LS1 240Z

its about time

me rikie yellow my car was originaly that color, and i was going to paint it back that color with a black hood and other black accents, but since then i decided on dark blue. cant wait to see finished pics

70s-a-rific

search feature blows donkey nuts my suggestion would be to make a new cross memeber like guys on here have done for their S30s, use the general mounts (rubber part goes on motor, then there is a U shaped piece that comes seperate from the plate and you just weld it as you see fit, or you can use the stock LS1 mounts and weld them to the chassis (thats whats done on my 240Z)

if the motor is a DOHC 32 valve motor im guessing that it wont fit... if its a SOHC i am not sure it would fit...

oh.. i thought you had an LS2 also.. haha, yeah if you have a 99 i wouldnt spin it that high. if you use ARP you are suppose to have the rods resized. lots of guys have put them in without resizing them, but i think they are risking it. i used katech rod bolts, more expensive but better imo ps sorry for taking thread off topic

well i dont want to hear you guys comming back and whining when you dont have room in your engine compartments

i dont want to sound like an ass but i know my LSx ♥♥♥♥. 97-00s have the weak rodbolts that stretch and break at higher RPMs. 01-04 LS1s and all gen 4 motors have much better rod bolts that have seen 7k in several cars. if you go on LS1tech look at what all the other LS2s are reving to. i know a kid around here that reved his 99 LS1 with cam, bolt ons and nitrous up to 8100, it lasted that way for a couple of years before it finaly gave out. i put katech rod bolts in the motor i built so that i can spin to 7500 or more

usualy people use 300ZX hubs there is a guy on here that has third gen camaro hubs on his car

cant weld aluminum to steel, so have to rivit it looks like he cut out the stock placement of the seat brackets and put that aluminum in there, put foam between the floor pans and the new aluminum and just bolted seats straight to the floor

have you calculated how much weight you are adding to the car? haha

just a quick question, why didnt you run them like this? run them more along the inner fenders, and then down over the curve, ending right behind the radaitor support.. just wondering here, im not a professional cage builder, but i would think that would give you more room in the engine bay, and add more strength

i think the subtle z kit would be perfect on that car..

yeah, i dont think that the heating of wheels during powdercoat will damage them it is correct that you dont want any powdercoat between surfaces that bolt to each other because the powdercoat can and will flake off, resulting in loose bolts. if i were you id take the wheels appart, polish the outer lip, as well as the inner part, then try to clean off the black part of the wheel, if you cant get it off the black, repaint them yourself or have them blasted and then powdercoated or do something cool like having them annodized, if you spend time and money on painting them, do them something diffrent that nobody else has.. like gunmetal grey or something

i guess that opens up the possiblity for other manufactures such as yamaha, suzuki and honda to get their 4 wheelers classfied as street legal vehicles in every state

they dont have issues with 7000 or even more RPMs, based on that dyno sheet you should go higher in the RPMs LS1, LS2, LS6 springs should only be used with the stock cams or with a cam with smaller specs. comp 918s are good for cams up to .6 lift, for antyhing more than that patriot gold duals are the best budget minded choice for up to .650, comp 921s are very expensive, but also great

so, my car has had its roof butchered by a crappy sunroof. this brings me to my question, how hard was it to cut the top off and how difficult is it going to be to get the curve of the roof right when you weld a piece back on? i think that its going to be difficult for it to not look strange, its whats discuraging me from doing it to my car. oh and i plan on doing a 10 point cage to my car also

you dont appear to have a shortage of money and/or mechanical/fabrication skills. go for it. dont listen to nay sayers. im sure there were pleanty of nay sayers when people talked about putting SBCs, LS1s, Ford 5.0s and BBCs into the Z cars.

its hella easy to spin the motors to 7k. on 97-00 LS1s you just need to replace the rodbolts, and on 01-04 LS1s and LS2s you dont have to do anything this is assuming you have put a cam in it that needs 7k, and therefore you would be putting new valve springs in it. the Comp 912s are what all the race cars use, but the PRC gold valve springs that i use are lots cheaper and suppose to be sufficent. with a double coil spring an LSx could run at 8k for hours on end with 0 problems

you could probably cut it up and take it out very easily. putting a new one would probably be the hard part

it looks like a photoshop lol, it just dosent look real why didnt you go ahead and have them do the inner fender areas and everything?

Lason, dont forget about the L92 heads i seriously debated whether to go with a LQ4 with 50k on it, or my freshly rebuilt LS1.. in the end i settled on LS1, later im going to build another motor with at least a 4.00 inch bore (LQ4,9 LS2 or sleeved block)

T56 is really the hard part, i can find you LSx motors all day every day

thats not a funny joke man...

i read on a website that that Audi is actualy mostly polished aluminum.