rturbo 930

Yeah, that's the same area. Tomorrow I will see about removing the cowl and fender to get a better pic. On my previous 240z, I cut the roof off in almost the exact same spot the crack is in on the new 240z. Without a doubt, there is lead in that area. It didn't have the shine of sheet metal, but did have the shine of lead, a lot like in the picture at the end of my post and certainly looked like it was used as filler. I'll get a pic of this too. I poked at it with a screw driver, and like I said, it was FAR too soft to be sheet metal. It is, without a doubt in my mind, lead filler. I can't think of anything else it could be. I don't blame you for being concerned, and thinking it's a crack in the sheet metal. That's exactly what I thought too! Anyway, tomorrow I will try to get pics of the area on both cars with cowl and fender removed. Thanks again for your input.

Go through the stickies in the brake and suspension forum. There's one that discusses a lot of the popular brake upgrades. Another discusses struts, etc. Lots of good info there. If you still have questions, do a search - you should be able to find the answer to your question. A lot of topics/subjects have been covered here.

On classiczcars.com, it seems the rule of thumb is if it's a series 1, it should be left stock. But this is HybridZ, so that doesn't really apply here . My thoughts are more or less that cars under ~8k should be left more or less alone, condition pending, and series 1 cars in general shouldn't be hacked up too much. Just my personal opinion. That said, I'll probably end up putting an RB into my series 1, which is #17955. 11154 is a pretty low production number, but it was a lot higher than I expected for a '70. From what I've seen a VIN that high would be titled as a '71. Logan1, that looks like a pretty nice, clean, early car to start with. Good luck with it. Do you know what you want to do with it?

As stated above, the vertical defroster lines aren't all that rare, since all '70, '71 240z had them, as well has '72 240z's built in or before 12/71. The hatch vents, and side emblems are only found on series 1 cars, so you could say they're rare. The knob on the gas door isn't really rare, it's found on all '70 and '71 cars. Depends what you call rare, I guess. Some other parts that are only found on the series 1 cars (like yours), are the steering wheel, dash (glove box lock is different from later '71 dashes), I believe the map light, seats (I think), and depending on the build date/VIN of your car, could be quite a few other parts. Logan1, what is the VIN of your car? Just curious.

The vertical heating strips came on all 240zs built up until 12/71. The exhaust looks to be a twice pipe setup, if I'm not mistaken. Looks like a pretty clean car to start with. What is the VIN? What are your plans for the car?

What do you mean? It is lead. I made an attempt to check the depth of the crack with a thin piece of paper, and it was roughly 1/16" of an inch, I think. 1/8" at the very most, I don't recall. It was obviously hitting something. There was lead at that spot on another 240Z I cut up, roughly the same depth. It's definitely lead, much too soft to be sheet metal. My floor pans are pretty solid, with only minor rust issues. There was water in my car when I got it, but, a) it was in the back of the passenger side floor, and the car traveled through a pretty serious rain storm to get to my house. I'd like to have the lead melted out and the area inspected, but that costs money, which I don't have, so for now it stays. Thanks for the input though. Just to make sure, were you aware that area was a place they used lead (I know I wasn't)? If not, does that change what you just said, knowing that it is lead, and not the sheet metal?

Well, I can't post in there so I'll post here. I saw that on ebay a while back, no wonder it looked familiar! Looks like a REALLY clean original car. I take it you're keeping it stock? Good luck with it.

Looks mostly like surface rust that could be easily fixed with a wire wheel, but I can't really tell from the pics how bad it is. The roll pan looks to be made entirely out of bondo though - that can't be good. I agree with aziza z that a 280z is a better candidate for a V8 swap than a 240z for the same reasons - however, TONS of people have put the V8 in a 240z without problems. Just stiffen up the chassis a bit if you do, and you should be fine.

