rturbo 930

You don't have a chassis to check fitment? I'm really not trying to give you a hard time, but usually when people ask for guinea pigs for a new product, that means that the product fits, and now they want people to run them to work out bugs. I appreciate that you're bringing a new product in here, but it sounds like you haven't checked to see if it's going to fit at all. I also have other concerns about the change in strut angle, ie, will it cause a change in handling, and if it's going to put a weird load on the top mount. Again, not a suspension expert, so those concerns may be unfounded. This too. Unless you plan to pay for all of this, you're asking a lot. Need a little more legwork from you.

Right, but the strut doesn't really have much room to go inboard, which means the hub must go out. I guess I need to see it on the car for it to make sense.

Well I'm definitely not a suspension expert, so someone help me out with this. since the strut tube is now some 2-3" offset, wouldn't this result in the wheel being pushed out the same amount, as well as needing longer control arms? I'm not understanding how this is going to work, unless I'm missing something obvious.

Does it need to be totally stock to pass TUV? I'm noticing you even included all the heat shields on the exhaust. You would think the country containing the autobahn and the Nurburgring would be a little more lenient on car mods.

As far as I know... Benchmark's parts are full carbon, and weigh very little. Seibon's products, based on what little I've found, don't seem to be as light. I don't think they're full carbon. I'm not sure about Retrospec, but I've heard mixed reviews regarding quality. Not sure where they come in as far as weight goes. I've never heard anything bad about Benchmark's products. Not surprising since that was John C's product previously. They would be my choice, and will be when I get to that point in my project.

500whp (meaning closer to 600 at the crank) in a car that weighs around 2500lbs is a lot of power (less than 5lbs per HP), and far more than most people need, or can handle. Yes, it is that much. Additionally, at that power level, you'll need to upgrade the driveline and reinforce the chassis.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117055-betamotorsports-composite-parts/

Lol, "only" 500whp. You know that's a shitload of power, right? The subtle Z kit adds 1" per side, and you can get some pretty big (275) tires under the stock fenders. If you put the effort in, you could probably get a 295 or 305 under the subtle Z fenders. Since you like the classic Z look, I'd probably go with what Nelsonian said regarding ZG flares, G nose, etc. Marugen Shoukai sells two different rear ZG flares, one of which is wider. The wider of the two should accommodate anything you would want to put under it. The option you haven't mentioned here is the IMSA kit. I'm not a huge fan, I think it messes with the proportions of the car, but it isn't common, and you won't be running out of space for tires.

Lots of people on here have bought from him, as far as I know he has a good reputation.

Pretty cool, is that a new product from Wilwood? Previously you had to get a separate ebrake caliper, never really liked that idea. Will the lever on the caliper interfere with the wheels at all?

I forget if I've already said this, but I think this may end up being among the very nicest of S30s on the planet when it's done. I bet all those little pieces are adding up fast though. This is why I'll never do a proper restoration haha.

Do you have a really quiet exhaust installed? I don't know if it's just me, but I've never heard an NA L28 that sounds like that. Almost sounds like it's not running right.

I agree with what Madkaw said. I've read on here that the rear panel available is apparently flat side to side, while the original is curved. No good. Your rear panel isn't that bad anyway. I would think a decent body guy could hammer that out, and custom make whatever is needed for the exhaust cutout. Is blending the new paint with the old an option vs repainting the whole rear end? I wouldn't think it would be too hard with your color. But then again, I know nothing about painting.

There's a donate tab in the top navigation bar toward the right. As for the complaint, honestly I think you're being too sensitive. It's a canned response that most likely came with the forum software. Who cares? It serves a purpose to let you know that your user status changed, and that's it. Besides, it's the correct word to use. When you donate, you upgraded to another user group with more privileges, and after a year, you are demoted back to the standard user group. Lighten up.

Looks good... and identical to your old car haha. What's the color?

It's 115 blue metallic.

I don't think I would have had the heart to cut that car up. Nevertheless, it looks like you know what you're doing, and I already like where it's going. Clever little body mounting system you came up with there.

I will never understand people who think they have any business sitting/standing on other people's cars. As I expect you were, I'd be absolutely livid. I think you're very lucky to have not only found her, but that she is also being reasonable about it. That seems rare today. The fact that it popped out going over a bump is very funny, but also fortunate! Doesn't look like it'll be too hard to fix, but I've heard stories about getting a roof straight on a Z.

