rturbo 930

Do you know anyone who is decently proficient with computers? You seem to be having quite a bit of trouble, and I think it would be easier if you had someone physically there to help you. Doesn't have to be a kid, anyone who can figure it out will do. If you need help with the site, you should create a thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/24-site-support/

That's definitely it. Terrible ad though. At the very least could have provided some background instead of just "familiarize yourself." Not sure why he posted on CL instead of on here for a car that belongs to a very specific market.

Sounds good! Not like I was expecting, interestingly. Sounds pretty vintage actually, I think. I'd move the mic away from the exhaust. You're getting a lot of distortion there.

Good to see the car going back together. What's weird is that it never occurred to me that I could put insulation in my garage without dry-walling over it. How long did it take you to insulate it? I would love some insulation, a bit of heat, and more than two(!) goddamn outlets. And some maybe even some light.

I found this thread using the new content button, so it's working fine for me. Usually if there's no new content, it means that there is nothing new since your last visit. If you haven't visited in a while, then maybe there's a glitch or something going on.

Yeah, I don't know about the price. Mind you, that's 10k, and reserve not met, so the price he expects to get is even higher. A few years ago I would have laughed, but with prices going up, it might be worth it. I haven't been keeping up. But it's supply and demand. For someone that wants one, a 250 GTO body conversion already partly or mostly completed could be worth some coin, since they aren't exactly common. As for pricing, a few years ago I was seeing fairly nice, unrestored series 1 cars listed for around $16-18k. Nice original cars that needed a bit of work, but generally in good shape. Right now there is a nice series 1 240z with a BIN of $25,600, a modified RB20 swapped 240z for $20k, and finally a white, so-called 72 240z with SBC for $30k. Look closely and you'll see it's a late 280z that even has a 280Z VIN, not sure what's up with that. Given all that, 10k almost seems reasonable.

I'm guessing you're using the quick reply box to post - that's the one that's at the bottom of each thread. If you look to the right of the 'Post' button, you'll see the 'More Reply Options' button. From there you can attach your files, using the tools just below the text box. I'm not sure what's going on with your email. Which email shows up in the email and password form? This link should take you there if you can't find it: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=usercp&tab=core&area=email That's the form you will need to use to change your email. My gut feeling is that you are trying something different. If you try to re-register on a forum, it will usually tell you that your email address is already in use. Hope that helps. Let us know if you're still having trouble.

Have you made any progress on the rusty old datsun?

Nope, doesn't do anything for stiffness. Not a fan of it being mounted on the wheel wells either. From what I've read, the chassis flexes at the front and rear bulkheads. That would be the firewall on the front (hence why a triangulated strut brace is recommended), and roughly where the dogleg/rear floor seam is at the rear. Apparently the solution to stiffening the rear is a welded roll bar. My plan is to attach it to the chassis just in front of the wheel wells, the strut towers, and gusset the main hoop to the roof. Also, I should mention that I want to have a harness installed too, but only for off-street use. Edit: I've been doing some research. I found this thread on classiczcars where member dorodox made his own seat belt, although he works at a seat belt company and has access to these things. However it got me thinking that this could be the best route. The stock belts, which are now 41 years old, use two retractors, one on the strut tower, one on the floor. It needs to because the buckle doesn't move on the belt like newer ones do. So I'm thinking If I can get a new seat belt made that has a retractor mounted on the strut tower, and a fixed mount that bolts to the stock location on the rocker - which is how it is mounted in a 240z with non-retracting belts - that would most likely get the job done. I think I've got this all straight. Just need to find a reputable place that can make it. I'm also thinking maybe I could use the rear seat belts out of a newer car. Reason being, it seems like all the front seat belts have the retractor mounted at the bottom of the door pillar, which likely wouldn't work for my case, whereas the rear belts in a sedan usually have the retractor located in the parcel shelf. In theory, that would make it an easy swap. Much easier to do than custom seat belts.

