Careless

did you already get the quest alternator? I got a qx4,350z alternator that was 110 amp for my z31, and instead of extending the stock bracket (which i would imagine looks quite like an RB bracket), it was cut, and a hole or two drilled... This made it so much easier because the pivot bolts are on the other side of the housing, so it makes the adjustment bolt tab closer to the engine, rather than further... which would require an extended curvature of the standard alternator bracket. I posted on z31 performance here: http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14324&start=0 but it looks like they've trimmed the pictures from the database due to issues this passed week with user/storage overload.

congrats. the goal is met, and you gotta change your signature again now well done, some inspiration for anyone looking to accomplish their goals.

maybe he shoe-horned STANCE coil overs in there!

I hear a humming sound too.

if anyone can point me in the right direction for a dry sump system by a reputable company that's not going out of business any time soon, and I like the price, I MAY consider getting rid of my oil pan and pickup

he asked "watts" so bad about it. lol. that made it even more funny to me, and you didn't catch it! hehehe

so i swapped my ecu after an injector melt-down caused by my idiocy that caused a voltage reg on my alternator to pound my injectors and other units at 18 volts. replaced the rail, replaced the ecu, and still had a miss on idle when the throttle was jabbed quickly from full-flat idle to wide-open really quick. spark would cut out. I got a fuel pump code, primary ignition coil code, and coolant temp sensor code. coolant temp sensor was changed, so that's weird. fuel pump code? hell if i know, it's gettin fuel nice!... primary ignition coil though... i replaced the coil and the module, and then whilst lookign at my cap/rotor, i found the distributor to be VERY wobbly. the rotor moves atleast +/- 2 or degrees... that would unsettle the CAS reference and the spark cut-out would be explained if it's not timed properly... I'm giong to replcae it with one that feels better when twisted a bit, and see if it fixes my problem. Raff

you're lucky to get him at a time at which he is starting to make his own important decisions.since he's now as happy as he's ever been, or even more so, his positive attitude will attract more opportunity and and good spirits his way. I remember being 16 - 18 and down and out 'cause of my living situation, but all is well now. I just needed to get away =) glad it worked out for you. hitting a child with a cork sandle or a wooden sauce spoon was something I went through a lot of when I was a toddler because I caused a ruckus. but those days are old and gone, and for someone to do that in this day and age... they need to learn a lesson. lol

i like to think that the empty portion of the glass is open to atmosphere, therefore it is not "half" of anything.

had me confused too. LOL. I was reading your post about grinding SOME of the pad out, and thought to myself "how is that going to help a piston get further away from the entire pad... it's flat!" lol. I guess it's bore straightness then. what is your compression now? and what would it be if you stuck with the original 1.1mm headgasket and rounded out the inside diameter of the pads/combustion chamber?

software limits hardware.

nice touch with the scarab type fenders This is one of my fav z

you're looking at nearly half a compression point with that different in gasket height. negligible to most big-boost engines. piston mishaps DO occur. it could be that the offset for the gudgeon pin or the pin height was located improperly. in any case, if you have to... eric should be able to send you a second set of pistons. he does stock manley, pauter, and je stuff too... but I recall quentin (fentin_fury) using CP's too... i think without any issues, so maybe discussing what he found out with him would be a good idea too. this is weird.

heck, I would consider getting a stockpile and making a dip-tank out of some rubbermaids. that way you can dip a bunch of parts in one by one, and don't have to worry about spraying or brush marks, and you will coat the entire thing nicely. LOL. just a pipe dream. *now off to browse eBay for dip-tanks that a Z can fit in... and a lot of POR or Rust Bullet.*

C'est impossiblé!!! I doooooo have on that I may not use... or I may. Depends on whether or not my Dry Sump system comes to fruition. hmmmm....

I'll call tomorrow and make sure, but I don't think its NLA. Discontinued might be possible, but NLA... I doubt it. It should still be available... and if not, I'm going to wrap the one I have and put it in a safety deposit box.

It's the biggest part as to why I own two Z's. The camradery and support from this community is the best I've been a a part of yet, bar-none! My father had his heart surgery and I told him that the Z guys are rootin' for him, and he made a funny joke while I was taking pictures of this weird sign posted on the wall in his hospital room... "hey, no pictures for your car friends on the internets... I don't want them to see me with this one... The engine isn't running good and I don't like the wheels I have on this one." (as he's laying down in a movable hospital bed, LOL). Good thing she's making a come back and walking around. With the record that guy has i'm wondering why someone hasn't stuffed him under lock and key before... but it looks like someone posted a 250,000 bail before.

• bugged windows installation • faulty northbridge on laptop motherboard • bad driver package • try usb-to-rs232 conversion cable

hehehe. thanks =) Hayden can contact me at any time. I remember Dan mentioning it as well. I just didn't see how it was wired up until I tested in my basement with two independant motors. I drew the diagram because the others were different, and I just wanted to actually have something like this on the net for others to take into consideration. If the weather is good (-20C lately, here without windchill), I'll be working on getting it all in today, or at least have the wire routed so I can finish this up and purge the coolant on my car with a good cleaner, and then get the car back on it's 4 feet after 8 months of being airborne.

So it's a piston offset indication mark then. my RB pistons that I sold had the mark on the top of the piston as a slight dimple. I just found it weird how the L pistons have a notch cut out of the crown so sharply, rather than a deep scribe mark. it looks like 4 hard edges near a hotter part of the piston, so it worried me.

hope all goes well.

A word of internet-friendly advice: next time an advertising sponsor decides to create an ad, inform them that any JavaScript "onLoad" browser events are not tolerated and must be rectified before the ad will be displayed. within the tag of every website, there is a tag that can be input between the two < > 's stating: onload="javascript: do this" alternatively, if javascript is loaded within the body itself (as the ad is doing), when the ad is loaded, within the code which displays the ad will be something like this: body onload="do this" effectively allowing the advertising sponsor to inject the same code where it would otherwise be unwrittable, unless you gave them access to the main template of the phpBB forum files, which I will presume has never occured, and with obvious reason... as it requires administrator access. so the best way to cease the occurence of this in the future would be to declare to the advertising sponsor that any javascript that does not solely compute in-advertisement form variables and calculations (i.e.- your car make, manufacturer, year, current insurance premium in a mathematical form) shall have their ad pulled until fixed. It's the only solution for this type of nuisance.

11140-04U00 early RB25's and RB20's share same oil-level gauge (as called by the Nissan FAST) system.

great car. great deal. good luck with the sale, but if you saw this coming then why did you chuck more money at it? now it may be gone completely!

if you're looking for the 4 wire heated sensors, they are grey squares. if you're looking for a 3 wire of some sort, they are grey squares as well with one pin missing. if you're looking for a 2 wire, they may be grey rectangles with rounded edges or black squares with ovals at the end. why not get the sensors first... would that not be the easiest thing?