280zex

YES!!! test drive completed and the Z runs great!! I like the lower 5th gear compared to my original 5 speed too. Now to fab a new shifter boot as the original Z boot doesn't fit so well over the 240sx shifter...........

What kind of welder did you get? I got an el-cheapo wire feed from Harbor Freight. My welding is ok on the flat spots, but them corners are not so well. It's definitely harder to do than the videos I seen on u-tube make it out to be.........

I had enough about not finding some body who would mod my trans brace, so I did it my self. I had to buy a wire feed welder, and learn to weld. I found some good how to videos on u-tube for that.............. So here is some pix of my modified trans brace. It looks funky because I sprayed it with a liberal amount of rubber under coating. I will be driving the Z tomorrow!!!!

I want that dash.... and the coolant system looks different too, on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'm not shure what I'm seeing there, towards the front, some type of over flow/surge tank??? I would love to see underneath, at the suspention and brakes..............

No NewZed I want this done right and that modification does not look like it would hold up to the HP my Z makes. Maybe it would, but I dont feel comfortable with that mod in the pic.... I have also made my own structural weld in bottom plate for the modified trans brace, to be welded on after sectioning and extending. I know that I get pushy sometimes, and this is just a reminder that good things come to those who wait.... well I guess I hurry up and wait!!! After looking that pic over, it gives me an idea...... looks like I will be under the Z tonight after work!!

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dude does not have the time, really bussy with race car classes and what not. I went to 5 other local shops and every body is too bussy working on their cars for the races this weekend and the big ass car show on the 4th. So no showing off my HybridZ at any of the car shows on the 4th this year ;-( Boooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Finally I found a local race shop that can help with my Z!! This guy has a real 240Z race car with pix of him racing at Thunder hill!! When they get done with my cross member modification I can take my Z down to the shop and put it on the corner scales and what not. The guy is also a race driver instructor and I can join the class and get the Z out on the track!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The guys at the shop want to see my Z bad too, they are very curious about my turbo Holley blow thru and how I got'r done

Well rats...................... I was searching at midnight, weary eyed and had a bit of Fosters beer in me!! Oh well.. And that shop I called didnt actually have the rockford u-joint on hand, only in their warehouse, in Nevada... Looks like I wrote down the wrong number is what happened, so gmb 220-0027 is the u-joint I ordered. I had to check my email for the info.... Good catch!!

nice! It is an easy install. I do need the bigger tank tho......................

The early 240Z factory tach units function differently than the 280z units. There is info here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/60436-240z-tachometer-hook-up/ OR just use the aftermarket unit you have...google search does wonders

The u-joint I ordered was 7$ and I am under the impression that this may be the "heavy duity" u-joint that MSA sells??? as far as my prop shaft goes, it does have the non staked in u-joints. They are Torrington 4a's. Where I got this prop shaft is any bodys guess as I don't have a clue.... but it fits, after being shortened 2 inches. The trans side u-joint has a sticky spot so I'm going to replace it...

I did more online searching for possible u-joints last night and found that the prop shaft u-joint for a 1987-89 Nissan Pathfinder (MAY or MAY NOT) be an alternative. The part number I found that was cross referenced from a Datsun 311 web site is GMB 220-0027. So I ordered one and when it gets here I will post up if it works or not. On a side note: if you install a larger diameter rear sway bar, install it AFTER you install the drive shaft. I could not get my new shortened drive shaft to pass the bigger rear sway bar, so I had to remove the body clamps for the sway bar and swear a lot. Edit change: I had the wrong part number listed, GMB 220-0029 is for the half shaft u-joint and GMB 220-0027 is for the drive shaft.....

ok so it looks like, from online searching and TonyD posting about an rx7 forum, that the rockford 430-10 u-joints are what I need. I found a shop that has 3 so thats some good luck. Now to find a press I can use.... This should be easy, however I have not replaced a u-joint sence 1984, and that was on a 1976 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4!!

Thanks for the heads up on that measurement Nigel, I will re-measure the cross member tonight. As for the speedo, I decided to go with the programable auto meter unit. I wanted to have a speedo that correctly reads the speed that I'm traveling. My stock set-up was off just a little, it was reading 5mph slow at 60mph. And yes I totally forgot about the 14mm plugs for the non-used trans switches, oops...... I also had another set-back today. The drive shaft place that does my work is closing the doors today, owner said something about new govt regulations or something...... The guy did shorten my drive line, but was unable to get new u-joints for me. So it looks like I gota do some google searching for replacement u-joints. Good thing that I found a drive shaft that has the replaceable units!!!! When I get home I will try the fitment of the newly shortened drive shaft I have......

sorry ktm but I'm not going by conjecture, as you can see by the first pic I posted, the guages point downwards. So do yours, thats why you had to turn them upside down. I need to work on my fab skills so I can produce a nice "factory" looking center insert for my guages. This way I dont have to roll around with upside down guages........... unless you plan on, at some future point, to be upside down while driving your Z. Then I applaud your forward thinking......

