denny411

You may want to have someone at a local garage give you some pointers on how to use the double flare tool. They are really simple...IF you know what you`re doing, but can be a real pain if you don`t.

If you`ll look in my previous post, I stataed that ALL(plus an engine hoist and stand) of these are things that I had in my garage when it was 19x10. This is the reason for shelves placed overhead on both sides of the garage. You will have plenty of room for storage that doesn`t interfere with your workspace. My list of required tools for a larger garage would be MUCH longer. My garage now is 32x62 and I`ve barely scraped the surface of the tools that I have.(and still don`t have everything I need )

I had to leave earlier so I couldn`t complete my list. 8)2 flourescent drop lights. 9) four 4' flourescent overhead lights. 10)a complete set of screwdrivers including torx drivers 11) a very good utility knife 12) gasket scraper 13) a minimum of 5 gal air compressor 14)an assortment of air tools, impact gun,ratchet,butterfly,die grinder,and blow gun 15)sawzall 16) cordless drill 17)an assortment of vice grips 18)adjustable wrenches 19)various types and sizes of pliers 20) channel locks That should be a good start This is a basic rundown of the tools I had when my garage was 19x10. I would also suggest putting up shelves on both sides. they should be about 12" above your head so there is no risk of running into one. Get some large hooks to hang all of your jackstands and large tools on the wall. This will save your floor space, and make it real easy to sweap up.

1)Four of the tallest jack(6 ton) stands you can afford. 2)A good 2.5 ton floor jack 3)solid bench with at least a 6" vice 4) 6" bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side 5)Push broom and dust pan 6) hand broom for cleaning off your workbench area 7) all basic metric hand tools

Your stories remind me of a major brain fart that I had a few years ago. To begin with... I had been bargaining for months with a guy over a perfect rust free bed for a Ranger pickup that I was redoing. Finally we came to terms and I brought my old bed to him as an exchange. On the return trip we had the new bed sitting in the back of my truck at the same position we had brought the old bed in. This turned out to be a very bad idea. I happen to look in the rear view mirror as we pass a tractor trailer going the opposite direction. It was just in time to see the bed take flight. The bed spun like a top to at least 30ft in the air then came down in the ditch and did about 6 end over rolls before coming to a rest upside down. Man was I glad there wasn`t anyone behind me. It was twisted and mangled beyond repair. I did find another bed, but it took a few more months, cost more and was in worse condition than the first one I had found. The moral of this story...ALWAYS SECURE YOUR LOADS.

Check it out. http://www.teamnabr.com/videos/civicreality.wmv

My Craftsman nut drivers will work on long bolts. I believe they slip over just as the snap-on units. Snap-on and Mac are way to pricey for me. Their warrantee only covers "normal use" .What the hell is normal use? I use whatever tool I have, however it takes to get the job done. Even if it means cutting the tool in half, then welding it back together at a different angle(which I`ve done) . Sears will replace it no matter what I`ve done to it. I once broke the drive off of Mac 3/8 ratchet. Then I had to argue with the Mac guy over whether or not I had used a pipe or not on it.(which I didn`t) He finally replaced it, but two weeks later I stripped the gears out of it. Two years later it`s still broken. I just didn`t think it was worth the arguement or hassle of tracking the Mac truck down again.

I`m sure the big problem with most shops is the liability issue. If they aren`t doing brakes and suspension work by the book, they are potentially opening themselves up for a lawsuit. Don`t you have any local welding/welding supply shops around? If so... I would recomend asking them. even if they won`t do it themselves, they would most likely know someone who would/could. BTW, Tell them it is for a track only car that will not be licenced or registered.

BTW... With a plasma cutter, a welder, and alot of cash, anything can be done.

If you are truely serious. You should invest some cash in your tool collection. This type of swap is not something you would want to source out. At regular shop rate, you would get raped. How about a Talon TSI, or Weren`t the some of the Conquests AWD?(maybe not?) What about the Stealth R/T drivetrain, Now that would kick a$$

I have to give a big thumbs up to Craftsman hand tools. I just returned from Sears where I exchanged all of my hand tools that were worn in any way shape or form. Some of the sockets had been mushroomed from beating on them with a hammer, or wollered out from useing them on my 500ft lb impact gun. Some pliers that had worn jaws, an adjustable wrench that just wasn`t shiney enough, my screwdrivers that had worn tips, open end wrenches with nicks on the jaws, and even punches that I`ve used to pry with. All in all I think there were almost 150 pieces. They exchanged everything with no questions asked. As you can see, I`m not easy on my tools either, and most of the Craftsman tools I`ve bought was from flea markets and swap meets. I usually pay about 50% of what Sears charges for the same tool.

It could be a worthwhile swap if you are not concerned about the overall effects on handling. I considered a similiar swap to my s30, but found a better way around my exhaust issues.

