Mike C

Mine was exactly the same before and after. I bought a 3.54 R200 from an 85 turbo car that had 12mm bolts. Gave $50 for it. I have a Yukon side gear puller so pulled the OEM bearings and re-used them. Drilling the ring gear is an exercise in futility IMO. Get some 12mm OD 10mm ID tube and cut spacers from it as John mentioned.

My Hurst shifter is actually quite a bit bigger in some ways than that one. I was able to use the stock console with a little trimming at the front of the opening. My shifter was the bolt-in for a Fox bodied Mustang. I ditched the goofy handle and bought the shortest pull back shifter that Hurst had in the catalog. I used my press to bend it about 1 1/2" closer to the driver. Here's a shot from SUmmit's site but you can't really see all of it:

I didn't modify my 240 at all. The shifter won't come out from the top, however. Mine is a 72 and I used a Hurst Competition Plus T5 shifter. The mods to the car they were talking about may be from an early 240 which IS different.

Was the polarity set on the Miller for solid wire and gas? Polarity set for flux core can make it do goofy things. SOrry to hear about the fire... I've never had a Miller welder, but I like my Miller plasma cutter! Keep us updated on the cage. Looks good so far. I've got the pro tools 105hd also. I've done some test bends in 2" .134 DOM and I'm gonna' be built like Arnold by the time my Jimmy cage is finished

That's pretty much it. The newer ones just have a cleaner case look. Lincoln bought Century from the Clore group last year so is the source for parts now. I paid right at $1200 for mine delivered. It has 100% duty cycle at 160 amps, and built in spot and stitch controls in addition to infinitely adjustable amperage and wire speed.

That's a Century. I have a 250 and like it pretty well. Nobody else could touch the power/duty cycle for the price when I got mine. Nice score. Sears.com has a newer one right now on clearance for $899, but it is only 210 amp.

Still need to sort out some low speed carburetion issues with the triples and put more miles on it. But she runs!

Get the car up and crawl underneath. You can get them off with a couple of box end wrenches.

Me! I've got a couple that we use. A '51 John Deere A (315 ci 2 cylinder) and a '44 Ford 2N.

North, South, East or West Austin? Your fab looks awesome and I'd love to see it up close. I'm 620/183 myself.

I think this method is MUCH more useful than just measuring the block weight. Who cares how much the block weighs? Total weight is the goal. If you were comparing traditional small block aluminum vs. iron, that would be relevent, but here this is more so IMO. Great post and keep it up! Personally, I thought LS2 Miata's post was not disrespectful and was poking fun at the billion dollar engineering programs.

If memory serves, the goal when gearing the car was to be at peak power 100 feet before the traps which resulted in fastest ET.

I'm with you. Nothing welds like a water cooled TIG! My steel welds look great. I have a little more practice that needs to be done for Aluminum. TOTALLY different animal. I've put brackets on my 2 Griffin radiators. I have one mounted in the Camaro, but I'm going to re-do inlet and outlet on the one for the Z so I need to order a couple of bends.

I have the ARP studs. Mine were only $110 from Summit but that was 3 years ago. And they are awesome. But they were special ordered since ARP had just introduced them so I had no price until the order arrived. I don't know that I would have bought them had I known in advance. But they do look cool. The L series motor has 17 studs, though. I left the Nissan one underneath the water neck since you can't see it from most directions.

I don't think so, but you never know!

Can't argue with the info, but the question was if he could do one or the other, which one would be best? No doubt the cam and the aftermarket heads would make more power, but the choices were stock aluminum heads (and I read the question as NOT replacing the cam) or cam and iron heads. Obviously, the cam and iron heads is the best choice $ per HP.

Cool. Gotta' like it when more than one problem is solved at a time!

Awesome. Looks like a nice, compact package. Amazing how eBay gets into people's wallets. They just don't shop around at all. What did the whole rig wind up at $?

If you can only do one or the other, do the cam. As anecdotal evidence, I had two friends who had Impala SS. A '94 that they pocket ported the iron heads and put a cam in it and a '96 that had AFR heads and SLP headers. Both cars had 2 1/2" exhaust systems Flowmaster on the '94 and Borla on the '96. The '94 put down 297 whp with the iron exhaust manifolds and the the '96 put down 267 whp. The guy with the '94 spent less than $500 while the '96 owner spent nearly $3000.

That is the older "ready to run" distributor. The housing is almost identical to a GM. The blue box is an ignition module that makes it self contained. I have the same distributor on my Camaro without the module trigger a 6T. For some reason, I like it better than the ready to run billlet that I have in my Jimmy, although they both work great. I guess it's the fact the module is so easily removed to bypass or service unlike the newer one.

I had that happen once. The loose rocker caused the pushrod to come out of the cup, and as soon as pressure came down again, bent the pushrod. Replace the one and use the above described method to lock them down.

As noted, 3.7, and why would it be a waste of your time REGARDLESS of the ratio? If you've been paying attention to LSD posts, EVERYONE is looking for one regardless of ratio. Gears are easy to find.

Mine are 100% better than when I got them. They were on a friend's car he bought in about '88 and drove daily til around '99. I bought car in '03. I pulled the carbs and drained them. Then re-installed on same motor when I put it in my car. Ran like crap. Pulled and cleaned carbs and it was better. Ordered rebuild kits, completely disassembled carbs (except for chokes... reading about stuck chokes and pullers etc. had me shying away.) Much better now. In reading the Weber sticky, it may be my idle jet is too small? Still think I'll get the LM-1 first then throw money at jets. YOu could pay for the LM-1 in no time just getting several jet sets!

I've done quite a bit of reading on the carbs. All of my other components appear to be just where they need to be, but the 115 main seems way out of line. I did not pull the chokes when I rebuilt the carbs, but I probably should of. I have a 45 accelerator pump jet 7850.1 idle jet holder 45 idle jet 7772.6 emulsion tube and the 115 main. All of these are appropriate for a 2.8l motor EXCEPT the main. I just want to get in the ball park when I buy jets. Guess I'll get the LM1 first. Thanks for the response!

Bueller...Bueller... Somebody help a guy out, please! Take 5 and pull a main from your 40 Del'lorto and save me some $$$$$!