1 tuff z

Pete, this may be a dumb question but...since the head is going to Slover and cam to ISKY [2 separate businesses], do I send the cam towers along with the head to the 'porter'? Or, do I have the cam ground first then send it along with the head & towers to the porter?

Many thanks for all the great advice guys! Per Tony D, I called yesterday both ISKY cams and Slover porting. Michael at Slover was very patient with my questions and gave me an estimate for the following: street [nothing too radical] port job, replace & hone valve guides, replace intake seats, enlarge exhaust seats, install larger intake & exhaust valves. I then spoke with Ron at ISKY, heard some great stories [we spoke a bit about his dad Ed after I figured out who he was. I had read a great 1 page article in Car & Driver last year-their 1 page interview they do each month inside the back page]. Ron's dad Ed is 94, still drives! Ron suggested [after he guided me about cam ID a bit of crude measuring of the unknown grind that came on the E31 head] I send the stock 280 cam for him to regrind. Also suggested I get matching valve springs & lash pads but he thought I might be able to use either set of lash pads I have from either the E31 or N47 heads. Ron thinks the FLZ cam may have been a BRE spec grind [based on the firewall end stamping]. Likely I'll send it to him to get specs measured. Pete, I let both Michael & Ron know I did NOT want or need to spend excessively on this nor did I need too much power [already have my LSx powered Z for that] and needed to keep this very reasonable. My estimate, based on what they both told me is I'll have everything [after shipping round trip NY to CA & back] for just under $2k. I'll assemble everything myself as well as checking wipe patterns on rocker arms, etc. Tomorrow I'm at Jimmy Z's shop [he's the billet machinest guy who makes Z parts] where we work on & store our ChumpCar [2002 Nissan Sentra] and can check the 280 block to see if there's a ridge top of the cylinders. Thanks for that heads up! Need to get back into my Frank H. "How to hot rod...Datsun" book again! Tonight I'll measure the E31 valves vs. N47 valves then ask Michael at Slover if the N47's will work. NewZed, I'm running Mikuni 44's [came on the FLZ], which I rebuilt after purchasing needed parts from Todd at Wolfcreek Racing. The venturis are smaller, I think Todd told me they're about a 42mm equivalent now. FLZ also came with a 6-2 header with 2-1 collector. Header appears to be in good condition and planning to use it.

Tony, thanks for chiming in. Suggestions for head & cam? I'm not knowledgeable in the cam area and would like to purchase a complete kit [cam, springs & lash pads] that i know would all work together.

NewZed, I haven't measured the E31 valves but do believe the head had some port-polish work done. The L28 had a head gasket issue and suspected the head had subsequently warped but I have not confirmed that [PO told me this when I purchased the 280z a few years ago as a parts Z] and I didn't want a head with the steel exhaust liners. I'm not building a high performance engine, just close to stock and reliable.

Andy, I have to say that you're posts certainly rank up there as most interesting and detailed [without being overly verbose]!

Nearly completed the disassembly of the L24 that came in the Fairlady Z I picked up last spring. Weak compression, wouldn't rev, etc. Figured since the original L20 was long gone I don't have to stay stock. I have an L28 [from 1978 280z with 100k miles on it] sitting on an engine stand so my brain says marry the E31 head with L28 block = greater displacement, a bit more HP & TQ without much fuss. I plan to assemble the engine & head myself and feel confident in doing so [done this 3 times successfully in the past for L's]. So I want to take the L28 block & E31 head to a machine shop and have them check to ensure that all is well but am uncertain precisely what questions to ask but have an idea, so here goes. L28 block Aside from the following [assuming I'm close] what else should I ask? Hot tank block then; Check crankshaft for any defects, spec main all journals to ensure within stock tolerances Check rods & pistons for same as above Check the bores for any irregularities & within tolerances Check deck is straight Assume all is ok, take home, install new main bearings, rod bearings & piston rings. Do or should I consider new wrist pins? Any other internal parts that should be replaced? E31 head Have pressure tested Notice that the top of 1 valve guide was broken off [where valve stem seal attaches] Replace just 1 valve guide or all 12? Check all the valves, valve seats, guides, spring seats Check cam [i believe it is aftermarket but no markings or way for me to properly ID] and specs if able Check rocker arms Check springs [believe there is a way to measure both tension & proper length] Check if straight, length & width Do I need to keep each valve in their respective 'holes'? You can either reply to this thread or email me directly [palermodavid13@gmail] Both myself & my Fairlady Z thank you in advance! David

I just pulled one last week from a 1978 L28 if that'll work for you.

Steve, remind us which coilover you're using please.

Well done, like the body colored flares. More pics of the interior and rear end please.

PM'd

Mine does not, but can't speak for others...

So far everything looks great.

I'm using a Ztek-Mfg billet hold down on my Z's [all 3 of them]. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polished-Billet-Z-Logo-Battery-Hold-Down-70-78-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-/251767563315?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a9e842433

PM'd

About 35f today, some light precipitation. Just finished clearing snow from the 15 roof mounted solar panels [not making power with that darn white blanket on them], moving the snow from the driveway & clearing our sidewalk. Time for a bit of relaxation now. Snow removal is a great augment to my regular weekly workout! Oh, and thanks for the great compliment of my Z.

Here's mine.

Ditto, great read & thanks for the link!

Ryan, I should have a set. Email me and I'll check for you after work today. palermodavid13@gmail.com

I have one, picked it up a few years ago. It's used, dual points, part #2563901. Don't have any other details though. email me if you'd like pictures. palermodavid13@gmail.com

I have a pair if you're still looking, pm me.

Here's mine, think it's the same as you're asking about. Purchased from Brian at ZCCJDM

Pictures of your setup would be great.

tonight [6-8p] we're at my friend jimmy's shop, he's a cnc guy and produces many of the billet z parts sold here. we'll be working on our nissan sentra chumpcar. there are a few z's there among other cool vehicles. if you're interested come visit: 15 McArdle St, Rochester, NY 14611

You at least have to visit the falls, daylight and at night - spectacular. You could ride the maid of the mist or jet boat. Clifton hill [Canadian side] has a lot of foot traffic, shops & restaurants. There are a few hbz members in the area, I'm in Rochester [90 minutes or less east] if you want to take a drive.

Keith, I drove a Subaru Impreza in a ChumpCar event last fall and a quick stint on some back roads in [Horseheads] NY near Watkins Glen. The ST-43's they had on the Subie felt great, nice initial grab, pretty easy to modulate, minimal rotor wear, little brake dust on wheels & no noise I detected [although they did have a fairly loud exhaust on it]. How do the ST-43's work on the street? Did you feel the need to follow other cars at a greater distance [when pads are cold]? I'm thinking about moving from the HP+ to the ST-43 pads on my Z. I run the HP+ all the time [mostly because I'm lazy...] and would like to be able to do the same with the ST-43's.