rturbo 930

I'm so glad you said this. Bed liner is for truck beds. It is NOT undercoating, which is why there is a specific product used for coating the underside of a car. Bed liner is extremely durable and rock hard. Undercoating is generally a bit softer, with more give. In other words, if there's debris being thrown at your undercarriage, the undercoating, which has more give, will absorb the hit, and the bed liner will not, ie, your car should be quieter with undercoating vs. bed liner. Use the right product for the right job.

Looks like whoever repaired the rear quarters actually knew what they were doing. I'm genuinely surprised.

I'm surprised you didn't go with a composite door shell. Car looks good though. I like that it isn't too extreme looking, even though it is very extreme in every other way.

Looks like you've got your work cut out for you. Yeah, I've seen worse, but time spent fixing all those little spots is going to add up. How in the hell did they manage to bend the mustache bar bolt? I'd be wanting to speak with someone if that happened to me. Not exactly easy to do, nor all that easy to fix.

Lol, this isn't classiczcars, not that I have a problem with them. You aren't the first here to do extreme modifications. Make a thread and post away.

I think you need to make a build thread for it. I'd be very interested to hear about all you've done here.

Dude. Punctuation and proper spelling. Please.

Yeah, those look better. I think you could've gone about an inch wider though.

Looks like it's custom. I like the detail on the fender lips - it's something that's missing from a lot of custom body kits. I'd like to see some more pics.

When you say full length frame rails, do you mean the frame rails under the floor? The 280Z subframe rails are longer and beefier but they don't connect to the rear subframe, which is what I would assume you mean by 'full length'. The 280Z engine bay rails are the same as those in the 240Z, no difference in gauge that I know of, outside of the series one cars which have thinner metal, but based on pics I've seen, they do have reinforcement on the inside that is absent on 240Zs. Regarding higher spring rates, I recall John C saying that a triangulated front strut bar (and possibly other reinforcements) allowed him to run higher spring rates, so if I'm interpreting what he said right, you don't need a full cage to run 300lb/in springs.

With all due respect to Miles and badjuju, I think you're out of date on Z values. Maybe several years ago, but not now. I'm a little out of touch myself, but my gut is telling me about 10k for that car with the issues it has. Maybe 12k as malibud suggested. Miles, if you honestly think your Z would only sell for 10k, I think you should reacquaint yourself with the current Z market. I could be wrong, but I would be very, very surprised if that's all it went for. I'd put it in the ballpark of 15-18k.

Should be the same.

The Bad Dog Parts is run by a member here, and their subframe rails are a popular and high quality product. Zedd Findings is where people typically get their replacement floors. Actually, I think they might be the only ones that make them. They take some fitting, but people seem to like them. I don't know anything about their frame rails. I seem to recall that someone makes a product that is designed to fit over the original frame rails to strengthen them, and not replace them, so make sure the product you're getting is a replacement. I'd take a closer look at your front frame rails before making the call to replace them entirely. It's just that usually when you can see past repairs, it's a sign of trouble.

I think you may honestly be the first to ask that on here, haha. I don't know the answer. I thought it was a primer. Ask on classiczcars. I think that would be your best bet.

Marugen Shoukai (Skokai? I forget) are the best. The MSA flares are a copy of a copy of a copy, etc. and from what I hear, aren't that great. I wouldn't even consider eBay flares. You can get them from rhdjapan - here's a link I had on hand http://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-wide-over-fenders-zg-wide-type-nissan-s30-s31-68595 I don't think I've ever seen someone recommend 15x8 wheels for use with flares. You can get those under stock fenders if you know what you're doing. I think I'd look at 9 to 9.5" wide to start with. Wheel fitment questions have been discussed many times here, so I'd advise you to use the search function.

Looks like someone has tried to fix the frame rails before, so yes, I think I'd just replace those entirely. Of course, it's easy to say that when I don't have to do the work . Also, I suspect your car has been hit in the front right corner before. Looks like that area has been massaged a bit back into shape. Overall, seems like pretty standard stuff.

Man, you are way ahead of the game with that shell. I'm jealous.

Might also help if you could remove some of the bumper support structure when you do your bumpers. I don't know what it's like on the S130, but it's pretty obvious on the S30 since it was just an add-on. I have a '76 shell that I'm going to remove some excess stuff from, and then compare it to my series 1 shell to see what the weight difference is between the two as a bare chassis.

Someone on here - I forget who - had a 510 with a turbo L6 in it that I am quite sure had a T56 behind it. I'll have to see if I can find out who it was. Edit: The owner of that car was 510six, who appears to still be around - profile shows activity 3 days ago. Here's a thread that discusses it a bit: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95242-the-t56-to-an-l28-kit-its-been-done-look-and-see/ Edit: More: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/71185-t56-behind-l-series-how-it-was-done/

280 to the wheels so probably 330hp or so. I didn't notice the shaved drip rails, and that would be a deal breaker for me. They serve a function, and if they aren't done right, that could be a real pain in the ass to fix. Looking at the rest of the car, I'd be concerned.

But you don't get the value of a car from adding up the receipts. I'm not really seeing 9.5k worth of car there. I'm probably out of the loop on current prices, but I wouldn't pay 9.5k for that. Honestly, it doesn't look that nice. The seats, the dash, the wheels, the fact that it has a 4spd (why?), although those 4spds are worth some good money. The floors were replaced, but did they do a good job? It has clearly had body work. Was it done right? How about the wiring? I don't see anything that suggests quality. It looks like it was thrown together.

Yeah I'd pass on that. That's more of a project than a usable truck.

Yes, more video. Drive by, take off, etc. Honestly, I don't think you could possibly take too much video. Regarding the vintage sound, i wonder if it's because there's no variable valve timing system. I've heard a video of an S54 with no VANOS, and it sounds much meaner, although it still doesn't sound like this motor does, and still sounds newish to me.

Now you made me go back and look harder. Picture 12 is worrying. I don't know which side is which, but I think I see exactly one tac weld there. Not even a bead. Just a tac. WTF. Nice big gap between the rail and the floor there too on the right side of the picture. Kinda suggests there's nothing holding the two together.

I noticed that too. I'm only a novice welder, but my gut is telling me that those welds need improvement. And I'm quite certain the frame rails need more frequent welds, and they should be spot welds. The original floors along with the trans tunnel are one big piece of metal, so the problem is that if you replace the floors, you can't do it 100% factory. If I were replacing the floors, I would drill out the spot welds on three sides (front, rear, along rocker), and slice through the trans tunnel side with a grinder. I would reattach the new floor pan with spot welds on those three sides, and as for the fourth side, it's a little up in the air. I've seen guys make a flange, and spot weld the floors in like factory on all four sides, there's the option of butt-welding it in, and I've also seen people overlap the two a bit, and seam weld both sides. Personally, I think I'd go for option 1. One last thing - as a general rule of thumb, if it came out with spot welds, it should go back in with spot welds. I think the guy at the first shop you went to didn't know what he was doing. I can't see what the second shop did since there's seam sealer over the welds.