rturbo 930

Keep which parts metal? You listed several problem areas. The floors need to be repaired with metal. I don't know how badly your door is rusted, but I would either cut and weld the rusty metal, or buy another door that is in good condition. As for the rear bumper area, I'm guessing you mean the body work on the car, not the bumper itself. Again, cut out the rust metal, weld in new metal. IMO welding in new metal is the only acceptable way to fix rust, especially on the chassis.

I don't think they do nearly as much as a roll bar, and triangulated strut tower bars do. I believe (don't quote me) John had the Z chassis analyzed at one point and found that the chassis flexed like a hinge at the front and rear bulk heads, which are roughly at the firewall, and at the rear door jamb. I'm just a reader here, so take that with a grain of salt. Unfortunately John is no longer with us to answer these questions himself. This is my best understanding of what he has said. To answer your question, I would go with SFCs from http://baddogparts.com/ although you have a 2+2 which complicates things slightly.

300hp isn't really "high power." It's plenty in a Z, but not really that much. 500hp+ is a different story. SunnyZ and Keith both have a good deal more than 300hp. These are John Coffey's suggestions for a street car. 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. All that should be sufficient if you only plan on 300hp.

Does anyone know what John Coffey's hoods weighed? I think they were less than even Top Stage's full carbon hood. And 22lbs for a carbon hood is just embarrassing.

Yeah, I don't think your 6 puck clutch is going to be as nice to drive, but that has more to do with the clutch than the flywheel. I don't know who was saying they need to launch at 2-3k, but I'd take a guess that they have no idea how to drive, or they have something that's really only meant for race cars. My Z was not only surprisingly easy to drive compared to my expectations, but actually just easy to drive period. I didn't find that it stalled out easily.

What exactly do you want to know? My NA L28 has a 10lb flywheel, I'm guessing it's a Fidanza (came with it), and a centerforce 2 clutch. Cam is a mild Crane Cam, also has triple webers and ported/polished head, basically a mild street motor. I don't know what exactly you're concerned about, but the first time I drove it, I found it surprisingly easy to drive. Would be easier yet if my carbs were tuned right and didn't cut out under 3krpm. IMO, if you want a lightweight flywheel, just go and get one.

Yeah, I think that dude may have smoked just a little bit of crack before listing it. I don't follow prices on these things, but I think the last one I saw for sale was around $700.

I think you mean Ford 8.8 Diff swap. Anyway, I'll be following this one. I didn't care for the amount of things you have to change out to use Fritt's conversion. My plan was the following: 8.8 Diff, mounts, etc. DSS stub axles 930 CVs Custom length axle shaft And an adapter to go between the 930 CV and the factory stub axle, like you'd use to convert to Z31 CVs. Chequered Flag Joe actually makes that adapter, but only in 39 spline, I believe, and he sells it as part of a kit. I'm interested to see what you come up with. Something a little less spendy would be nice.

Got it, I don't use the classifieds much. Anyway, as for the OP I think I know what happened. Going through his previous posts, he's specifically targeting Steve Bailey. I'm guessing he was screwed by Steve on another forum, and found our site, which Steve has apparently been posting on, and decided to alert us of his practices.

I thought you had to be a donating member to sell parts here? I agree with jeffer, does seem strange.

No, he's right, and I had the exact same thought, and I fully agree with his suggestions. Just because your car seemed stiffer when you took it off the jack stands doesn't mean it's a good cage. Quite honestly, I'd remove it and start over. Have a good shop design one for you instead. 76+ Zs with strut tower mounted seat belts don't have the threaded nut in the C pillar like the earlier cars do, so he can't really do that. He can either work the cage design around the stock seat belts (which is what I plan to do) or ditch them and go with harnesses.

Lol no, that's overkill. But I would say some kind of structure that goes from the front strut towers to the rear strut towers. Mind you, I am not any kind of expert, mostly going with my gut based on all that I've read here over the years. Look into what 74 5.0L Z did on his tube frame. Again, I'm not saying you need a tube frame, but his design goes from the rear strut towers all the way to the front, but doesn't have an A pillar or roof bar, so it's still reasonably safe on the street. 800HP is a lot of power, and when unleashed all at once, that's going to really stress the chassis. Also, another thought... I'm betting you're going to need to reinforce the front diff mount, and surrounding area.

If you're planning on having 800hp, and launching it, I think you're gonna need more than what's on John's list for a street car.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/53266-the-primadonna-z-story-56k/page-4

So that's the missing red car? Hope it goes to a good home.

This is the one I saw: http://www.inyoregister.com/content/motorcycle-wreck-claims-one-life

Those wheels are sick. Are they one off, or available for purchase? BTW if you want to shave some weight, I might suggest removing the rear subframe reinforcement on the rear deck, and the impact bumper support structure in the front and rear if you haven't done that yet. That should all be good for at least 20lbs, probably more.

RIP John. More discussion here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55338-rip-john-coffey/ Where did you see the announcement?

I don't know who makes them now, but johnc made stub axles for the Subaru R180 that bolted up to stock halfshafts. They weren't cheap ($500 a pair I think), but that would be an easy solution. I believe he passed them onto Wolf Creek Racing, but the owner of that business sadly died, so I don't know where you would get them now. But I think that would be the easiest and simplest option by far. BTW, what exactly is different about your european market 240z? I can't imagine it could be that drastically different that US spec stuff wouldn't fit.

No surprise, you're way ahead of me. I just ordered a handful of flap discs in different grits, should be able to get much better results with those than the one worn out mystery flap disc I have now. Regarding TIG vs MIG, as far as I know, a TIG weld will be softer than the surrounding metal, and a MIG weld will be harder than the surrounding metal (or something to that effect), so your TIG welds should be easier to blend than my MIG welds (no TIG sadly). My biggest issue at the moment is how fat my welds are. I'm a novice welder at best, so I'm sure there's a way to get em to lay flatter, but I haven't figured that out just yet.

What method are you using to smooth your welds out? This is something I'm also working on improving at the moment.

Shit, by the work you're doing, I thought you liked rust repair.

From what I know, asbestos is only dangerous if it's disturbed, if you don't touch it it's fine. Because you have to handle it to install/remove it, I'd be slightly hesitant.

Looks great! Gonna keep this one for more than a few months?

I think you've got the right idea. Get a stock L28, maybe some SUs, a 5 speed, and toss it in. Simple and reliable. And the L series is a motor that's really easy to love, too. You don't need 400hp to have fun in a Z. Not by a long shot.