Careless

a member who resides in here in Ontario, Canada has done it, and his car is beautiful!

there are direct replacement 280z panels already, posted by jangholt. just not from grndfx. but if you can't wait, they are about the same price and look good.

You can get an adapter plate, i think for maxworx motorsports. but even then, it still might not move the car as quick as you'd like. I really think the RB25 is the best bet, and I don't think there are tons of Z32's with em.

RB20 would be a bit sluggish in a Z32 unless you gutt the thing out or sacrifice low-rev power and use a fairly large turbo charger to make a higher peak hp where the car would move easier and strain the little 2.0 less. I'd really go with an RB25 and some turbo modifications to have it spool quicker and make more power earlier. You'd really feel more of a benefit from the added torque when putting a 2.5 litre into something that is heavier than a 240sx. The drivetrain loss due to the larger size of the R230 diff is also a factor with the 2 litre, but since you're using a factory N/A as a base, I think they had R200's so you may not feel that loss much... but It'd still need some revs (and a lot of energy at those revs) to really get it goin. I'm going to shoot in the dark and say that a factory Z32T will be faster. And you can probably get a JDM VG30DET and get a better turbo setup for the same price that it would cost you to do the same with the RB20. Ontop of that, you would be assured that all the factory stuff that's in your car now will pretty much plug in or bolt on with minimal work for an engine swap other than another factory engine. RB20 + Z32 unless highly modified or gutted is not an option I would consider. If I had a little extra cash to add some new things to an RB25DET, I would go with that. But All RB's aside (and this is just for comparison purposes), I would get a VG30DET and slap on a nice intake plenum and a fatty turbo with a large intercooler setup and lay down more power with less tinkering. And then at that point, you have the option of going with forged parts... both of which are widely available here now... and both of which are about the same price per item, and same total cause they're both 6's. Just for all intensive purposes, I know you'd rather not talk about the power to weight ratio thing... but you cannot avoid it because that is what people with performance in mind will base their opinion on. I have no problem with an RB weighing more than an SR20... I'd rather take an RB25's weight and two extra cylinders rather than an SR20. But between the SR20 and the RB20... and since you want something different.... I would cross them both out of the list and go with an FJ20, or even a KA24.., or better yet... possibly an L28 popped and pushed out to somewhere around 3 litres with a nice GT35R or GT42 to back that sucker up =) Just cause I think it's more different than an RB as a whole. Then again... I'm building an N/A RB... so take my opinion/information for what it is. LOL

I actually got emails from Clive to get the Transmission on that Z31 if he has room for it. I would take it but he's in Hamilton. He said he knew someone with an RB engine and said it sat really nice in the engine bay. I think he was talking about yours. You should grab it if you have an RB20 Transmission and you're gonna put some extra kick into it. The engine is out of the car sitting beside the engine (or attached to it). The car itself is on it's side. It's an 88 turbo Z31, so it has an FS5R30A transmission like that of the RB25, Z32T, and RB26 internals. If you can find an RB25 or 26 bell-housing, you will be able to use it with your RB20 flywheel and clutch too.

Cool, thanks guys. I think the axle part is the kicker right there. If I don't see the wheels spinnin the same way, i'm going to have to pay a visit to whiteheads with the receipt, and ask where my CLSD is =) I'm going to go search for CLSD pics now.

I just bought a 1987 300zx Turbo, and one of the receipts says the differential was replaced for 200.00. I hope Whitehead's didn't take the CLSD out and put a VLSD in because they know whats up in there. How can I make sure I still got the CLSD? I'm sure a cover swap would remove all suspicion

Hi Mull. They look good in the pic, However, I would put some sort of reflective tape as a base before soldering them to the breadboard. just make sure that the reflective tape is not conductive, ofcourse Many time's I've drove by a car, only to notice it a couple of meters in the distance because of it's chrome trim and reflection off the back of the tail lights. So that should be an indication of how well the reflective portion helps at night. Are you sure they are wide enough angle? Also, you'll want to make sure you get 640nm wavelength, as that is the purest RED in LED form, and won't make it look pink, like most DIY (and even some factory) LED tail lights I see on the roads today. That spectrumled fellow seems like the right guy, but perhaps you should message him for more information.

i foresee the problem of joining them with welds.

is that weight based on the same scale being used?