Well, this is it. Saw it for sale, relatively rust free, certainly more so than my previous 240Z. Jumped on it immediately and got it for $500 as a roller. Doesn't have a dash, motor, tranny, radiator, and some other misc parts, but otherwise is pretty much all there. Came with a center console, but not the original. I'm assuming it came from a '73 since I found another VIN tag for the dash that was from a '73 240Z in the hatch. It has a little more rust than I was expecting (this is the east coast after all...) but it's overall pretty solid and certainly salvageable. Don't plan on doing much rust repair for a while, since I bought the car with one thing in mind: driving it. That said, the L28 with triple webers will be going in once I get the wiring figured out - it was rewired with a Painless kit. Following that, I'll try to get my '72 240z seats and dash in it, and hopefully get it on the road. It has MSA springs, KYB struts, ST sway bars. There's a lot of little details I've left out, but it would take forever to type them up. Alright, now onto the pics. These are from when I first got it - something I actually remembered to do this time. And this is... has me very puzzled. At first I was worried it was rust - nope not rust. So I thought it was bondo - nope, not bondo either (THANK GOD). So I took a file to it, and found the bumps went down rather quickly and revealed metal. Okay, so it's lead. According to the PO it's been like that the whole time he'd had it, and didn't change, so I'm not too worried about it, but I'm still curious as to WTF would cause that... And here's some rust I uncovered. It's the only rust I'm really concerned about. I poked at it a bit, and I think (hope) the pics make it look worse than it actually is. All the other rust is just some bits in the floors, a little in the front of the rocker, some small (dime sized or less) spots in various random places on the car, and the hatch is pretty much rusted out. Doglegs will need to be replaced eventually, but are still fairly solid as far as I can tell. There's a bit of near the top of the roll pan, bottom of drivers fender, and a few other misc plates. Battery tray is solid, frame rails looked solid as well, with just one spot at the rear of the drivers engine bay rail that always rusts out. Looks like it's not even all the way through. Anyway, that's all for now. Not a lot I can do at the moment, need to get the wiring sorted, and engine in. Following that, we'll see. I really want to get that rust on the A pillars fixed before I do any kind of hard driving in it. I'd also really like to get that mess on the B pillar investigated and fixed, since I have NO idea what would cause that. Oh, and pardon the blurry pics. Although I'm no photographer, I didn't realize they were that blurry

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149298 Someone beat you to it However, that thread says it's the August issue, and your thread says July. Which is it?

Got any better pics? Oh, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did the whole thing cost you?

Doesn't run. Keeps me out of trouble.

Wow That's a lot of tire. Looks good BTW.

Seems like pretty impressive fuel economy. More than I thought it was able to do.

It already is fast. Look at the date the thread was made.

Bump I recently bought a 1971 240Z and noticed it has cracks (and some other weird stuff that I don't think is related) in the drivers side B pillar, and at the bottom of the A pillar, and shows some faint signs of cracks under the paint in the pass. side B pillar. The A pillar crack seems pretty big to me though, is it normal for it to look like this? I just want to make sure it's nothing to worry about, and that I can safely drive the car. I plan on chassis reinforcement later on, but not for a while, aside from strut tower bars. The car has MSA springs and what seems to be some pretty big sway bars. They're definitely bigger than what's on my 280z. Anyway, here is a pic of the crack, I know it's lead, but it still seems a bit big to me. Let me know what you guys think.

Yes - I signed up for another forum, and they had it set up such that before they would activate your account, you had to read the rules and PM the admin. However, at the bottom, it had a certain PM subject title you had to use and a word that HAD to be somewhere in the content. If you messed it up, you didn't get to play, and obviously, they would immediately know if you didn't read the rules. If that system were automated, I think it would be a good system to implement. Especially in the classifieds. It seems that NO ONE reads the rules in there.

Great, those are major parts of my diet. At least I know what to expect!

Like I said, I may be mistaken. Thanks for the correction.

If it has 280z style turn signals, it's a late 260z. Yours is easy though, since, as far as I know, there is no early 2+2 of any kind. I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure. And yes, late 260zs are more or less 280zs, and early is like the 240z. Hope that helps...

I'm registered on probably 40 or so or more, but I am only really active on two, and have about 4 more on top of that that I check into every once in a while when I'm bored.

Three times for me, one being yesterday. Glad it's being worked out. Although, could be a good idea to have it come up before posting threads in the classifieds...

Pretty sure they're 20 gauge sheet metal. Should be, anyway.

Zero, why not try to find a 330ci? It'll be a bit cheaper, and while not as fast, I would expect it to be satisfactory for daily driving.

NO! It was old a year ago.