Dave

I am the one that started the billet aluminum LSD brace. I sold a lot of them to the guys here until my machinist retired. I changed the design several times until I ended up with the 4 hole design. I have lots of pictures here http://63.229.133.5:8884/Files/Datsun/Brace/ and here http://63.229.133.5:8884/Files/Datsun/LSD-Brace/ These links also have pictures of the other brace designs.

I found the same copper washer and loose axle flange on my 71 240Z. I pulled both flanges to remove the copper washers and and just put it all back together less the washers using new nuts and the 280Z torque specs "180 to 240 ft-lbs" Its been a couple years since I did it and everything is tight and working well.

When I did the V8 swap in my 71 in addition to the Chrysler fuel pump safety switch I put in a fuel pump inertia switch from a FI Ford (All Fords from 1980-2000 with FI have them). I have the switch mounted on my left kick pannel just below the hood release. The inertia switch will kill the pump power in the event of a accident. The switch has a reset button on the top if it kicks due to a good bump. The switch can be found in the trunk of the Fords on the left side behind a sign that says "Emergency fuel Shut Off"

NC is normally closed NO is normally open

Since they are a neighbor if there is enough interest I will go talk to Ted or Tod and see if they will do a group purchase or give a discount to HybridZ members on their products.

These guys are here in Portland Oregon just a few blocks from where I live. I have bought from them in the past and have been treated well. They are a father son operation and very honest. You might do better by contacting them directly.They have a webpage http://www.engnbldr.com

I don't speak japanese but I am almost positive the driver was asking where his extra pair of depends was.

My server has been down for a day but its up and running again. I have pictures at http://www.V8-240Z.com

I have been cutting aluminum sheet for years with my table saw and a fine tooth carbide blade. I use a home made crosscut sled to set the aluminum on. The only kickback I have ever had was when I tried it with the rip fence as a guide. So the word of warning is DONT USE THE RIP FENCE EVER!!! I have made all the custom aluminum brackets for my z using this method. The aluminum just cuts like oak or any other hard wood. A cheap Harbor Freight table saw will do just fine for this. I have a second sled set at a 45 to do the corners. It will even work to attach a sled to the stock miter gauge. Here is a picture of a simple srosscut sled http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/images/etip030822wb-1.jpg the sled I made uses only the one miter slot as a guide.

I just finished wiring a electric fuel pump to the stock wiring in my 71Z. The fuel pump wiring is already in the car from the factory. There are 2 wires taped with blue tape at the fuel level sender at the tank The black wire at the fuel pump is grounded to the chassis at some point between the pump and the dash. The green wire is + The other end is behind the radio taped to the harness with blue tape. To run the pump you simply need to supply 12+ to the green wire in the harness behind the radio. Its a mystery to me where the black wire in the harness behind the radio goes. There were already holes in the 71Z on the right side just in front of the tank that matched the 280Z pump bracket that I used. I used a Fram FRAM G-3 clear fuel filter between the pump and tank. Its $4 at the local Wall Mart store What I did on the rest of the wiring was to use the oil pressure switch to control the pump with the 3rd connection going to the starter solenoid to run the pump when its cranking since using the oil pressure only will prevent the pump from running until the car starts. Last but I felt most important I put a fuel pump inertia shut off switch in the car on the drivers kick panel and wired it between the fuel pump side of the relay and the green wire in the harness behind the radio. I did not cut up the harness I simply used a male spade connector and shoved it into the green side of the plug to make the connection. The inertia fuel pump shut off switch will shut off the power to the pump in the event you have a accident. It also will shut it off if you hit a speed bump going too fast. It happened to me once when I had the intertia switch under the hood. That is the reason I moved it in to the car where I can reach it. That one time is the only time it has shut off. The inertia switch has a reset button that you simply push to reset it. The inertia switch is from any fuel injected Ford from 1980-2000. its in the trunk on the left side behind a panel that is almost always marked that the emergency fuel cut off is behind it. Be shure to cut the harness as far back as you can when removing the switch. With out the 2 wire harness its going to be hard to connect A anti theft fuel pump switch can be placed before or after the inertia switch to cut power to the fuel pump if you want. Now I went 1 step further and used a second inertia fuel pump shut off switch to control a main battery solenoid shutoff. Instead of using a manual battery disconect like every one else uses I have a solenoid designed to disconnect the battery. The solenoid is the same one used on Piper, Cessna and Beechcraft to disconnect the battery when the aircraft are parked. The solenoid is 6 inches from the battery and I chose to disconnect the Positive cable. I was going to use it on the negative cable but I have the alternator output connected to the positive cable at the battery and the engine would still want to run in a accident for a short period of time if the negative was disconnected. This inertia switch is also on the drivers kick panel next to the one for the fuel system. In the event of a accident the battery will disconnect as will the fuel pump power. A simple double pole single throw toggle switch can be used as a emergency or antitheft switch. that will kill both battery and fuel. Or you can use a switch or each and hide it where ever you want. This is as fail safe as it gets with inertia switches and the battery positive being disconnected with in 6 inches of the battery. I have a picture of the aluminum plate (Soon to be painted black) that has both inertia switches and a double pole single throw disconnect switch between the inertia switches. The disconnect kills both the fuel pump and battery http://63.229.133.5:8884/Files/Datsun/Inertia-Switch/Switch-Med.jpg I used this aluminum plate so I could easly remove the complete assembly. Once painted its hard to see and the kill switch is hidded between the inertia switches. At this point its easy to put in a second set of switches if needed. I have a couple extra inertia fuel pump shut off switches if any one is looking to do this modification and does not want to go to a wrecking yard to get one. I may even be able to get some more of the battery disconnect relays. But at $40 each they are expensive!!!!