Do the LS1 coils work, or is it the suburban coils only?

i dunno what any of what you two are bickering about has to do with vITB's, so both of you women stop pullin' hair Nizm0Zed I figured the power window motors wouldn't be the quickest. I found some stepper motors that use screw drive spindles and nylon slide bushings that are self lubricating and go up and down with the screw. I'm having trouble finding one that would be the proper amperage, and gearing... (i think 10:1 might work ), but I think I can use the help of my father to do this. He is a retired college professor with 32 years in the AC and DC motors / Electrical department of a well known college.

you should be looking for 12mm wide LED's that are 60+ degrees in angle view. I don't think I've found powerful enough LED's that were smaller than 12mm. They should also be the brightest you can find. They can be found on ebay from someone called Spectrum LED, and he pre-wires them for car use, but you'll have to rewire them in most cases. Around this time he gets busy with requests from auto manufacturers to supply them with LED's as well, as he is a BIG supplier, but you should message him and he can better assist you.

Guys, for about the price of a good ignition box for a 6 cylinder, you can have one of Ron's custom mounts + LS1 coils, and suitable wires to wrap it all up, and have the ability to swap coils at ANY shop, and have the benefit of better spark, and OEM quality that powers some very high horsepower factory, and modified engines. Not to mention this setup will very likely (if not indefinitely) out perform whatever box it is that you got your eye on within this price range once all is said and done. you can't find a better custom made (or perhaps even off the shelf) product at a price close to what Ron is offering here. This is the same guy that brought you those nice mount designs too!!! and look how nice it is =D

I though HybridZ = past, present, and future

its a shame it doesn't have the bracket or the throttle cable part number =/

a good start would be for what model

to make this clear folks, it's an RB20 Box, not just any R32 box. The RB20 box is a form of the FS5W17C, like NZeder pointed out. The C Transmission just has some synchronizers and some improvements that the A and B did not have. Saying that an RB Transmission fits on the L28 bellhousing would imply that the FS5R30A (Nissans strongest transmission) would fit on the L28 bell housing. In that case, so would the RB26DETT all wheel drive transmission, RB25 RWD Transmissions, and the 87 - 96 300zx Turbo transmissions. But sadly that's not the case, or not as easy as a bell housing swap. Just trying to clear things up.

Arnz, can you record the part number down, and give it to me once you are done with your sale? I don't want to know the number right now, just keep me in mind please =) I have a very enthusiastic and professional parts manager at my local nissan dealership who will order anything from Japan, but I'd like to see you pass yours on to someone first. MJLamberson, these ones come with original Datsun fit, and they are complete with chrome trim. And they're just original, ok?! LOL EDIT: Sorry Arnz, didnt see that you sold em, and here are the part numbers Part Numbers: 63900-E4126, 63901-E4126

Hey Mull, look at this if you need to calculation the resistors and led setup =) http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

if it works as well or better than hoped for, then spend the money on it later... for now I think what u have will work fine to test it, so long as they don't blow off... which might be a bit of an issue.

That's all I found, sorry. try and save up? I dunno.

perhaps one of your valves are bent or not sealing properly, your piston ring is chewed, or your spark plug seat is damaged. take your time, don't jump to conclusions.

lol. come on man, don't be so close minded. I'm sure you can find someone to drill the holes and seat cuts for the o-rings fine. If you really want, you can buy the drill bit off ross machine as well. 4 feet of -6 or -8, and the 14 or 11mm injector drill bit... you can make 3 of them, and have a lot of room for error. all you need is a drill press and a clamp and patience. I will agree, the aftermarket ones are nice and easy, but I mean... you can probably do 3 of them yourself and have enough money to have them anodized still. What would be left for you to make? mounts? BAH humbug!

http://www.collectiblestoday.com/ct/product/prdid-1009835001.jsp http://www.snuffledopple.com/1963-chevrolet-corvette-sting-sale-diecast-model-p-2213.html Nice one (Real Fibreglass): http://www.pacprod.com/gifts/1963_CHEVROLET_CORVETTE_FIBERGLASS_DIE-CAST_1:24_SCALE_MODEL_BY_THE_FRANKLIN_MINT/B11XN55.htm Bawwwwwlin' like wuuuuuuuuut: http://www.snuffledopple.com/1963-corvette-sting-split-window-model-p-397.html http://www.amazon.co.uk/Diecast-Chevrolet-Corvette-Stingray-Silver/dp/B000CEWW6E The red one is the nicest you will find. It's from the Franklin Mint. Some of the models of theirs I have seen are impeccable.