Miles

Sounds good.

As long as your brake set up is front biased, installing a pressure limiting device on the rear brake circuit would not do anything to improve the problem. Remember a PV can not raise the brake pressure - it limits it. The so called brake upgrades for our Z cars (Toyota - Maxima, Toyota - 240SX etc.) typically result in a front to rear ratio of 60f/40r to 70f/30r. The only way you can have a balanced brake system is to design it by the numbers taking into consideration factors such as master cylinder size, brake rotor diameter, number of pistons in the caliper, pad friction coefficient etc. If you do the brake torque calculations you will see what I mean. Yes, you can replace the brake pressure differential valve (aka brake switch) with a three-way connector as shown in the attached picture. Do not consider "gutting" the switch as you would be connecting the front and rear brake circuits together. Anything you change will have a domino effect because brake systems are engineered to work as a system. There are many many threads here dealing with brake bias issues. You may want to study them before making any changes to your brake system.

Don't do anything. A PV would only be required if the rear brakes were more effective than the front brakes. That is "rear biased". Almost all of the so called front - rear disk "upgrades" result in too much front brake bias. So installing a PV is counter intuitive. The differential pressure safety switch turns on a red light on the dash if there is a leak in the front or rear brake circuits. All that happens is the piston inside moves to the low pressure side if there is a leak on that side and turns on the red light. That is it. Removing the differential pressure safety switch does not improve anything. Leave it alone. If one front caliper is working better than the other caliper, then the caliper on the other side is defective. A number of things can cause this, usually a stuck piston or a leaking seal.

Nice

go here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21a11

http://www.zparts.com/tutorials/brkdrum/brkdrum_remove.html

You may already know this, use a locknut from a 280ZX instead of the stock nut. The 280ZX is self locking. The stock nut has to be peened against the axle shaft which makes future disassembly difficult. Also, make sure that the bearings and grease seasl are perfectly seated before tightening the lock nut.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "Just SUs". Watch the video a few times and the SU carb will be very easy to tune and work on.

If your mixture adjustments are reasonably close you may want to consider other reasons for flooding: Float adjustment, Verify float level is set to factory specs. Sticking/stuck needle valve. Fuel level in bowel set to match top of jet. If fuel level in the bowel is higher than the top of the jet fuel will just drain out through the jet! There is a procedure for checking this using a clear plastic hose.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "Just SUs". You are going to need it. http://www.ztherapy.com/

The first Scarab: http://www.wsj.com/articles/was-the-scarab-an-original-minivan-1435675078 http://www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/z9131/Stout-Scarab.aspx.aspx

The Chequered stub axles installed and fit perfectly. No they are not used in competition. I have had stock stub axles break under normal daily driving as in the attached picture. The Chequered axles will probably outlast the car.

Check for vacuum leaks. Check floats. Check linkages http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?86104-Su-Carbs-Won-t-Idle

When the idle speed starts falling, what happens if you put the choke on?

Go here and buy the "Just SUs" video: http://www.ztherapy.com/

I am posting this link so you can see the components behind the brake drum. http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/ You can download the FSM here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html I believe that on a 280Z the shoe adjustment window is located at the bottom center of the backing plate. Follow the instructions in the FSM and turn the star wheel until the brake shoes are at maximum slack. If the adjustment star wheel is all the way loose and the drum is still stuck you can beat on it with a hammer.

Use a hammer as the last resort. Take NewZed's advice. It is likely that the parking brake adjusting mechanism has a problem. Using a Haines or Factory Service Manual you can locate the adjuster and back the adjuster out to relax the brake shoes. Then the drum should just pull off. You could also Google "how to adjust 280z rear brakes" or some words like that. There is probably a Youtube video that will show you how to do drum brakes. Good luck

You are going to need a 240Z/280Z Haines manual or the factory service manual to help you with this. This is a common problem with Z drums. Suggest that you spend some time searching in the brake forum as I recall many treads dealing with this problem.

Call MSA if they will sell the hoses only. There are other Z venders that sell the Maxima kits and hoses.

MSA sells the Maxima kit. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21m

Welcome. I am using the 280z hood and R200 differential on my 72 240Z. The 280Z engine and transmission can also be installed in a 240Z. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car(s). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

What is the rotor diameter?

nice

This book may be of interest to you: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Yes you have the engine in the so called Scarab forward position. You could try Hooker Block Hugger manifolds available at Summit, Speedway etc. See picture below.