Miles

Looks more like a family sedan then a sports car.

Those are not tack welds. Tacked it and then welded to full penetration. Note that the brackets (aka hangers) changed from year to year. Mine were from an 89 240SX.

Attached pictures show the 240SX parking brake bracket. The hole where the 240Z parking brake cable attaches to the 240SX bracket is too big so I modified the bracket by cutting off the end and welding on the cable attachment part of a 240Z bracket.

Just replace the clutch MC and slave.

Since you took the clutch pedal apart, check adjustment of the rod that connects to the clutch pedal. Also, prevent future mistakes by down loading the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. PDF copies are available elsewhere in HybridZ.

Perhaps this will help: http://www.driven-daily.com/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades For the Toyota swaps you don't need washers to space anything. Something is wrong if you do. Recommend that you do a lot of searching in the Brake and FAQ Brake forums. That should clear things up.

Fan comparison data: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1816636-markviii-vs-spal-duals.html

Nigel Looks like bad machining by Wilwood. Wilwood seems to lack quality control. I bought two 1 inch Wilwood MCs that leaked internally right out of the box. The third Wilwood MC I bought was ok and has been on the car for five years. I recall another member saying that the Wilwood 1 inch MC he bought had a problem with damaged output ports/cones/fittings.

Before answering your questions we need to know: What year and model Z car do you have? Has the brake system been modified? Posting pictures helps. If you know the year and model (240Z, 260Z, 280Z), you can order the correct booster for your car. Motorsports Auto and Black Dragon sell the booster. You absolutely need to download the correct Factory Service Manual (FSM) if you are going to own a Z car. There are links to the FSM sites elsewhere on HybridZ. At minimum, you should have a 240Z Haynes manual. You can also Google "how to replace 240Z booster" and search HybridZ as booster replacement has been posted many many times. If the master cylinder is good you do not have to remove it. Just unbolt it from the booster and push it to the side. This will save having to bench bleed the MC and the rest of the brake system. Instructions for bench bleeding can be found here and on the internet. Be safe. If you are not comfortable with working on brake systems take the car to a brake shop.

ECU? What year is your Z. Helps if you can be more descriptive and precise in your posts. Can you post pictures?

The most complete engine wiring instructions are in the JTR Datsun Z V8 conversion manual. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Oreilley and MSA sell them. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic14e

Did you install new seals? Do your side shafts look like the attached picture?

Just adapt the 240Z oil and temp sensors to fit the Q45. You may have to do some rewiring to hook up the amp gauge.

MSA sells a replacement seat belt for the 240z. Go to the MSA website. Had mine for 7 years with no problems.

They are the same M10 x 1.0 . Note: do not use brake lines with banjo fittings on the Toyota caliper. The caliper is not designed for bango fittings. If used they will not seal and they will leak. There are many options for brake lines for the Toyota swap discussed in the brake forum. Search.

If you don't have a need for it, why would you want to modify the differential or any other component? Keep in mind that cars are designed by engineers as a system of parts selected to work together. Often when you modify a part it creates a domino effect that results in degrading the performance of some other part. For example, so called popular "brake ugrades" often result in less braking performance! Modifications are fine, but there can be unintended consequences that cost more to fix or result in an unsafe car.

Before you think about modifications you need to decide how you will use the car. Next you need to plan every detail of how you will build the car you want. Also, you need to study and learn about the Z car and any modifications before asking questions. People will be more responsive to informed questions. Good luck.

Buy this book: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It tells you how to take apart, restore and re-assmble your Z car with lots of pictures. It will save you many many hours searching for "how to" information! The book is available several places such as: https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466101164&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+restore+your+z+car+humble You must download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 1970 240Z. There are links to the FSM here on HybridZ. This is the manual the Datsun dealerships used to maintain 240Zs. For the SU carb maintenance go to the Z Therapy website and buy the video "Just SUs". It explains how to maintain and repair SU carbs. Z Therapy also sells quality parts for the Su carbs. Z Therapy: http://www.ztherapy.com Parts: Black Dragon: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm Motor Sports Auto (MSA): http://www.zcarparts.com/ Always use jack stands when working under a car. Keep the car stock for now and focus on making the car safe and reliable. You will be learning as you do this. Beware of "upgrades" you read about on the internet. Many are not upgrades at all and may be unsafe if not done correctly. Other websites: http://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

How about a oil pressure activated switch that cuts off power to the fuel pump when the engine quits as per JTR? My research on inertia safety switches about 10 years ago indicated that the inertia switches could activate going over small bumps so I went the oil pressure switch route. The output of my switch goes to a Painless fuel pump relay that is wired to the fuel pump using the stock green fuel pump wire located next to the glove compartment. JTR gives the full wiring directions. Also, see this link: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59944-onoff-switch-for-fuel-pump/?hl=%2Binertia+%2Bsafety+%2Bswitch&do=findComment&comment=555712

This is the fan I am now using:

Google T5 transmission service manual pdf and download it

Yes, normal. Next time add fluid after it is installed. Use a hand pump and some hose that fits in the fill hole. Fluid should be level with the bottom of the fill hole.

thanks