rturbo 930

What do you mean? It is lead. I made an attempt to check the depth of the crack with a thin piece of paper, and it was roughly 1/16" of an inch, I think. 1/8" at the very most, I don't recall. It was obviously hitting something. There was lead at that spot on another 240Z I cut up, roughly the same depth. It's definitely lead, much too soft to be sheet metal. My floor pans are pretty solid, with only minor rust issues. There was water in my car when I got it, but, a) it was in the back of the passenger side floor, and the car traveled through a pretty serious rain storm to get to my house. I'd like to have the lead melted out and the area inspected, but that costs money, which I don't have, so for now it stays. Thanks for the input though. Just to make sure, were you aware that area was a place they used lead (I know I wasn't)? If not, does that change what you just said, knowing that it is lead, and not the sheet metal?

Well, I can't post in there so I'll post here. I saw that on ebay a while back, no wonder it looked familiar! Looks like a REALLY clean original car. I take it you're keeping it stock? Good luck with it.

Looks mostly like surface rust that could be easily fixed with a wire wheel, but I can't really tell from the pics how bad it is. The roll pan looks to be made entirely out of bondo though - that can't be good. I agree with aziza z that a 280z is a better candidate for a V8 swap than a 240z for the same reasons - however, TONS of people have put the V8 in a 240z without problems. Just stiffen up the chassis a bit if you do, and you should be fine.

Well, this is it. Saw it for sale, relatively rust free, certainly more so than my previous 240Z. Jumped on it immediately and got it for $500 as a roller. Doesn't have a dash, motor, tranny, radiator, and some other misc parts, but otherwise is pretty much all there. Came with a center console, but not the original. I'm assuming it came from a '73 since I found another VIN tag for the dash that was from a '73 240Z in the hatch. It has a little more rust than I was expecting (this is the east coast after all...) but it's overall pretty solid and certainly salvageable. Don't plan on doing much rust repair for a while, since I bought the car with one thing in mind: driving it. That said, the L28 with triple webers will be going in once I get the wiring figured out - it was rewired with a Painless kit. Following that, I'll try to get my '72 240z seats and dash in it, and hopefully get it on the road. It has MSA springs, KYB struts, ST sway bars. There's a lot of little details I've left out, but it would take forever to type them up. Alright, now onto the pics. These are from when I first got it - something I actually remembered to do this time. And this is... has me very puzzled. At first I was worried it was rust - nope not rust. So I thought it was bondo - nope, not bondo either (THANK GOD). So I took a file to it, and found the bumps went down rather quickly and revealed metal. Okay, so it's lead. According to the PO it's been like that the whole time he'd had it, and didn't change, so I'm not too worried about it, but I'm still curious as to WTF would cause that... And here's some rust I uncovered. It's the only rust I'm really concerned about. I poked at it a bit, and I think (hope) the pics make it look worse than it actually is. All the other rust is just some bits in the floors, a little in the front of the rocker, some small (dime sized or less) spots in various random places on the car, and the hatch is pretty much rusted out. Doglegs will need to be replaced eventually, but are still fairly solid as far as I can tell. There's a bit of near the top of the roll pan, bottom of drivers fender, and a few other misc plates. Battery tray is solid, frame rails looked solid as well, with just one spot at the rear of the drivers engine bay rail that always rusts out. Looks like it's not even all the way through. Anyway, that's all for now. Not a lot I can do at the moment, need to get the wiring sorted, and engine in. Following that, we'll see. I really want to get that rust on the A pillars fixed before I do any kind of hard driving in it. I'd also really like to get that mess on the B pillar investigated and fixed, since I have NO idea what would cause that. Oh, and pardon the blurry pics. Although I'm no photographer, I didn't realize they were that blurry

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149298 Someone beat you to it However, that thread says it's the August issue, and your thread says July. Which is it?

Got any better pics? Oh, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did the whole thing cost you?

Doesn't run. Keeps me out of trouble.

Wow That's a lot of tire. Looks good BTW.

Seems like pretty impressive fuel economy. More than I thought it was able to do.

It already is fast. Look at the date the thread was made.

Bump I recently bought a 1971 240Z and noticed it has cracks (and some other weird stuff that I don't think is related) in the drivers side B pillar, and at the bottom of the A pillar, and shows some faint signs of cracks under the paint in the pass. side B pillar. The A pillar crack seems pretty big to me though, is it normal for it to look like this? I just want to make sure it's nothing to worry about, and that I can safely drive the car. I plan on chassis reinforcement later on, but not for a while, aside from strut tower bars. The car has MSA springs and what seems to be some pretty big sway bars. They're definitely bigger than what's on my 280z. Anyway, here is a pic of the crack, I know it's lead, but it still seems a bit big to me. Let me know what you guys think.

Yes - I signed up for another forum, and they had it set up such that before they would activate your account, you had to read the rules and PM the admin. However, at the bottom, it had a certain PM subject title you had to use and a word that HAD to be somewhere in the content. If you messed it up, you didn't get to play, and obviously, they would immediately know if you didn't read the rules. If that system were automated, I think it would be a good system to implement. Especially in the classifieds. It seems that NO ONE reads the rules in there.

Great, those are major parts of my diet. At least I know what to expect!

Like I said, I may be mistaken. Thanks for the correction.

If it has 280z style turn signals, it's a late 260z. Yours is easy though, since, as far as I know, there is no early 2+2 of any kind. I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure. And yes, late 260zs are more or less 280zs, and early is like the 240z. Hope that helps...

I'm registered on probably 40 or so or more, but I am only really active on two, and have about 4 more on top of that that I check into every once in a while when I'm bored.

Three times for me, one being yesterday. Glad it's being worked out. Although, could be a good idea to have it come up before posting threads in the classifieds...

Pretty sure they're 20 gauge sheet metal. Should be, anyway.

Zero, why not try to find a 330ci? It'll be a bit cheaper, and while not as fast, I would expect it to be satisfactory for daily driving.

NO! It was old a year ago.

Simple way to tell - If the VIN is RLS30-XXXXXX then it's a 260z. HLS30-XXXXXX was used for 240zs and 280zs.

Really nice fence, Dave. Here's where I live (parents house).

Looks like I'm down about 40. Weird.

Once exceeded you'll probably wish you only had a broken foot. No thanks!

+1 Looks great, as always!