Careless

just to think, phil. a year ago, you were rantin' and ravin like this: see what happens when you wait? good things!

hotcarsecs up in this thread, phil! lime = yes.

Everyone is on the RB trip. I like it looks like they're starting to become more popular, although already very much so!. sweet build.

The CHRA should be able to rotate 360 degrees. It's a question of whether or not the exhaust elbow that will essentially be a U-PIPE to work back towards the exhaust will be too close to any other lines like the drain or the coolant lines if any.

What's the going price of a 280z dash anyway. I have one that I don't need, but I kept it because it's in super good condition. Just has a bit of over-spray from a door jamb paintjob that I can remove easily with non-volatile/non-solvent cleaners.

I have a wedding to attend on that day. I apologize, I won't be making it. And I'm moving on Sept 1st... and my block is awaiting piston rings. LOL. Raff

rock steady AFR's! nice!

CLOSE CALL. 2 Teeth is what... 8 degrees on an RB26? coulda had a valve-popping party all up in your head if it was even more off-tooth with an adjustable cam gear! Good catch, could have been catastrophic!

I'm calling NASA to let them know they missed the launch of this rocket ship. How'd they miss that one!

pusher fan for the win!

but the washers still need rearranging. so it's best just to take it apart and set everything for the price they cost. makes more sense that way. pulling the diff on some cars is a chore.

baby steps, and it will pay off! It looks great, but don't get ahead of the rest of the car. start working on other things that end up in the same area, like you said. exhaust. i think an air foil would be cool. something not as aggressive, but similar in form as this here: something way more shallow, just a finisher for the tail pipes, and maybe a fake dual tip for the time being.

usually it's written that 14.4v its standard alternator charge when developing products for automotive applications that run on a 12volt system. My Quest 110 amp runs 14.26v, rock solid from idle to 6000 rpm.

Posted this over on z31performance. just looking for some opinions. Hi Gents, So I'm assembling the engine in the garage on a piece of plywood on the floor for now. My VG30ET is taking up my engine stand and to be honest, I like sitting on the ground rather than standing for this long. I am dealing with a GAP headache here. VG30ET specs: VG33E specs: VG33ER specs: My initial values for the top rings (haven't checked bottom or oil rings/expander yet) are close or about 0.58mm. That's already passed the MAX gap for the VG33E, but lower than the MAX gap for the VG30ET (which seems a heck of a lot higher, 1 full millimeter!). My worry comes from whether or not the machinist bored the pistons out to the proper size, but when I asked him what value he used, he said he honed them to the final size on the outside of the Sealed Power piston box (which I was hoping he would say). I don't have the proper tools to check, but the pistons are pretty snug in here. Should I be worried if the boosted motor has a higher ring gap then the non-boosted one, and mine is lower than the MAX specified for the boosted motor? lets face it... no one is going to put these pistons in a Quest. It must have been made for a supercharged or turbocharged motor. but the gaps are smaller there... I need to have the piston ring gap finalized before I assemble the pistons for final insertion. Then I can check the rod journal sizing. I'll be taking a couple of hours off work tomorrow to check that out. More to come! Also, I got the main bearings torqued. All the values written down. Everything is well within spec, and it's ground and nitrided. Looks like a brand new crank. The journals are beautifully polished and my plastigauge says no journal taper at this point. Fillets obviously look smaller due to grinding, but if they're in spec, they're in spec! NOTE: Check the front and middle two main bearings, the front bearings are about 2 or 3 mm wider to take more load thanks to the increased surface area that will get a wider oil film to help offset the tension of the timing belt and the accessory drive. The center ones seem like they're just there to just ride the wave with the wider rear and front bearings. EDIT: I meant to say i hoped he would say he went by the box. error on my part. but perhaps he took the piston measurement and the FSM clearance range, and subtracted what he got from the pistons and honed each cylinder to the proper ring clearance. He didn't assemble the bottom end so he would not check ring-gap in that case... so I'm not sure if i should be worried. I managed to get every ring gap to the same feeler gauge blade for each type of ring. I succeeded in getting the following readings from every ring gap by swapping them around: Top Ring: 0.58mm Middle Ring: 0.58mm Oil Control Rings (Top & Bottom): 0.75mm I don't know if I should check the Expansion Ring... or how? Which means I'm close to the VG30ET readings on the oil control rings, so maybe it means the ring set I got was over-cut in size. Is it because it's a turbo motor, and the E and ER are not exactly the same? (heat issue here? not sure..). so that means I'm calling Federal Mogul to make sure. and then call him to ask him what he did. My only option is to run it as is. But I just want to know. What's weird is that they also have 1.00 mm oversize rings but they don't offer the 1.00mm piston anymore (or if they ever did... but i see it listed some places). So if I were to get rings that were 1.00mm instead of 0.75 mm... perhaps it would close the gap to well within reasonable specs? I'm not sure if you can do that... 0.25 is less than the gap size it's trying to close in on... but the logic isn't quite the same when mixing those two measurements... Should I order rings in the larger size and see what works and return the ones that are over-gapped? Not sure how smart that is... but perhaps someone has had success doing that assembling engines that I don't know of? Now it comes down to getting larger rings and trying them out or going with over-gapped rings. Those are my two options. Looking at specs for turbo and or nitrous 350's and such (and I know, it's a horrible comparison, but I'm going to do it anyway)... they run 0.02 to 0.03 inch gap, or more! Heck the toughest thing in engine building is having to decide. LOL.

