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JustinOlson

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Everything posted by JustinOlson

  1. You could also raise the rear differential and inner LCA mounting points. That would fix up all your geometry issues.
  2. John do you have pictures of the ducting you used to cool the brakes on your old 240z race car? Sounds like most overdo the brakes in all the wrong parts of the system.
  3. These are the injectors I was talking about. You will want the narrow spray angle 25 degree version: http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/pdf/components/injection_valves/EV_14.pdf I'm not sure what you have to do on the manifold side of things. The 14mm refers to the fuel rail O-ring connection. Justin
  4. Is that a tandem bike in your garage? Killer project BTW. Justin
  5. You should make it into a coupe with a trunk to complete the look. The fastback just doesn't go well with the front end.
  6. What is the best readily available non radially mounted caliper available? I've been having trouble picking out a caliper, as they all seem equally capable. I don't mind spending a little more to get a caliper that will perform better. Just trying to sort through the marketing to figure out what will actually work the best. I've been looking at: Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite Outlaw 4000's Us Brake F88i's. Are there any options for 3.5" mount spacing from Alcon, Ap, Brembo, ect? Justin
  7. Are you running these brakes under your 15X10 steel wheels? How is the fit?
  8. If you don't need to, don't run low impedance injectors with a resistor in line. The injector won't work as well as it could with a proper low impedance injector driver. There are plenty of good high impedance injectors that will work really well for you. I'd definitely go to a O-ring 14mm fuel rail. The bosch EV14 injectors have one of the best spray patterns around. I'm going to be running them on my 2JZ swap. Justin
  9. Can you position the strut inserts so they have only say 1.5"-2" of droop travel. Wouldn't this perform the same as have droop limiters? Justin
  10. You could always take a front wheel drive engine/transmission and turn it 90 degrees. You one drive flange for the front diff, and one drive flange for the rear diff. I wanted to do this with a Caddy Northstar engine, and their 4T80e transmission (very strong). Justin
  11. Best Place I know of to get machining around PDX. http://taborsautomachine.com/
  12. If you could get away from the barb style injectors, you'd be well served to try the newer Bosch EV14 injectors. They have the best response and spray pattern on the market.
  13. I cut the bump stop in half on the R36-5022H0. This gets me upto ~5.5-5.75" total travel compressing the strut by hand. Justin
  14. Well I got my inserts apart. You used to be able to just unscrew the insert from the yellow body. Bilstein started using loctite on the threads, so this is no longer possible without using some heat. Anyway, I used a chisel and hammer to seperate the silver bottom cap from the yellow tube. Worked like a charm. Now that I look at the internal strut, 240z guys could run these in a standard orientation if they liked with the yellow tube removed. The shaft is 0.441", and the body diameter is 1.575".
  15. Well the threads are M14X1.5. There is about 0.75" of threads. The shaft bellow that is 15mm. The spherical bearing in my camber plate is about 0.620" tall. So I can't really get any thread engagement if I placed it on the 14mm shaft area. Justin
  16. Anyone know where to get a 15mm ID, 5/8" OD bushing? My camber plates have a 5/8" hole, and the shaft of these bilsteins is 15mm. Worst case, I can order a 15mm ID bushing and turn down the the OD to 5/8". Just figured I'd ask before doing this. Justin
  17. Here is a picture I found of a R36-5022-H0 torn apart to cut down the bump stop: I will be working on this myself soon.
  18. Amazing time! What size tires are you running? Also what rear end? What RWHP did you make on the dyno?
  19. Looks nice. What rear end do you have?
  20. Idea for my car: We'll see if I can get it low enough to make this look ok. The headlights would change over to HID projectors, and modified headlight covers. Before: After: Before: After:
  21. I haven't torn apart my 280z suspension just yet. They did measure in at 1.805" OD at the top. The bottom is tapered, and measures in at 1.725"
  22. Another conversion with Keith at Bilstein. The cap on the bottom of these inserts is pressed in. You can carefully remove it with a chisel. Once it is removed, you gain access to the internal bumpstop without depressurizing the strut. I will post pictures shortly. Also, the factory piston in these are digressive. They can be swapped out to linear pistons at no charge when they are revalved. Now to figure out the damn valving with a digressive piston...
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