Another thing you may want to check is your brake hoses. I say this since you stated that your problems started soon after a brake job. Brake hoses can develope cracks internally, which after being disturbed(i.e.Brake job) can break loose and act as a check valve of sorts, only allowing fluid to pass in one direction. This can also be caused by not supporting the caliper properly and allowing it to hang from the hose. Not only can these "check valves" cause a caliper to not work, They can also cause them to lock. Bottom line when servicing your brakes... 1)Always support the caliper(I like wire or heavy rubber straps) 2) Never stretch or pull the hose 3) Only move the hose as much as necessary 4) If the hose is cracked on the outside, chances are it`s cracked inside too

Does anyone here have experience with the Bonneville ssei or Grand Prix GTP supercharged V6? I`m considering a transplant of one of these into a Z and possibly into my wifes MGB. I`ve heard that the 700r4`s from the late 80`s firebird and camaro with the 2.8v6 would bolt up, but I haven`t talked to anyone who has personally done the swap.

The whole add screams SCAM to me. It looks to me as if someone with an active imagination and so so photoshop skills was bored and came up with this.

I found a shaft and flange that will work for the conversion. I`m using a ford flange with a 2"diameter disc .390 thick. .190 of that thickness was turned down on a lathe to 1.968" the same as the inside diameter of the R230 companion flange. The disc is to keep the driveshaft centered on the pinion under load as well as to center the two companion flanges while I redrill the four bolt holes. I`m now using fine thread 1/2" grade 8 allen bolts to hold them together. The grand total was FREE . I called in a few favours to get the lathe work nad the hardware, and another buddy gave me the driveshaft.

I would suggest going to one of your local paint supply shops and asking if they know anyone that paints on the side. In my area, there are 4 or 5 guys that do this on a regular basis. All of which do very nice work. I would also suggest that you ask them to double check your work. Experienced bodymen can spot flaws and imperfections from 20 ft that you might miss when you`re staring straight at them.

I have no problem with telling everything about my car/cars. I doubt I`ll be able to pass it off as a sleeper anyway with my 3.5" side pipes rumblin' away.

I`m NOT really sure what parts you disagree with? It seems absurd to me that a cashier at Wal Mart, could make more than some of our enlisted Men/Women that are risking their lives at this very moment. As far as cash payouts to the 9-11victims families... I think there SHOULD be a cap on death benefits to survivors. If someone like Bill Gaites from Microsoft had been killed in the attacks, WE(the taxpayers) would have payed his wife BILLIONS of dollars based on his lifetime projected earnings. Finally...Congress should recieve there raises and pensions based on evaluations and time in service. Just like the rest of us, and for every session that they are not present. Their pay should be docked. I don`t you about you, but If I don`t work. I don`t get paid I think MLK said it best, and it fits for all of my comments. "All people should be judged on the content of their character..." BTW, This thread should be deleted. This topic could be a very sore spot with many of us here, and could get out of hand quickly.

HOLY COW... That`s a BIG sunroof i don`t think the previous owner could have fit anything bigger in there. The car itself looks like a sweet deal. My wife usually finds out I`ve got another car when she comes out to the garage and I`m wrenching on it.

You know... the R230 conversion can be a pretty costly adventure. For those that plan to run less than 400 fwhp, it may not be worth the investment. my cost are as follows, 1)halfshafts 85.00 for the pair(which is a pretty good deal) 2)(new)pair of Moser shortened axles 320.00 3)companion flange adaptors 175.00 4)R230 diff 250.00 5) redrill mustache bar 20.00 TOTAL, $850.00+ fabrication labor and materials,and running all over tracking down bargains. If I were going to do this swap for someone else, I wouldn`t touch it for a penny less than 1100.00 BTW... I finished my first shaft tonight. It looks really good, I`ll bolt it in tommorow morning and let everyone know how it fits.

You will need the q45 0r the zxtt axles. I had mine made at Moser Engineering in Portland Indiana.(this is where the owner and founder was from) They are made from the same material as ALL Moser axles. Even the ones that they make for Funny Cars. The cost was almost 160.00 each, but I dropped them off and picked them up in person. i had to pay sales tax, but no shipping. Shortening the existing axle is not possible because the shaft diameter is smaller than the splined ends. If they were to shorten it, you wouldn`t have enough splines making contact to be reliable. It would most likely strip out.

I had my own version of Miles adaptors made. I think my final axle length is 11 1/4". I had them made by Moser Engineering in Portland Ind. So far, i think they are going to work just fine. I`ll keep evryone informed on my progress.

I`m using a front mount motor plate. It gives me clearance for whatever I need.

You could also check to be sure you fan/waterpump belt is the proper size and properly tensioned. I had a similiar problem years ago with a Celica GT. I changed the belt to the narrower factory specified belt and never had another problem. The belt I had was too wide, and did not fit all the way into the groove. This reduced the contact surface area of the belt allowing it to slip at high rpm while cooling perfectly in slower and sometimes even stopped traffic.