1) My right side blinker wont blink when I engage the turn signal on the left side, The lights just turn on and stay on including the turning indicator on the dash. Hazards do make both sides blink however. Usually this means that the flasher unit has gone bad. it is a small round silver cylinder, about the size of a film canister, located on the steering colum. replace it and that should work, if not you have a bad ground somewhere...... There is 2 of these units, 1 for the blinker and 1 for the hazard. you can hold on to the unit while trying the blinker, and it should "click" just like a relay. if not you know its bad...

I'm just going to remove the throw collar and bearing, then install the correct (slightly longer) unit that is sitting on my work bench. I had a total slap face moment when I pushed the clutch pedal and it hit the floor like butter.................

The reverse switch was easy, I used the 280z switch that was already installed on the bell housing. The speedo is a programible electronic auto meter, its a 5 inch gauge so it fits right in the dash with no mods

Yes i was suposed to use the 240sx collar and bearing, but i didnt.... At least i can do the swap out in about 10 minutes as the z is still on the jack stands!!

Well I did it again, I used the wrong throw bearing collar for my 240sx trans swap!!! I had the correct parts seperated on the bench for the job at hand, but some how I swaped for the wrong ones ;-( This aint the first time either, now its x3 I have gone and used the wrong throw bearing collar in the last 10 years. I even have 2 different work benches for part seperation........ You would think I'd have learned my lesson, not!!!!

My 2 cents suggestion is call Delta cam. They can get you the cam grind you want I did and I am very satisfied. I called, we talked and by the time I drove down to the shop, my cam and rockers were on the counter waiting for me!!! Awesome people, awesome service!! And no cwc blanks are used...

ok so now that I have the modified 280z bell housing bolted to the 240sx transmission and installed into my 1976 280Z I took some measurements. From the trans out put shaft to the front of the diff flange is 24.5 inches, my diff is the r200 long nose lsd.. The 240sx trans cross member mounting surface sits exactly 1 inch more to the rear, so the 280z cross member center (where the rubber mount bolts to) must be sectioned and re-welded to compensate. I will take pix when I get this done. Attached photo shows were the unmodified trans cross member sits... This pic shows where the shifter mount lines up in the trans tunnel and access hole in the floor board... I left the stock 240sx trans switches (gear indicators??) in the original location and noticed that 1 of them wanted to get hung up on the 280z cross member mount that is welded to the Z frame. All I had to do was lower the jack that was under the oil pan of the engine to lower the alignment point between the trans and engine. This helped greatly with the alignment during trans install. Total install time by myself was 25 min with 2 floor jacks, 1 under the oil pan and the other under the trans. Once the trans is flush with the engine start the 2 lower trans to block bolts and finger tighten, then install the 2 upper bolts and tighten all 4 per FSM torque specs. Then you can jack up on the tail of the trans and install the cross member. To note: I DID NOT remove any of the coolant hoses, turbo plumbing or engine mounts to do this. There is enough flex in my system, so no issues. HOWEVER I do not have a stock radiator fan, so if YOU DO check the clearance first!!! or you might shove the fan blades into the radiator ;-(

I had my current Z for 10 years now and it still needs lots of work to get it where I want, and dont ask how much $$

Yes the stage1 kit WITHOUT the tank, and perfect for the price. There is an adjustable pressure switch you plumb inline with a boost signal, and adjust for the boost pressure you want it to activate. My system starts spraying at 5lbs boost. My max boost is 20lbs. I installed a small coolant overflow bottle as my meth tank, and it is too small. I would suggest atleast a 1 gallon tank with a big enough opening to easily add ice!! I dont know how much power I am making due to the fact that I keep braking drive train parts ;-( I also dont use the methanol mixed washer fluid like every body says is ok. why??? Methanol is corrosive to aluminum, so I mix rubbing alcohol with filtered water 50/50..... This is the best $$ I have spent on a water spray kit, and I like it!!!!

Why the nitriding anyways, if you dont mind the question? I have worked on many high performance engines and even some race cars, and 1 funny car. I have seen special coatings used on pistons, even the inside of the block, but never on the cam, ever.