72zcar

my wifes 85 300zx has the talking lady... the thing never shuts up...why would you want that?

i'm not sure how much the goodwrench 350 is putting out, but its does get up and shit a little bit does the msa roll bar do much to stiffin it up? I am not sure I can weld upside down... I can barely weld right side up. Plus all I have is a arc welder... quess this is a good excuse to buy a mig Exactly what size steel tube is used for the sub frame connectors? please be specific because I dont know anything about steel...thanks Bob

yes this is true... lets say with my stock crate motor with the bolt on stuff I am 250 hp...maybe more maybe less I dont know. I already have the strut tower (msa) braces front and back, If I ad sub frame connectors will I be Ok? Or will I also need the 8 point roll bar also?

ok tim thanks... again. one last thing(haha) what is the 13-350 Front Sub-frame supports (goes through firewall) $39.95 http://www.swracecars.com/rbrcass.html

ok thanks...now i see. Does the front (the part not shown in your pic) go up to the frame rail in the front and stop and is it welded to that? do u have picks of that? did you make your own or arte these the frame rail connectors S&W sells? do you think its possible to instasll the 8 piont roll bar from S&W with the interior and dash in the car? I see from your web sit your interior was out when you installed your roll bar... thanks for helping, i know this is a alot of

ok... now i need to figure out how to do it... do the 8 point roll bars from S&W come welded? I'm still not sure what a sub frame connecter is..is it the things on the floor that go threw the fire wall, or do the just get welded to the passenger compatment side of the firewall?. finally got it going good and now im afraid to jump on it for fear of doing harm to the body and frame. This z is pretty nice and was garaged from 1986 till now and is still garaged and hate to mess it up.. i need help

No cracks yet... but my 73 with a stock l24 has them and my buds 71 with a l28 has em big time. So there you go.. no sure what all this means.

Question: Ok, go my 72 out yesterday and was able to floor it twice at a roll of about 25 mph... this is a 91 goodwrench crate motor with shorty headers, edebrock intake and 600 edelbrock carb and msd, TH-350 tranny with a shift kit. Gets rubber at a roll when it down shifts and then again when it shifts to second before I ran out of road. I'm sure this is mild for most of you guys but to me it seemed to pretty much haul ass So the question is with this stock crate engine and the bolt on stuff am I going to twist the body or frame, should I install sub frame connectors and or roll bar? When it hits second with my foot plastered to the floor it seemed to ...hmm i think you could say groan a bit as the tires broke loose. Kinda souded like my dog when he is not getting the pizza crust fast enough

Terry Nice Ride! Is that the fuel fill in the middle? Does the back hatch no longe open then?

depends on the rolling chassis. how are the shocks, springs, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, tires, brakes .... Last thing you want to do is drive a v8 z with hammered suspension, end up saying hi to mr. tree

ok, I now see that it is leaking from the governor. I know from reading this great board that there is an O-ring iside the governor case. Here is the thing... the clip that holds the governor case on is missing. Anyone have an extra one 1: if I remove the governor case am I going to get tranny fluid gushing out? 2:Should I drain the tranny pan first? 3:Can I seal it on with gasket sealer? 4: do you thing the reason its leaking is because the clip is missing? Oh yeah. front end fixed pretty much good as new.

ok, now i see...thanks.

ok, i got the shift shaft seal on order.. still dont know for sure if i install it from the inside or outside, denny says inside... but i have read outside, so im not sure. And the "servo" seal I can not find at all. If I remove the snap ring and take the case off is it going to leak tranny fluid? How is the servo seal replaced?

yeah... but where do i get the seals? I went over to kragen and there is two "ladies" working and the did not even know what a shift shaft seal is... one was doing here nails and the other was gabbing on the phone. She said maybe I should try albertsons... crap do i need the tool... or is it easier to do it from the inside. and if i do it from the inside do i need a special tool?

thanks denny... is there a tool to remove the old seal? also i have been looking for the seal at summit, kragen, autozone.. all they seem to have is complete rebuild kits, where can i get these to seals i need? check this out http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp05.html do I need this tool? it says i can remove the old and install the new seal without removing the pan. I dont mind dropping the pan though..no big deal. I am mostly wondering if I need ant "special tools" to do this and where to get the shaft seal and servo seal?

oh well stuff happens... nothing fiberglass resin and alot of work cant fix... what about the leaks? anyone? Is there an O ring on the shifter shaft? If so how do I replace it?

the th350 tranny in my 72 is leaking. I replaced the seal in the rear of the tranny first (the one the driveline goes in) ...still leaks. So, i replace the pan gasket...still leaks Now after looking closer... i realize that it is leaking around the shift rod the goes in the side of the tranny. and there is the 3 inch round cap thing on the drivers side of tranny...it it leaking a little there, but mosty at the shift rod so, how do it fix it? bad day yeterday... i had it on ramps.. (put it on the ramps with a floor jack) and when it rolled back the air dam hit the ramps and cracked the air dam and both headlight buckets, almost ripped the right bucket off... i almost cried...i just got it painted

ok spirit...no more "Depends what the definition of is... is" how bout this

vacuum leak perhaps

could be a faulty thermostat. I bought a new thermostat from msa and was faulty right out of the box. I would get on the highway and temp would go up. Swapped it out and no more problems.

had a dude over here with the amp gauge going way to the left and a click... it turned out to be the ground cable going from the battery to the started bolt..it was loose at the starter bolt. so check your negitive cable at the starter bolt...

dont forget to support the chain and jam the tensioner... or you will

chevy engine high temp paint looks pretty close to datsun orange in a rattle can...

oh yeah... the most important thing i almost forgot...NEVER...NEVER LEND OUT YOUR Z

"ran over a pallet that fell off the back of some pickup " sounds "made-up" to me. More likely he was out there slamming the gears like a crazy maniac... and its a drivline slapping aroud or a halfshaft. could be just loose... who knows.. quit typing and jack it up..haha