Unless something has changed very recently, I think you just copy and paste the URL. It's really easy on this site.

That question was asked in the comments section of the FB post. The answer - it wasn't. At stock ride height, it wasn't a problem in the 280Z.

As far as I know, Tabco is the company actually making them, and anyone else is simply a distributor. The quality of Tabco panels varies. I have five pieces from them - one rocker, two doglegs, two lower rear quarters. None have been welded on yet, but I've done some fitting of the rocker. It's... okay. Usable, I think, without a significant amount of work. If your original rockers can be saved with patches, I'd try to go that route first versus a complete replacement. One problem with the Tabco rockers, is that there is a flange toward the front to accommodate the bottom of the front fender going over it, and several people, including me, have noted that there is a split in the metal here which will need to be welded up. The top of the rocker surface is a little wavy in places, and will require body filler if you want it to be straight. I think some have reported that the two fender mounting nuts attached to it are not quite in the right place - I haven't checked that yet to confirm. It's usable, but not great. I haven't done anything with the doglegs yet, but if I recall correctly, there was a big difference in how they came trimmed, ie., more or less material to work with. I'm hoping neither are short on material. The rear lower quarters I bought are way off. The compound curve at the rear is wrong - period. If they are needed for that part, I would say they are unusable. As for the wheel wells, yes, the wheel well on the car is made up of two halves, inner and outer. I think the parts you linked to are the same, just named differently. No one I know of makes the inner (strut tower side) wheel well. They do however make the outer piece which frequently rusts out, as well a section of the quarter panel which usually rusts out along with the inner piece. I think that's where the naming confusion comes from - they're probably calling the quarter panel piece the 'outer' wheel well for some reason. Make sense? Edit: I just went back to look through your pics, I don't think you should replace your rockers. I would patch them as needed, mostly at the front, it looks like. They appear to be in pretty good shape otherwise.

I don't want to hijack your thread on this topic more than I have (sorry), but I find this subject interesting in today's world of technology dependence, so last one. I guess it depends how much value you place on these things, and what you need. I don't care for the latest and greatest, and I typically get last year's phone when I think I need a new one (I'm on phone #3 in 10 years). My old laptop, also from 2007, was already lacking when I replaced it at 5 years old, and the one I replaced it with, now nearly 5 years old as well, is just fine. Just the same, I find my phone to be a useful tool, for taking pics (vs lugging around a camera), maps, flashlight, data connection for my laptop when I have no connection otherwise, easier to text with, you get the idea. I could do without, but it's useful. I can't stand all the ridiculous shit new cars have though, and why on earth does EVERYTHING need to be interconnected? There was an article a few years back about how you can hack into a new Jeep, and control everything from the radio, wipers, throttle, brakes, etc. Insane. And what happens when it fails, or becomes obsolete as technology tends to rather quickly? The whole car is non-op then. I recently saw a commercial for a Craftsman mower. And it comes with an app. Yes, a mower with it's own app. Apparently it tells you when the oil or battery needs to be changed, when to mow your lawn, I guess based on the weather, etc. and I think we're at the point where injecting technology into things has completely jumped the shark. There is no need for that, period. It just another business gimmick, and with the reliability (or lack thereof) of these things, I'm guessing it'll be a money maker.

I asked about the suspension because I saw you got rid of the mustache bar bolts, but I didn't put it together in my head that you only need those for the stock diff. I'm really interested in seeing what you come up with for the suspension components though. A lighter, stronger, more serviceable package using easily obtained OE parts would be awesome. 5x4.5 bolt pattern would be cool too. Even I have a smartphone. I guess I don't really need it but I've found that it makes for a great tool, kind of like a new age swiss army knife. Don't knock it till you try it. Pricier phone bill leaves less money for the Z though.

Exactly. I think it depends more on the style of the wheel. This car has 17" wheels, and I think it looks great. Unlike some other older cars, I think Zs wear larger wheel sizes pretty well. Here's an article on it with more info: http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/02/os-giken-power-americas-exotic-240z/

Credit where it's due - you're pretty much the only person to come out with a new body kit that doesn't look like absolute shit. In fact, it looks pretty good. Well done.