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Everything posted by Miles
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I am posting this link so you can see the components behind the brake drum. http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/ You can download the FSM here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html I believe that on a 280Z the shoe adjustment window is located at the bottom center of the backing plate. Follow the instructions in the FSM and turn the star wheel until the brake shoes are at maximum slack. If the adjustment star wheel is all the way loose and the drum is still stuck you can beat on it with a hammer.
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Use a hammer as the last resort. Take NewZed's advice. It is likely that the parking brake adjusting mechanism has a problem. Using a Haines or Factory Service Manual you can locate the adjuster and back the adjuster out to relax the brake shoes. Then the drum should just pull off. You could also Google "how to adjust 280z rear brakes" or some words like that. There is probably a Youtube video that will show you how to do drum brakes. Good luck
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You are going to need a 240Z/280Z Haines manual or the factory service manual to help you with this. This is a common problem with Z drums. Suggest that you spend some time searching in the brake forum as I recall many treads dealing with this problem.
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Brake Hoses for Rear Disc Brake Conversion
Miles replied to theczechone's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Call MSA if they will sell the hoses only. There are other Z venders that sell the Maxima kits and hoses. -
Brake Hoses for Rear Disc Brake Conversion
Miles replied to theczechone's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
MSA sells the Maxima kit. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21m -
What should I swap over from my 280z into my 240Z?
Miles replied to schlimgenmatt's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Welcome. I am using the 280z hood and R200 differential on my 72 240Z. The 280Z engine and transmission can also be installed in a 240Z. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car(s). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html -
What is the rotor diameter?
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Exhaust Fitment and Engine Placement Questions
Miles replied to rjcardinal's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
This book may be of interest to you: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html -
Exhaust Fitment and Engine Placement Questions
Miles replied to rjcardinal's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Yes you have the engine in the so called Scarab forward position. You could try Hooker Block Hugger manifolds available at Summit, Speedway etc. See picture below. -
Looks like you have it sorted out. Hope the following will be helpful: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least ten times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock for a awhile. Do basic maintenance brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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Here is a rear bearing replacement tutorial posted at http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html I prefer using a press instead of hammering the bearing in place as shown in the tutorial. John is correct. Be sure the seal is seated all the way into the hub. Even when the seal is seated it still drags on the companion flange some, but there should be no binding or force needed to turn the stub axle.
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Tire rubbing shock after brake upgrade:Help!
Miles replied to KidandhisCar's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
KidandhisCar Something changed after you did the brake upgrade. Sort out what changed. -
If you find some used stub axles, also check the runout on the wheel mounting flange of the stub axle. The flanges are soft and can be bent just hitting a curb. Not much of a problem with drum brakes, but with disk brakes the warped flanges can cause the the brake pads to rub on the rotors. The flanges can be machined if they are not bent or warped too much. Caused me a major headache with rear disk brakes overheating. After checking the runout of the flanges I replaced the stub axles with these: http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html See pictures for typical stub axle failure points.
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Trust but verify always. I reused the distance piece with the new axles I got from Modern Motorsports (Chequered Flag) and had no problem. They probably assume that the buyer knows to reassemble the axle using the original spacer.
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You may need to disassemble the stub axle and make sure the bearings are seated or that you didn't leave out the spacer. Note that the spacers are matched to the hub. See attached pictures from the FSM.
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Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least ten times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock for awhile. Do basic maintenance: brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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I wonder if Dave would be willing to say who his supplier was for the AZ "heavy duty" spring set. I have used them on two street V8 240Z cars and liked the stock height and the spring rates.
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You could join your local Z club(s) and ask for help. Z clubs = parts
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Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least ten times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock for a awhile. Do basic maintenance brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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BTW have you looked at seat swap threads in the interior forum? Lots of seat info there.
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MSA SELLS A "RETRO" seatbelt that bolts in the stock location.
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Undoing aluminum valve cover warpage
Miles replied to seattlejester's topic in Fabrication / Welding
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To be clear, the Z belts attach to large bolts behind the seats. The body is reinforced where the bolts are located. The seats are bolted to sheet metal suports.
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Are you aware that the Z seats are only fastened to the body with four small bolts through sheet metal? The seat would simply rip out of its' attachment points in an accident. Note that the Z seat belts are attached to the body with large bolts. What ever seats and seat belts you decide on, use the stock attachment points.