Careless

speaking from mad n00blet experience, i just ported my heads on my z31. took out some meat near the top side of the bowl and smoothed out the bumps on the port floor leading into the bowl, which was transitioned into the seat till it was silky smoove. then i port matched the intake side and left the exhaust side with a bit of a lip over the gasket area. each head took me 8 - 10 hours. With beer and smoke breaks in between. Drink one. smoke one. port one. repeat. (no, i'm not advocating smoking or drinking, but it's what i've been doin lately!) In total, if you take 2 or 3 hours a day, over a period of a week and a half you can have a nicely cleaned up and prepped head that is not too over the top, and should be just a rough cleanup of what nissan skimped on, and could give you anywhere from 5 - 10% in air volume. I'm not sure how L series castings are so I can't say or speculate, but the VG ones are horrible. You can even see on the outside how much raw flashing bridges the outer head indentations... enough to severely cut your hand trying to do stuff around the head or picking it up from the wrong area. The worst thing is taking the grinder to the base of the valve seat or around the guide for the first time. Kinda twirly in the guts, but it feels good when you show people and they say they likes!

Can you post some pictures in here? It'd be good info on this board and would save us from having to register at another board.

the same volume of air at a higher temperature would produce more velocity passed the turbine wheel because it will be expanding at a much higher rate, would it not? that's what I've understood from max boost anyway. i could very well be wrong.

355, turbo it later.

sorry r0nz. got carried away with my clicky finger and Nissan FAST. I guess a BSPT plug should be the best replacement, in Yasin's case, for this "sensor"... *teehee!*

Looks nice and alot better light, but a breadboard full of LED's to cover the entire housing would look a lot better!

is it me or is that the worst place to break your leg when you're itching to drive your car. LOL. right on the gas-foot!

my thoughts exactly.

it could be that it runs the Rad fan if there is one, or the Injector fan as ron indicated.

Yasin, Disregard the part numbers above, here is what you need: RED is the Thermotime Switch (as ron suggested, and it is what you're looking for), and it is to control the rad-fan, I believe. The GREEN is for the ECU, and it is the Temperature sensor. Use the numbers on the Diagram to cross-ref the numbers on the second column of the parts-list.

i realize the bottom ones have no thread and might be slim-fit so that an open-ended pipe fitting can be place around it and sealed with teflon tape and thread sealer as well as thermostat silicone. Then the hilt on the sensor will abutt the pipe fitting so that it does not back out or leak. at least that's what it looks like anyhow.

i found this: ACDELCO Part # E1884 {#19022029} SENSOR,ENG COOL T/GA with BLADE TERMINAL; EXC. DIGITAL DASH http://198.208.187.182/servlet/com.entigo.acdelcocatalog.servlet.ProcessImageServlet?languagecd=EN&countrycd=US&user=InternetUser&mfgname=null&prodlinecd=null&acpartnbr=E1884 and this: AIRTEX Part # 1T1181 w/o Digital Gauge and this: AIRTEX Part # 1T1182 GL Model w/Digital Gauge and this: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TS69 {TEMPERATURE SENDING UNITS} with Mechanical Dash or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TS495 {TEMPERATURE SENDING UNITS} with Digital Dash

hey yasin, is that mig welded? btw, jover papag says hi (if you remember him from the corolla boards)

I like the slim and curvy band. keeps my air/fuel ratios pegged at STOOOOICH! all the time.

good! cause if you start with the VG30ET at this age, you'll have no hair to pull out when you move onto better things. LOLOLOLOLOLOL all jokes aside, it's not as bad as I make it sound. I just wish some things weren't designed the way they were in most cases. It seems Nissan built the car around the VG30ET's, and forgot that people need to work on them sooner or later. HA!

brake fluid is made to swell rubber so it seals better anyhow, so I don't see why putting power steering fluid in there is going to make it any better. I could be wrong, but i know putting some injector seals into some brake fluid a couple of days before re-using them (if you gotta!) will make them nice and plump, and resilient. Not sure what power steering fluid would do to those same seals... Lastest Engine Master's book reports of people using a cup or cup and a half of brake fluid in their engine oil to plump seals from the inside out. these are weird times....

i pulled the heads so i could get at the broken studs in the manifold stud holes. i'm not replacing the oil pump right now because I don't have the time/money... but I'll do that when I gotta replace the steering rack. maybe spring. hopefully that doesnt bite me in the ass like everything else does!

wow, torturing you folk must be easy. come work in a produce freezer during a january winter. my house's rad-heater just stopped igniting and the house is 16.2 C right now. It's friggen freezing in here!

haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahaha that is gold. where's dogbert!

1% wireless signal, 1mbps. LOL

pfffffffft! they have faster connections down-under! he should have seen that post before it was posted!

cutting sounds like a way better method than dropping the clutch with a puller attached to it. especially since a car is most likely on jack stands, and things become projectiles in those cases. not to mention thrust surfaces on the bearings taking a sudden impact with no lubrication. but then again maybe that's what kind of abuse they're made to withstand in severe driving situations!

yeah i hate when I get compressor surge though.

Somewhere in that book, it explains how a reversion damn on the exhaust side of a millimeter or two could help retain heat next to the turbine wheel from within the manifold rather than flowing back into the ports. It helps as the manifold pressure/gas velocity builds up it will push out one way (turbine to exhaust), rather than both ways (back into port, and through turbine/exhaust). I was reading it on the can yesterday and made note of it because i didn't port match my exhaust ports, which made me feel good again (and even better after I was done). just thought i'd mention.