veritech-z

You know, this is another picture that always hit a little too close to home...those look disturbingly similar to my wheels... [/img]

The guy with the car at 3:09 is my hero...Also, the dancing guy was just a touch of class you don't see every day. I wonder if my new exhaust counts as bososoku?

I know I'm coming to this thread kind of late, but I had to dig up this picture: that I took a few weeks ago. I never catch this stuff on film either, but I just happened to have the camera in the car for this one...

That 4-rotor vette was mid-engine, too. The concept car is still around, but at some point in its history the rotary took a crap, so now it's got a mid-engine BBC.

I gave it a shot, hope you guys don't mind. I used some all white, and some all black, then used the blur tool in photoshop to mix it a little bit. Also I used the blur tool to take out the upper character line on the door and smooth out the shading lines.

Maybe if you went all the way to white in some places?

I hesitate to reply to this, because I really don't want to come across as being down on Auxiliary or anyone else thinking of doing a rotary swap... Rather than list the things about the 2-rotor swap as detailed in Auxiliary's thread that don't appeal to me, I'll just apologize to anyone who may have been offended by that remark. I realize this is a costly engine option, but it kind of struck me as the "amplifier that goes to 11" on the cool swap chart. Sure you could build a high HP 2-rotor, but this one's a 4-rotor...I just thought I'd throw the info out there in case somebody wanted one.

You mean the BRE style front spook? I had one of those on my car until just recently, and it always bothered me that it didn't extend all the way to cover the fronts of the wheels. It hasn't ever run well enough to really push it and see a difference, but I'm now getting that under control, so I may get to see if my new fascia does any good soon. I definitely discovered that you don't need much of an opening at all to maintain proper cooling. I've only got about a 3" X 14" opening now, and the only difference I've noticed is that the car reaches operating temperature faster, but never gets hotter than the thermostat temp. I'm dying to see pictures of what you guys had going on between the radiator and the fascia (actually, I'm just dying to see the pictures of the different parts tested at all...the suspense is killing me!).

Yeah I'm pretty depressed about the mixed results attributed to the whale tail so far (but I'm holding out for it to get vindicated in the follow-up number crunching)...I'm thinking that I'll probably get one anyway, just because I prefer the looks of it.

Hard enough that 1 fast Z decided to make his own I guess...

LY crossflow by the looks of it. If you want to see some neat pics of that head, check out the ones HS30-H posted towards the end of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=76847&highlight=os+giken

Wasn't there a thread going way way back about the runner diameters of the various manifolds? I want to say that it was determined that the turbo ZX manifold had slightly larger runners...let me see if I can search that one up. *edit* well, i didn't find the thread I was looking for, but I DID find this one, the consensus of which is that there is in fact no appreciable difference in the various manifolds, barring the deisel manifold... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88950&highlight=runner+diameter

How much is the diarama going to weigh either for or against the finished product? what if you aren't particularly good at building scenery, but photoshop your model into a background? That sort of brings it out of the realm of model building, and more into a straight art contest...Are there certain views of the car that must be shown?

I do like it better, but the strake or whatever its called in the brake duct I think would look better if it was the same angle as the piece running through the main hole. Something to think about is that on a real car, you've either got mesh in that hole, an intercooler in that hole, or all the ugly stuff that makes up the radiator core support in that hole, so if it's too open, you'll see everything in there. Also, you really don't need that kind of area to maintain your cooling. I'm waiting on the Aero thread results myself, but I know that after I did my fascia (only has like a 4" X 14" or so opening in it) I've never run hotter than my thermostat opening temp. Are your headlight covers going to be the normal ones, or will they be custom? If they are the normal ones, the character line meets up with that lower line that runs down the side. Not trying to nitpick your drawing, by the way. If I saw this car in real life, those are the kinds of things that would go through my head, so just trying to help.

When you bought the hardline the first time, did you get the one with the Japanese style fittings? When I used to work at Advance Auto Parts we carried American tube, British tube, and Japanese tube. I made one from the Japanese tube and haven't had any trouble at all.

Problem solved...bidding ends in 14minutes...

I'd love to compete in this competition, but unfortunately i'm not currently equipped with a Jada Toys 240Z model...where does one acquire such a thing?

What's happening on the doors there, are those just like bumper strips? Oh wait, I see it, that's like a stepped widening panel, right? I'm thinking that the front is a bit too open for my taste, but if you like it, I say go for it.

BJ, did you get to test out a whale tail?

Looks like the welds you get from a Harbor Freight Mig100...ask me how I know that...

Both of those wheels would require an adapter to work on an S30 (I see you've got a skyline as your avatar, so I'm not sure what you're putting these on) depending on how you go about doing your 5-lug conversion. If you just re-drill your existing hub, you'll need a thicker spacer than you would if you did 300zx hubs (I've heard they space you out about 3/4 of an inch, but that still isn't enough to run these with no spacer). I hope Silviaguy240 was being sarcastic. Your adapters would need to be about 1.5" for the +40 wheels to work (on a standard hub drilled to 5 lug). The +30 wheels would work on that adapter also, but you could get by with about 3/8" less thickness.

You can also get a transmission made by gforce that allows you to run a B-series honda powerplant (Integra, some civic models) in RWD configuration.

"Uhhh, Devon? I've got a problem...Yeah, I sort of left KITT parked on the wrong side of the tracks last night, and well, it's happened again..."

Move them back towards the rear of the fender, and they will look better.

Lookin' good Paul! I was SO hoping to read about a Q-45 solution to your torque problem, but what can you do, right?