Careless

not going to dispute that, as it is a ratio, and not a measure of anything unless stated (as you did)... but I think you missed my joke.

hey it's definately in there. i'll give her a pop tomorrow. I don't want to bend the bolt-clamp too much... i REALLY don't want to remove the steering column if it *bleeps* up. LOL stupid north! why does it have to be so close to the north pole! *shakes fist*

what's the stepper motor for ?

Hey, where in Ontario are you? The RB25 is a better choice here... The RB24 would probably be done to get some extra displacement out of the 2.0, which is a tad smaller and would probably pass inspection in some countries where the engines must remain the same size as they were before upgrades and whatnot. or in race classes... and that means you'd be cheating! The RB25's rev a lot more than the VG30ET's do, but they pull in the top-end. The VG30's have some great low-end grunt for a 6 cylinder turbo motor. Racinjitter went from a VG to a 25 in his Z31, and now he's going RB30... But he can spill the beans on why he's doing that. I do remember him telling me that the VG30 had more torque down-low though. But you're looking to rev high, and the RB25 makes more power up there than the VG, so you might as well just drop the stock RB25 in there and do some valvetrain mods, which can be done with the engine in the car, as the cams are loaded from the top of the head, and not the front! (bonus!!!!)

Good luck with the nice shots of hot oil into your intake plenum. The PCV system (working or not) would be the top of the list for worst emissions control devices on modern engines. The Idea of having oil vapours (and most likely OIL with it) going back into the intake is not my idea of a "properly functioning emissions system" regardless of whether it was designed that way or not. You wonder why cars don't pass emissions as they get older? Because of parts like the PCV system. I've decided to not even route mine back to the intake infront of the turbo (bernoulli effect would pull the gasses in easier through the catch can)... I'm just going to run both valve cover ports to a catch can and put a small filter on the can. Sorry. I just have had it with PCV systems and they do more harm than good. If you wanna be all stock just to be all stock... try a Z31 PCV. the PCV system is the only thing I would change if you wanted to be 100% stock... it will SAVE your engine from a lot of gunk in the future.

I was thinking that... but I really don't want to break that piece of the steering column. if it does break. I am in deep doo-doo. I got a cold steel chisel that has a widened wedge that I can try when I get back to the house. I did remove the bolt, I saw that it has a divet along the splines so the bolt must be completely removed... well I saw that on a picture of one on ebay. LOL. Thanks, I'll give'r a go tomorrow night

order all new studs, washers, and nuts for the exhaust manifolds and take them off the motor you will use and replace them, and use some anti-seize too. they tend to break in the head and it's easier to get out when the engine is out. they redesigned the studs with a better metal so that they will not corrode and break as easily. my 2 cents. wouldn't want the same thing that happens to all us z31 guys to happen to you.

thanks for taking the words outta my mouth jeffer I can rest my little fingers.

it sure as hell better! or my 150psi I got on my compression testing gauge is telling me my engine is a 150:1 compression ratio. LOL where's that 1000 octane gas?

well perhaps some of you guys can share some good first-hand info on direct injection systems through another thread... I'd be interested in reading some of it.

me too, if i can't find a CLSD in good lick. I figure with the new mods I did to free up some energy, a breathe more of boost, and an LSD + Exhaust I'll have a pretty decent Z31T Daily.

it comes in the el grande, patrol, and other big vehicles and i believe those are RWD and 4WD.. I can check tonight if my internet is working I will post...

if you mean P'Blaster with the yellow cap and the funky label, thats' what I've been using. with some light hammer hits... and its not being nice

that's awesome man. congrats! lets hope the good streak you're having stays, and rubs off on some of us too! or maybe the good luck my father had with his surgery is rubbing off on you now! whatever it is, i like it. and keep up the good work

LOL Most Awesome Z baby Award, for SURE. youtube that!

nevermind. the turbos look like T20-25's or something, just like most other VNT's. They must be Air Research turbos.

I'd like to know the specs on the VGT/VNT Turbo used... if it's the same size as the z31 turbo me thinks me have upgrade

Hey if you got a rack leak, make it easy for yourself and just do your rack at the same time as the turbo. LOL. I can't seem to get the steering shaft to pop out or come out of the column. I got the one off the steering rack but the one at the top is rusted and I don't know how to remove it...

I can see straight through the drain pipe, the gasket was firmly planted round the drain hole nicely, and on the pan... I've put my finger through it many times to check for blockage, and there is a plate at the end that directs the oil downwards, there is plenty of room for it to seep back into the pan and I would assume that's a windage-plate that would stop from forcing windage air into the oil drain to block it from air-choking the flow. I'm starting to think it's the comp-cams lube being too thick... maybe the turbo didn't like it and it pushed the seals out.

I just saw the pan for the first time and I'll admit, aside from the beautifully welded together pieces, And it looks like there are a lot of them!... the only thing that concerned me is the distance from the floor of the pan. Oil pan dipsticks never hit the bottom so when it says it's low on oil that means it's a litre or under 'spec'... so I don't see the need to go super close to the pan. If you get to the point where you're that close to the bottom in oil level, I think your engine may have another problem... Have you made a modification to it since, or did you keep it at that height? Those high flow oil pumps can cause voids in that little space at high rpm, and I'm not sure whether those can lead to pump cavitation... something to be look into... but I've never built an oil pan so I'm not sure if I'm even making sense.

sorry to say, but I'm wondering when someone is going to figure out a direct injection port on the Z instead of a grooved cylinder head. I mean... crazier things have been done before that come to mind.

Ain't it the truth It's stopped my spending though... but....

LOL. the circuitry is not complex by many of today's standards and what others are doing on this forum, but it does take some soldering and general IC circuit knowledge (i.e. - which side of the chip is up?!) LOL 555 timer IC's are squarish in size, so that's the biggest problem with them.

Is there a proper way of having the turbo circulate coolant before starting? I cranked the starter a good 5 or 10 times on a fresh battery for 6 or 7 seconds at a time, with some long pauses in between to get the oil in there... and I poured some oil into the turbo oil feed hole before doing that. I removed the turbo on sunday along with my steering rack, which needs replacing. I cleaned the ports yesterday night with some toothbrushes and simple green/brake clean, and I'm going to get a call from Turbo-man today to see what went wrong. He rebuilt i around October, but I didn't start it till December, and now this.

Find some highly breathable foam or even an old air filter to sit around the microphone, or make a small box with an inch or less of air gap. ITB's have a tendancy to add latency to the microphone once the first BLAP hits the mic, causing it to max out in it's deflection, and it tries hard to keep up. Then you're stuck with crackly audio that would make me feel sad and others would be outraged that you gyped us from hearing heavenly chords from the Datsun Symphony Orchestra. Don't spoil the show!