Miles

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Per Blue: Web site was hacked.... it is being rebuilt. Stand-by. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55987-blues-tech-tips/

Fuel pump safety switch: See post 2 in link below http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125512-fuel-injection-cut-off-switch-inertia-safety-switch/

http://www.ztrix.com/hoods/hood-with-cooling-vents.html

Why not take it apart so it drys out and you can clean out the silt/mud. A friend once drove his 57 Pontiac into Lake Folsom where it sat for day. We dried it out. Getting the silt out took some time. If it were me I would: Pull the engine and remove the heads, oil pan etc to determine if corrosion has set in. Blow out all of the ports etc. Pull Transmission and clutch. Pull the cover off of the differential to get all of the water out Remove all of the interior to allow air to get to the openings, compartments and the wiring harnesses. Remove the gas tank to wash out the silt. Blow out the fuel lines. etc

This is the fuel pump I use with a SBC 350. Installed it seven years ago. No problems. Output pressure is adjustable. Not much noise. Be sure to install a fuel pressure gauge. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1791 ":The JTR manual says to mount near the gas tank" Correct. Fuel pumps push better than they suck. Be sure to search the fuel forum for more information about which fuel pump to use as the topic has been discussed many many times.

sebaskir: Bolt Sizes for front differential cross member go here and page down to a picture/ table showing bolt sizes: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26238-my-swiss-1972-s30-240z-rebuild-project/page-22 And: https://zcardepot.com/suspension/rear-suspension/rear-control-arm-transverse-bolt-kit-240z-260z-280z.html From my notes: Diff Cross Member - 4 each 10 x 1.25 30mm long 30mm thread length (i.e., not a shoulder bolt) As with all information on the web - trust but verify

Or you could use a 280Z hood that has the cut outs. Plus the holes in the 280Z hood are recessed for the louvers.

That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok? Do you have specs on the switch?

Nice! We need a section in the Electrical forum that centralizes all of the information on combo switch repair. Like the section recently set up for Cooling Systems. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Google this: "240z electrical schematic" Many Z owners have made color electrical schematics. Also: "240Z combination switch repair" Many how-to repair/wire combo switch write ups by Z owners. Some have all of the wires to the combo switch identified by color and function. See attached example.

First try search I got this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104419-s30-and-s130-wiring-harness-repair-kits-you-need-this-if-you-have-an-l28e-or-l28et/?hl=%2Belectrical+%2Bconnector+%2Bsource Also, search for Dave the headlight harness guy (vendor section). He is the most informed member on Z electrical equipment I am aware of and may have sources for the connectors you seek. Keep searching as I recall threads on sourcing connectors within the last two years e.g., http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/64233-help-finding-electrical-connectors-240z-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=600039

Take your time and look at several Z cars.

^^^^ what NewZed said plus it is not a $12k car. My top two priorities in buying Z cars is minimum rust and unmolested electrical wiring. Trust but verify.

Looks more like a family sedan then a sports car.

Those are not tack welds. Tacked it and then welded to full penetration. Note that the brackets (aka hangers) changed from year to year. Mine were from an 89 240SX.

Attached pictures show the 240SX parking brake bracket. The hole where the 240Z parking brake cable attaches to the 240SX bracket is too big so I modified the bracket by cutting off the end and welding on the cable attachment part of a 240Z bracket.

Just replace the clutch MC and slave.

Since you took the clutch pedal apart, check adjustment of the rod that connects to the clutch pedal. Also, prevent future mistakes by down loading the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. PDF copies are available elsewhere in HybridZ.

Perhaps this will help: http://www.driven-daily.com/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades For the Toyota swaps you don't need washers to space anything. Something is wrong if you do. Recommend that you do a lot of searching in the Brake and FAQ Brake forums. That should clear things up.

Fan comparison data: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1816636-markviii-vs-spal-duals.html

Nigel Looks like bad machining by Wilwood. Wilwood seems to lack quality control. I bought two 1 inch Wilwood MCs that leaked internally right out of the box. The third Wilwood MC I bought was ok and has been on the car for five years. I recall another member saying that the Wilwood 1 inch MC he bought had a problem with damaged output ports/cones/fittings.

Before answering your questions we need to know: What year and model Z car do you have? Has the brake system been modified? Posting pictures helps. If you know the year and model (240Z, 260Z, 280Z), you can order the correct booster for your car. Motorsports Auto and Black Dragon sell the booster. You absolutely need to download the correct Factory Service Manual (FSM) if you are going to own a Z car. There are links to the FSM sites elsewhere on HybridZ. At minimum, you should have a 240Z Haynes manual. You can also Google "how to replace 240Z booster" and search HybridZ as booster replacement has been posted many many times. If the master cylinder is good you do not have to remove it. Just unbolt it from the booster and push it to the side. This will save having to bench bleed the MC and the rest of the brake system. Instructions for bench bleeding can be found here and on the internet. Be safe. If you are not comfortable with working on brake systems take the car to a brake shop.

ECU? What year is your Z. Helps if you can be more descriptive and precise in your posts. Can you post pictures?

The most complete engine wiring instructions are in the JTR Datsun Z V8 conversion manual. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html