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Everything posted by rturbo 930
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I wouldn't bother with that tabco rear corner. Compare it to the original, you'll see that the shape is quite a bit different. I was pretty disappointed when I found that out.
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Rota TBT's.... anyone running them?
rturbo 930 replied to The Infidel's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
That's a good looking wheel. Hoping it comes in 16/17". -
Anyone know where to get rear/hatch pans for S130?
rturbo 930 replied to subhuman's topic in S130 Series - 280ZX
I'll check it out later. Like I said, the body is really really rough. Floor boards? HA! Forget about it. Daily average temp is about 90 right now, and the interior smells strongly of mice, which isn't helped by the heat. Like you I have other stuff to do, lots of stuff has been happening around here over the past year, and there's a lot of clean up to do now. Figure either late Sept, or late Oct. I can hopefully get to it. I'll be out of town for 10 days in early October, so that's out. If you find something in the meantime, just let me know. -
shops that do turnkey ls 240z swap?
rturbo 930 replied to alphalonewolfxiong's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Check out these. http://arizonazcar.com/brakes.html -
Anyone know where to get rear/hatch pans for S130?
rturbo 930 replied to subhuman's topic in S130 Series - 280ZX
Are you in a hurry to get this piece? I have an '80 ZX parts car, and this section *might* be usable. Are you looking for only the area you outlined in red? Anyway, I need to get rid of this thing soon anyway, so I was gonna chop it up this fall, when it's cooler out. The body is really, really rough, but this part may still be good. I'll have to get a better look later. -
No rust? Is the spare dash crack free? If the body is as good as I think it is, plus the rebuilt L24, then I don't think you did too badly. Zs are not $500 cars anymore, especially not in that condition. I know there are people out there that absolutely must buy for the lowest possible price, but IMO paying a little more isn't the end of the world. I don't know how much longer you might have searched or what you might have paid for a comparable car, but I'd rather pay a little more, and have the car now, than wait and wait just to find a car for a little less money. Maybe you overpaid, but I wouldn't sweat it, especially if it's rust free. Rust repair is expensive, and it would be good to avoid that.
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Where to find 280z Rubber Bushing kits
rturbo 930 replied to Greeko's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
The rear strut rubber top mount is different on the 280z, and I think the rack bushings may be different. The rest I believe should be the same. -
Someone on here made a thread on some sort of TVR engine swap, but it never went anywhere. There was some concern about the engine being too tall to fit.
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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
rturbo 930 replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
On second thought, I think someone cut the battery tray out with a torch to fix another car, and let it sit for 10+ years. -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
rturbo 930 replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Battery acid, I bet. Can you get a few more angles? It looks bad, but not necessarily unfixable. How much rust on the rest of the car? How serious is the surface rust on the quarter panel? -
For your needs, I would go for a lightly built NA L28. A stock L28 makes about 170hp stock as far as I know, so you don't have far to go to reach your goals. What's the budget like? I'm thinking some porting and polishing, a cam, and Megasquirt would probably do it for you. Or even just a stock engine with Megasquirt and a good tune.
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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
rturbo 930 replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
7-8 years ago, a 72 911 was still somewhat affordable. As for the comment on series one cars, that person has no clue what he's talking about. Zs made up to January 1971 are series one cars, and they are quite a bit different than any of the others. For example, the entire chassis is made of thinner metal, which is why they are known to be lighter than any other year. Regarding a 280z based 240z tribute car, that's almost exactly what I'm going to be doing. 240z body work, dash, door cards, console, etc., on a 280z chassis. Partly because my 280z is in better shape than my 240z, but also because the 280z is a better chassis for a street car, and IMO combining the two would be the best of both worlds. It won't have any 240z badges on it though. -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
rturbo 930 replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I certainly wouldn't say that, especially if it's a series one car. There's a good reason most people go for the earlier cars. As for value? These cars, especially 240Zs are going up in price and won't be going back down. No, they will never get crazy like 911 prices, but that doesn't mean they're disposable. -
Homebuilt by Jeff just got a '71 240Z!
rturbo 930 replied to gogriz91's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Interesting! I'll subscribe. Thanks for sharing. -
Series 1 240z with out vented hatch
rturbo 930 replied to 5 Star Rising's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Pics of the hinges? Regarding doors, only doors from a series 1 car would be 'correct' in that they would have been made with the same gauge metal. 71.5-72 doors are otherwise identical and will fit. 73-76 doors will also fit, but they have a much, much larger beam in the door for safety reasons. I don't know if the door beam changed between 73 and 76. Weight difference between my 12/70 door and 76 door is about 10 pounds with the newer style beam. 77-78 doors do not fit. You should post a build thread on here when you get into it. -
The rust you see is rarely if ever the full extent of it. Expect to find more, possibly a lot more. If you want to get a car with as little rust as possible, I'd avoid that one. Your best bet may be getting a car from a dry state. That's what I'd do if I did it all over again. Of course, if it's cheap enough, you may as well give it a shot, and if it doesn't work out, then you've got yourself a parts car.
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240 & 260 front body panels interchangable??
rturbo 930 replied to VT240zed's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Fenders are nearly the same (holes for the emblems are different 240z vs 280z), hoods are the same 70-76, 77-78 hoods have vents, but will bolt on if you like. Cowl panels are the same Valance panels are the same from 70-74. If that 260z is an early model, then they'll swap over. Is the damage really that bad that it needs a rad support and a frame rail? Looks like just a little fender bender. Those pieces should swap over too though, if it's an early 260z. -
My '72 240z project -- Rotisserie Restomod
rturbo 930 replied to jkelly's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Prefab. Getting floors from a donor doesn't make sense to me. Either they are more than likely rotted out like the rest, or if they aren't, the car probably shouldn't be cut up. Seems like the prefab floors are actually pretty decent anyway. Speaking of, the prefab floors for a 280z don't look much like the original floors.- 76 replies
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- restoration
- metal fabrication
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My '72 240z project -- Rotisserie Restomod
rturbo 930 replied to jkelly's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
240z floors are really simple compared to that of a 280z. Much easier to put the new rails on, since the 280z baddog rails don't have a flange, which means you have to make one. Also easier to do custom seat mounts, again because the floors are flat. My floors aren't in great shape, so I figured I may as well.- 76 replies
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- restoration
- metal fabrication
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My '72 240z project -- Rotisserie Restomod
rturbo 930 replied to jkelly's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Must feel good to have that out of the way. I'm not looking forward to doing my floors. Gonna be doing 240z floors and frame rails in a 280z. Deleting the trans tunnel hump. Way more work.- 76 replies
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- restoration
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Definitely not. You're mixing two totally different styles there, and they don't mix. The stock Z exterior is pretty damn good to begin with, I don't really understand why people want to change it.
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Quality aside - I firmly believe that you get what you pay for - I have a major problem with Chinese business ethics, which is about all I can say without breaking the forum rules. I'd much rather get a crank made by Kameari (or similar) or something custom made in the US, AUS, or Canada. Europe would be fine too. Not to mention, with that option you can spec the stroke to whatever you want.
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Chinese crankshaft? I'd rather not.
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Zinc plated bolts.
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Why is that? That's exactly what I would suggest doing. And no wonder you're so exhausted if you're stripping the entire car with a wire wheel! You're using the wrong tool for the job. Go get the car media blasted, I think you'll be glad you did.