BayAreaZT

What I always wanted but never got around to making is a speadsheet with every part listed broken down in sections like engine, body, suspension, etc. Under each part you can list factory part number, all vendors selling the part, vendor part number, price, hyperlinks, etc. Maybe someone can make a template and everyone fill in what they can.

I was considering putting these on my hood. http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/louvers.php They sell them on ebay.

Looks like you're well on your way to 300+ hp. I'm running a very similar setup that I'm starting to dial in. Main differences are stock turbo manifold, t03/t04, and 420cc injectors. I have one of James Thagards old intake manifold that I still need to install. I'm shooting for 300 at the wheels too Good luck on the build.

I got icice a japanese mag that showed that kit in it. The car with that kit had full leather diamond stitch interior to go with it.

Someone did it on his 510 wagon. Heres the old post. Pics are gone though. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93469&highlight=510+shifter

About buying stuff off yahoo Japan, I found this site. http://www.rinkya.com/ You basically pay a bunch of middleman fees. There are restrictions on what kind of car parts you can buy too.

Thanks for the link Nigel. I must have missed that when I was on their site.

I inherited my maps and I'm trying to fine tune it the best I can until I get my wideband. I feel good about my RPM/Fuel/IGN maps but I don't think my MP/Fuel map is right. It ramps up fairly steep from a value of 79@0psi all the way up to 186@16psi. Can someone post what the MP should look like since I've never seen the preset settings. Just the shape of the curve would be helpfull since I can play with the numbers until it's close. I'm only running stock boost for now.

Maserati V8

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Everything grounded solid? Post your settings if you have them on a speadsheet.

I alternate 44 hours one week, 36 hours the next. Every other Friday off. Maybe 6-10 hours a week playing poker.

Funny I ran into that last night too when I was browsing through vintage Ferraris just cause I was bored.

Ok, so basically whatever you want to log, you tap into the signal going into the SDS brain? I'm just a little confused because the RPM convertor gives you additional inputs to log more sensors but the description of the LM-1 says this "The instrument can sample and store 6 channels of data- air-fuel-ratio and up to 5 other sensor data channels...." Can it sample 6 channels without the RPM convertor? If it can, I don't think I need any additional inputs.

I understand SDS can now data log from a wideband with a software upgrade but unless I'm missing something, you can't download the data to a laptop for analysis. Ideally, I'd like to make a few runs and go back home to look at the data so I'm looking at picking up a LC-1 or LM-1 but I'm a litle confused between the two. Is the LC-1 the same as the LM-1 but without the standalone unit? To put it another way, can the LC-1 with a laptop do everything the LM-1 can do? If I get the LC-1 or LM-1, do I need the RPM convertor to log RPM with AFR? This is to tune a L28et with SDS.

If there are headlight covers, I'll take them.

Here's a fairly simple one using the 280z splash pan.

That sounds like a pretty good deal for 55k miles. My 99 SE has about 60k now and I haven't had any problems with it. It's uni-body so it rides more like a car than a truck. I vaguely remember something about exhaust manifolds cracking but was fixed on later ones. Don't remeber what years. Just a warning, if you have to change the spark plugs, #6 is a major PITA.

The wheels on the red car are actually 18"s. They should fit with honda adapters.

'71 240ZT Just picked it up recently so I'm still kinda sorting it out. DONE Took off the drag radials and put on Falkens to match the front. Strapped down the front diff mount as a temp fix. Tuned the SDS for better startup. TO DO Fix voltage drop problem. Voltage drops low enough to kill the engine when I turn on the headlights. It's also blowing fuses. I'm going to run relays to the headlights and maybe upgrade the GM alternator. Figure out where the T5 tranny is leaking fluid from. Install Euro tailights Replace seals/weatherstripping Dyno session for some baseline runs and fine tune my maps. Install new intake and compare numbers. Pick up a wideband O2 sensor PLANS G-nose, ZG flares, BRE wing Rebuild spare motor (stock pistons, TOGA bearings, ARP hardware) Suspension and Chassis (planning stage)

Try a new O2 sensor.

Which ever seats you get , I would say go with red. I think it would contrast well with the laguna seca blue. I wouldn't do anything else red in the interior though. Just the seats. Anymore red would be too much.

Ok, here are the steps we used. 1. Wash the car...duh 2. Wetsand with 1500 grit. Carefull not to take off to much. There are a few spots where I got the paint too thin but you can't really tell unless you look at a certain angle with the right lighting. 3. Rinse off the car and dry. 4. Buff with 3M rubbing compound. I Skipped the 2000 grit wetsand because I didn't want the paint to get to thin and I didn't think it was necassary. 5. Buff with Meguiars #2 Fine Cut Cleaner. 6. Wash the car again. 7. Buff with Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. 8. Wax the car. I used Mothers carnuba wax because I already had a bottle. 9. Step back, admire your work and BS with your buddies. Man thats a lot of work. Make sure you have plenty of beer stocked before you start.

I bought my last running L28et for about $250 or $300 (don't remember the exact price) without the ECU and harness. Typically junkyards want about $400 to $500 for them.

I'm sick too. Anyone want to send me a template.

It's icices's buffer. It's pretty old but it's an industrial quality one. Not a cheapo buffer.