooth enough i didn't even have to sand.

i've been searching both here and google...who sells these besides nos japan and possible ebay finds?

that is one amazing clean z!

use gloves with super clean...it'll eat the skin off your hands!

no rust huh...i might have to check that one out!

yeah...we'll see...if she's witch and does that then i'll fix it my self....my wife was in the car with me...along with our 2 little ones. i'm gonna stop by some shops in the morning and see what they say. i have heard of these poly bumper repair places, if that's the case i can get the dents out, wet sand, mist and clear the whole thing, keeping the original paint on the sides so no blending into the quarter needed.

auto w/ 3.3 is 5,000, manual is 3500, plus about 1500lbs over a CR-V...i knew the weight was close and didn't expect it to be a rocket...i was only stating that the xterra is more vehicle with a possibly comparable load and it wasn't much fun...AC had to be left off!

i was approaching a light, light turns yellow...it's an intersection with the cameras, speed limits 45 so i get on the brakes pretty good and stop for the light. the lady behind me wanted to go on through the light and wasn't able to stop in time. luckily it wasn't a bad accident...and everyone's ok. i'm pretty meticulous with this car...it's my baby...along with the z. anyway, here's a pic of the damage, nothing significant, but definately noticable. it made some nice indents in the bumper from the screws for her front plate. she was a nice lady, appologized, we traded info and were on our way. she was playing down the damage, i know it's minor, but the car is mint other wise, so this new small blemish definatetl bugs me. i know a lot of other motorist would shrug their shoulders and be thankful their appliance wasn't hurt any worse. being an enthusiast...it makes this situation completely different...i think.

he was hooked up just to the right of the engine...but he was literally just laying on the ground and drug behind the jet car.