rturbo 930

Are you after what the original color is? What color is on the interior?

276HP at the crank or at the wheels? This guy is claiming that at the wheels, which, if you assume 15% driveline loss, is about 325HP, or about 116HP/L. That's been done, but that's a lot of power from an L, and not a number you're going to see with just a cam. It sounds like this guy is claiming that with just the cam, no head work, or anything else. He listed everything else, so if it had other engine work done, I think he'd have said so. By the way, since it sounds like Don Potter built a lot of engines, does anyone know where they all ended up? You would think someone would have come forward by now and documented what he did. Would be a shame to lose that info.

Saw no mention whatsoever of head work, or anything else that would suggest a properly built high performance motor. I did notice that it has Mikuni 40s on it, wouldn't those be too small to make that kind of power, or am I mistaken? 276whp would be a lot of power for a 2.8L.

Bored with the rotrex already? If it were my car, I'd be looking to move toward an aluminum block. Either an Al M52 block, or toss the M52 for an M54 , which should be much easier to find. It's been swapped into an E30, so there should be an easy rear sump oil pan solution if it isn't rear sump already.

Apparently there's a Chinese car company that is going to use this technology pretty soon. http://koenigsegg.com/freevalve-technology-unveiled-at-beijing-motor-show-in-qoros-qamfree-concept-car/

That's more or less what I suggested in my post, and it's what I would do in your situation. Drill out the spot welds, take the top piece off, and see what you've got. Your sill doesn't look that bad, but I agree that it's probably worse underneath.

I don't think simply cutting out and welding in the piece you have there is the way to go. I would take your replacement piece apart by the spot welds, and remove the top sill plate on your car and see what you need to repair. In other words, repair the upper and lower sections of the sill plate separately. Patch the lower part as needed, and install your new sill plate on top. And as a general rule of thumb, you should try to do things as the factory did it, ie., use spot welds, don't just weld it in along the edges. I've seen people do that, and I don't know why they do it.

I'm so glad you said this. Bed liner is for truck beds. It is NOT undercoating, which is why there is a specific product used for coating the underside of a car. Bed liner is extremely durable and rock hard. Undercoating is generally a bit softer, with more give. In other words, if there's debris being thrown at your undercarriage, the undercoating, which has more give, will absorb the hit, and the bed liner will not, ie, your car should be quieter with undercoating vs. bed liner. Use the right product for the right job.

Looks like whoever repaired the rear quarters actually knew what they were doing. I'm genuinely surprised.

I'm surprised you didn't go with a composite door shell. Car looks good though. I like that it isn't too extreme looking, even though it is very extreme in every other way.

Looks like you've got your work cut out for you. Yeah, I've seen worse, but time spent fixing all those little spots is going to add up. How in the hell did they manage to bend the mustache bar bolt? I'd be wanting to speak with someone if that happened to me. Not exactly easy to do, nor all that easy to fix.

Lol, this isn't classiczcars, not that I have a problem with them. You aren't the first here to do extreme modifications. Make a thread and post away.

I think you need to make a build thread for it. I'd be very interested to hear about all you've done here.

Dude. Punctuation and proper spelling. Please.

Yeah, those look better. I think you could've gone about an inch wider though.

Looks like it's custom. I like the detail on the fender lips - it's something that's missing from a lot of custom body kits. I'd like to see some more pics.

When you say full length frame rails, do you mean the frame rails under the floor? The 280Z subframe rails are longer and beefier but they don't connect to the rear subframe, which is what I would assume you mean by 'full length'. The 280Z engine bay rails are the same as those in the 240Z, no difference in gauge that I know of, outside of the series one cars which have thinner metal, but based on pics I've seen, they do have reinforcement on the inside that is absent on 240Zs. Regarding higher spring rates, I recall John C saying that a triangulated front strut bar (and possibly other reinforcements) allowed him to run higher spring rates, so if I'm interpreting what he said right, you don't need a full cage to run 300lb/in springs.

With all due respect to Miles and badjuju, I think you're out of date on Z values. Maybe several years ago, but not now. I'm a little out of touch myself, but my gut is telling me about 10k for that car with the issues it has. Maybe 12k as malibud suggested. Miles, if you honestly think your Z would only sell for 10k, I think you should reacquaint yourself with the current Z market. I could be wrong, but I would be very, very surprised if that's all it went for. I'd put it in the ballpark of 15-18k.

Should be the same.

The Bad Dog Parts is run by a member here, and their subframe rails are a popular and high quality product. Zedd Findings is where people typically get their replacement floors. Actually, I think they might be the only ones that make them. They take some fitting, but people seem to like them. I don't know anything about their frame rails. I seem to recall that someone makes a product that is designed to fit over the original frame rails to strengthen them, and not replace them, so make sure the product you're getting is a replacement. I'd take a closer look at your front frame rails before making the call to replace them entirely. It's just that usually when you can see past repairs, it's a sign of trouble.

I think you may honestly be the first to ask that on here, haha. I don't know the answer. I thought it was a primer. Ask on classiczcars. I think that would be your best bet.

Marugen Shoukai (Skokai? I forget) are the best. The MSA flares are a copy of a copy of a copy, etc. and from what I hear, aren't that great. I wouldn't even consider eBay flares. You can get them from rhdjapan - here's a link I had on hand http://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-wide-over-fenders-zg-wide-type-nissan-s30-s31-68595 I don't think I've ever seen someone recommend 15x8 wheels for use with flares. You can get those under stock fenders if you know what you're doing. I think I'd look at 9 to 9.5" wide to start with. Wheel fitment questions have been discussed many times here, so I'd advise you to use the search function.

Looks like someone has tried to fix the frame rails before, so yes, I think I'd just replace those entirely. Of course, it's easy to say that when I don't have to do the work . Also, I suspect your car has been hit in the front right corner before. Looks like that area has been massaged a bit back into shape. Overall, seems like pretty standard stuff.

Man, you are way ahead of the game with that shell. I'm jealous.

Might also help if you could remove some of the bumper support structure when you do your bumpers. I don't know what it's like on the S130, but it's pretty obvious on the S30 since it was just an add-on. I have a '76 shell that I'm going to remove some excess stuff from, and then compare it to my series 1 shell to see what the weight difference is between the two as a bare chassis.