EMWHYR0HEN

hey Chris, i didnt know you had a Q45 tb.. also, do you have a Z32 Maf? you might want to look into getting an AFC.

looks good. My guess is that exhaust tip comes from some kind of sport bike exhaust....? is it smaller in diameter than the piping itself?

yeah, I could but then i'd need new engine/ tranny mounts and drive shaft. Still, I dont think it would be enough to put a bar straight across. I think i'd have to get a greddy intake manifold or go ITB's. Maybe sometime in the future, but right now for a broke college student, no can do... i'll post pix of my finished product

I'm just building the front part right now, i'm still going to build towards the fire wall later.

Thanks for the inut. pop, I cant go over the engine, my intake manifold almost touches the hood! I know a straight bar would be the EASIEST and STONGEST way to go, but as you can see, I'm unable to do that. So I ditched the core support bars and came up with this: I'll use the 3/4 '' bar that i was going to use on the core to support the straight bar. Then, i'll use the 1/2'' bar and TRY to fit it going straight. its going to ve a VERY tight fit.

Well initially I was planning on NOT extending the bars from the towers to the core support. I do have plans on putting bars also to the fire wall, this is just the front part that i'm working on now. Are the bars going to the core suport worth keeping? Also, woulD I get the same effctive strength if I heated and pounded the bar to a flatter shape, Or if I slotted the bar down the middle and slide a flat peice down the slot? like this:

I'm making a STB for the front of my car. I know it may seem that a STB is an easy fab, but I had to think about the design a little bit more in my application and I just need a little help with some issues. Here's what I came up with. I used 4130 chro-mo 1/8 inch plate (colored in blue) for the 2 plates on top of the strut towers, and also on the core support. For the main bars I used 4130 chro-mo 3/4 '' O.D. .058 wall (colored in red), and 4130 chro-mo 1/2'' O.D. .065 wall for main bar support (colored in green) well my first issue is that bar # 3 (the bar the connects the 2 bars on each strut tower) will slighty hit one side the valve cover (next to the oil cap) becasue the engine is angled. So should I bend it? or cut the bar into 2, shape the angle I need and tig it back together? The next thing that i'm unsure of is how bar # 1 and 2 will be welded to the plates. (the white crap displays the welds, above pic) cross section like this: (the green = welds) As you can see not alot of area from the tube will be welded to the plate. I haven't welded anything together yet, so i'm open to any sugestions, changes, opinions.... any help is appreciated.

well that explains why wheels are soo dahm expensive...

I know this isn't exactly what your looking for, but here's a pic w/o bumper but large fog lights. If i remember, the Mustang in "Gone in 60 Seconds" had round fog lights close together? anyway just to give you an idea these are made by Hella and are 7.40'' x 3.5'' w/ H3 bulb. Check out rallylights.com they have a great selection of high qulity stuff.

somethings wrong with the fuel pump wiring. If you ground the wire thats going to the fuel pump does it come on? Im assuming that you hooked up the pump sp that the positive is continuous power and a ground switches it on.

The classic Z's are no where near comparable for todays modern cars....Stock Vs. Stock. Thankfully, they were almost designed to be played with and when enough time and money is put in, I think the Z can cause a threat in all kinds of competitions. I don't know of many cars from the 70's that can do that. From a drivers standpoint, you just cant get the same feeling of raw sportiness in a new car than you can in a Z.

If you have the hump on the timing cover you have the late model RB25 w/vtc, not the neo motor which is different. Also, you should have 2 relays on the engine harness and a plug for the ignitor. I think you were given the wrong harness, or someone chopped it clean. good luck

Where does that bastard live again?

would have offered you help sooner but rarely come to the Rb forum now.. anyway, Okay so you got it cranking. in order to start the engine, you need: Power. make sure the ECU, MAF, CAS, all six coilpacks, and the ignitor are getting power. If all of those check, then check if fuel is being passed through the fuel rail ( you can actually hear the fuel when the fuel pump turns on). Last, VISUALLY check to see if there is spark from the plugs by pulling the coil packs and putting a plug in it. Have a friend crank the engine when you check for spark. if they all check ok, then it should fire. let us know if it doesnt.

Parts avilibility isn't a BIG factor. I can't think of one thing that's different from an RB25DE and DET. Intake/exhause manifolds, cams, spockets, clutch/fly, water/oil pump, etc.. the parts are all interchangable. The only drawback I see the the PRICE of the parts becuase there is no reference to the RB in the states so all parts would come form over seas.

dude this is post a picture of your tool not your girlfriend! j/k. i'd have to say my fav tool is a TIG welder, even though I dont have one....

I have to agree w/ zmanco. Oh, and don't use a zx master with drums.

So I guess it wouldnt be worth it to change over to a vented rotor, maybe i'll just rig up some vents for my track days and consider some willwoods in the future. Jon, I remember reading a post where you mentioned going with the wilwoods, but peicing your own kit instead of the AZC. Mind sharing your setup?

I Finally had time to change out my master back to the 7/8, and Wow what a difference it made. The pedal effort was good again, and the car actually felt like it was stopping. after some hard braking, I got out of the car and felt each rim to observe the temp ( I didnt have a temp gun and no i wasnt gonna touch the rotor and drum!) the rears felt just about the same temp as the fronts. So im pretty sure my brakes are working properly now. However, im still not satisfied with the braking capabilities with 4x4 soild powerslot rotor and KVR pads and braided line all around. By the way, anyone know the rotor size of the vented 4x4 compared to the solid?

lookin good man.

sweet, what size and offset wats are those? How mucha gem um for?

First of all an NA RB swap is a fraction of the money and work you have to put in compared to a DET swap. I know youve done a DET swap and i can tell you its nothing even close to that. Second your talking about near 200hp in STOCK form. I don't know of any NA L24/26/28/3+ that came with that much HP in STOCK form. The RB has more potential to grow as an NA engine becuase of a better flowing head. Also, he did say he wanted it to be a daily driven car, so i'm sure efficiency is a must. It's very unlikly that an carbed L engine with webers, mikuni's or su's can be more efficient than the fuel injected RB. Furthermore, a stock RB25DE + tranny and all electronics weighs 35 LBS more than a su'd L28 w/ headers + 5 speed. I know, because I weighed everything myself. Shift the weight further back than the L28 and your good. If weight is your biggest issue, then toss the stock iron manifold for a nice stainless peace, toss the large intake minfold for some ITB's , throw on a lightweight flywheel and that almost covers the difference. The RB is is undisputedly a more advance engine than the L and has far more potential to make more power. I don't see why you think RB's HAVE to be turbo or nothing.

I got mine from shop called neotech in San diego, CA. youl just have to look around, and get lucky, because there isnt such a big need of those engines. try ebay.

Jon, do you think if you ran a proportioning valve when you were running the 4x4 + rear discs You would have been able to dial in your appropriate F/R bias?

Thanks Jon and bwrex for saving the topic. Heres some brake info, if you plan to go 4x4 up front and stay with the rear drum, stick with your 7/8 master cylinder and save your 100+ bucks from the 15/16 master. I just found out. Question for those of you who switched out their drums to rear discs: What are your overall impressions? would you recomend the swap over staying with the drums? Question for those of you who switched to 4x4 vented up front: Are you content with the change? any thoughts of going bigger in the future? Please be specific. Current brake setups, car purpose, or any other important info that we should take into consideration. Thanks in advance,