well the knock sensor for a vg30et uses the same style sensor connector as a lot of toyota radiator fan and coolant temperature switches. it's a circular o-ring style clip. 1991 Camry coolant temp sender: 1987 Z31 Knock (Detonation) Sensor

I believe I split the load using two wires and only one has a fuse. I really need to check it, since the motor is out of the car.

take a picture of the connector, and i can cross reference with airtex or wells mfg company and tell you what car to rip the sensor plugs off of in the junkyard.

Weird, I have a fuse that is 70 amp rated on my charge line going to the battery with my 110amp alternator. Never did get it to go to full amperage, I guess.

when you did a search in Nissan FAST did you load the US catalogue, and then load the Parts Master program and cross ref? The Parts Master works for the FIRST/Currently open catalog. so if you want a Japanese part here in North America... you would find the JAP number, close the JAP Catalog. Open the US Catalog, open the Parts Master program, and punch in the part number. It looks a lot like the 99 Quest knock sensor, so I dunno... might work. look at the later minivans and stuff...... I could probably find it for you and take a pic on Wednesday night. I have vg33 knock sensor hanging out. ALSO... you can go to http://www.rockauto.com and look for knock sensors on there, and it will show you what they look like and sometimes show you the connector. Here's the quest sensor:

looks pretty clean now, but I would have asked for him to prep the surface before painting a bit better, and perhaps cover the cross member and steering rack.

you can wire a 12 volt wire from the battery to the 12 volt in, a ground to the ground in, and taking a tip from strokerzedd: • This is what I did to get my Autometer tach working: Place 470 ohm resistor between the 12v pin and the Tach signal pin on the back of the Tach itself. This will act as a pull up resistor and provide enough power to drive the Tach. so that means you can just keep your wiring as is, but add a resistor from 470ohm to 10k ohm in between the 12volt in and the tach in pins. that should pull up the signal to boost the ecu wire pulsing to be readable enough by the box... that box is essentially a relay, btw. i saw everything at the local electronic store to build one of those.... but I bet I could make them a heck of a lot smaller.

I think the coolest thing is that you can go 2JZ style or RB26 style by choosing which head you want from the V12 version. That in itself is pretty awesome! I think having the exhaust on the passenger side might free up some space from the booster and the steering column and allow a lot more tube to fit in there!

btw, I've made tons of cash fixing ppls computers and I usually start with malwarebytes.org and it clears about 80% of the problem on the first run.

if you have spyware... start with malwarebytes.org and download the free version of their program. Not sure how the free one is, as I downloaded it last when there was no pro version. also, for anti-virus that seems to integrate with the new windows 7 or vista quite well, I use NOD32. it even tells me when windows itself needs an update... something i thought only the windows security center did. annnnnnnnnnd lastly, i use Outpost Firewall Pro... But it can get a bit more technical for the first 2 or 3 months. Lets just say I've never had a virus attack within the last 6 - 8 years, and malware has never existed for more than an hour (due to my stupidity) on any of my computers... figures. I let my guard down for one hour to play an online game with my brother and he sends me a link to a web page that had phishing software running in the background.

RB30 Bearings will not fit the RB25. the crank pin diameter is different. Rod is same. Either way... I have to see how my VG33 build goes. Should be done in T-minus 2.5 weeks and driving if all goes well this week at the machinist... Then we'll see what I have room for and what I don't.