I am the one that was selling the brace you are referring to. My machinist retired over 2 years ago and have not found one that can manufacture the brace at a reasonable price. I have sold several braces in the past to members at this site and my web page is still up http://www.V8-240Z.com

Here ya go http://63.229.133.5:8884/Files/Datsun/JTR-MSA-Kit/

I saw the reference to the wiring in the JTR book. But they said that the wires were on the passenger side up by the air vent. The actual wire that goes to the Electric fuel pump is behind the radio and in a T connector. With no battery in the car but using a 12V power source with the + going to the Green wire in the T connector and the - grounded the pump runs. What I am trying to figure out is what does the other wire in the T connector do? Is that the + power for the pump? and is there a fuse some place?

I do have it half solved, the + wire from the pump ends up at the connector behind the radio. The - wire at the pump is attached to the chassis at some point. So by putting + power to the connector behind the radio and the - attached to the chassis the fuel pump does run. The connector behind the radio is a T connector with one of the wires going to the pump the other wire is not the - for the pump. Just where does the other wire go? I have a 71 FSM and can't find any reference to the wiring that appears to be there for the dealer installed electric fuel pump. If there is a relay they used for the pump where did it go? what about the fuse? I can easly put one in but if its there or a provision for one I would just as soon use it.

I just installed a electric fuel pump in my 71 and used what they say is factory wiring for the pump. The wires I attached to had bullet connectors, were at the tank sender and taped to the harness with blue tape. In doing a search I found reference to blue taped wiring near the passengar side vent (JTR Book) and some blue taped wiring behind the radio. I found both of these sites but they don't run the pump when powered up. There is not a battery in the car at this time and what I did was to power the two connector sites up in hopes the pump would run. Do both wires from the pump +/- end up in the dash area or is the - grounded to the car someplace? Did I miss something along the way? I have a filter before the pump and another under the hood and what I want to do is run the pump for several hours pumping Kerosene out and back into the tank. The reason I am doing this is the car has set for several years with out running. The pump and filters are permanent and what I am using for the V8 conversion.

http://63.230.175.50:8884/japanese.wmv Right click and "Save Target As" Its a 2 Meg D/L

I was not shure where to post this but here goes. This is not mine and I don't know anything about it. I just found it in a local forsale forum http://www.pdxforsale.com/?ad=156607&cat=&page=3

To keep the car from trying to start when its running just pick up a vacuum starter lockout switch from a Chrysler. Its a vacuum switch connected to the starter circuit. If the engine is running the vacuum switch breaks the starter circuit so the starter will not work. Very simple but effective.

you might try http://www.baddogparts.com they list them for 75-78 though

I have these pictures on my webpage. http://www.V8-240Z.com once your there click on the morphing Z and follow the directions. The Ford stuff is in the Ford-Motormount folder.

I have searched the different forums for radiator hose numbers and came up with a upper hose thats perfect. Its the lower hose that I can't come up with. None of the numbers I have found fit correctly. I have a 71 240Z with a 350 in the JTR set back position, the radiator is a new 3 row from a 75 280Z. Does anyone have a setup similar to this? and if you do what lower hose are you using? These are the lower hoses I have looked at that won't work. Dayco #C71217 Gates #20608 the same as Dayco #C71217 Napa #7856 the same as Dayco #C71217 Dayco #C71057 Napa #7579 Napa #8948

Its actually a hot link called "Who Really Raised the flag on Iwo Jima?" that is just above rules of engagement

In reading through what johnc posted I found reference to this page. http://www.goodolddogs.com/raisedflag2.html Its 60 year old news but equally important and very well done.

The shift lever on the TH 350 has to be pointing up. When the lever is moved all the way forwards (close to the engine) the TH 350 it will be in 1st. Its in park when the shift lever in all the way back. There are 5 clicks as the lever is moved from 1st to park.

Who supplies the bait? http://officeclips.com/clips/7.wmv