Okay, I'm currently in the planning stage, trying to make sure everything will work together. This is where I'm having an issue. I have a 76 280z, so it has retractable seat belts that mount in the pocket on the floor, and to the strut tower. I want to do a 4pt roll bar, partly for chassis stiffness, partly for safety. I also want to maintain the stock seat belts for street use. The problem is that, as far as I can tell, the main hoop needs to land right where the floor pocket is. I don't see how it could go anywhere else. Does anyone have a creative solution? I really can't think of anything, at least not anything that uses the factory 280Z belts. If there's a different 3pt retractable belt that doesn't need the inertia reel mounted in the floor pocket, that could work, but it would also need to mount to the strut tower, not the roof pillar like the earlier cars. The shoulder portion of the stock belt is connected to the lap portion by a rivet(?) that could be removed, so if a franken-seat belt could be done safely, I would consider that, but personally I think that seems sketchy. Ideas?

+1. If it's because you need funding, I'd rather just make a donation. Ads are a pain in the ass.

Interesting, haven't seen those before. What do they weigh? Comfortable?

Didn't know Tokico did that. Good to know, though. Thanks.

No, he needs new ones. 240Z struts are 51mm, 280Z are 55mm, I believe that's ID, not OD. Pretty sure those are the right numbers. Even if they aren't, the point is the same - they're different and the shock won't fit. Yeah, he could cut it down, but it would be easier to just get an early strut. Not worth the effort unless you're doing coilovers. I believe the stub axles will swap over. First though, we should confirm you have an early 260Z. Does it have smaller bumpers more like a 240Z, or the big 5mph crash bumpers the 280Z had?

Of course it's sitting too high. 280Z rear struts don't fit 240Zs and vice versa. 280Z rear strut towers are taller by about 2.5", the taller rear strut tops make up about 1" of that. The rest is in the strut. You need 70-74 rear struts, assuming it is in fact an early 260Z.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Ferrari-Other-Datsun-/182401959014?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a78010466:g:9jsAAOSwux5YNopm&item=182401959014 Might be a good start for someone here looking to build one. I don't know about the price, 10k and reserve not met, but then again, prices on classic cars have been shooting up, so maybe it's worth that. No idea. Found this funny One of his references looks more like an exact(?) replica, not a Datsun with a body kit. $800k? Yeah right.

Are they steel or fiberglass? Also depends if they're just tacked on, or if they did it properly (not guaranteed) by cutting out the wheel arches. Personally I'd want to cut them off and start over.

I can understand why you'd want to speak swedish if it's easier for you to articulate your thoughts, but in the future, it would be better to use english. Some of us may have had your same questions, but can't read them without a translator, so it doesn't do the rest of us much good. If you visit the rules page on the forum, you will see that this is addressed in rule #5.

443 @ .5" lift? Isn't that about double what a ported P90 does? Did I get that right? Wow. Did you ever get a driving video of the one in your Z? I'm dying to hear this thing at WOT.

What kind of power are you shooting for? Is an R180 going to hold up? Those wheels look good, probably the same, or similar design as the Watanabe RS/Minilites/etc. Available in a 17" too! Gonna bookmark that one.

Probably depends on how much damage there is, how they go about fixing it, and how much custom work it already has done on it. Looks like the damage is forward of the firewall, and the roof skin. Might be "easy" to just reskin the roof, and tube the front end. Either way, it'll be good to see this car fixed and on the road again.

I've never bought anything from Austin Hoke but having seen how he does things, I wouldn't hesitate to buy his product. As for your cage, I don't see any kind of triangulation. You'll need to do something about that.

This isn't the only way to address the problem. I think I recall John Coffey saying that he reinforced this area with a piece of 1/8" plate to stop flex. You could probably also brace that to the underside of the cowl if need be.

If I'm not mistaken, we actually have an entire thread here about the Tokico coil bind issue.

That's some very nice work!