Miles

For the mustache bar bushings burn out the old rubber bushing and leave the sleeve.

This is just sad.

Here is some info I got at ClassicZcar.com....................... Per Blue: Web site was hacked.... it is being rebuilt. Stand-by. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55987-blues-tech-tips/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4960-hood-latch/?hl=%2Bhood+%2Brelease+%2Bbroke http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107117-howto-release-a-240z-hood-when-cable-broken/

So did you solve the brake problem?

1. Pulling to one side suggests a stuck/leaking caliper. 2. Hot front brakes on both sides suggests: Brakes dragging due to improperly adjusted master cylinder push rod. Are the rear brakes hot too? If yes check the push rod. Unbalanced or undersized brakes: Rear brakes undersized. Improper rear brake PV adjustment (to much front bias). Brake pad selection. Drive the car around 4 - 5 miles in a safe area staying off the brakes as much as possible and pull off road and check front and rear temperature of the calipers/wheels. If both front and rear brakes are hot then they are dragging possibly due to the push rod issue. If the front brakes are hotter relative to the rear brakes then there may be a front bias issue due to undersized rear brakes, PV adjustment or brake pad selection. If the fronts are pulling then inspect them. A weak/sticking caliper will cause the opposite caliper to grab and pull. If you find a bad caliper replace both sides. Let us know what the road test shows.

Just curious if anyone has used Professional Products Powerflow piston-style fuel pumps. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10731

^^^^^^ what LLAVE said above. Can you be more specific? Do you notice any other issues such as back firing when you open the throttle? You have to provide details about your build such as which engine, modifications to engine, how was the engine installed (MSA, JTR etc), which carb did you install, what type of headers were used etc

Go on line to Naps or Black Dragon and see what they have.

Seems like we all went over this with you a while back. You have the push rod adjusted too long such that fluid pressure is building up each time you push the brake pedal causing the brakes to lock. Open the bleeders on the MC to relieve the pressure and readjust the push rod as outlined in the FSM or search in the brake forum. Search the brake forum for "push rod adjustment".

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Per Blue: Web site was hacked.... it is being rebuilt. Stand-by. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55987-blues-tech-tips/

Fuel pump safety switch: See post 2 in link below http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125512-fuel-injection-cut-off-switch-inertia-safety-switch/

http://www.ztrix.com/hoods/hood-with-cooling-vents.html

Why not take it apart so it drys out and you can clean out the silt/mud. A friend once drove his 57 Pontiac into Lake Folsom where it sat for day. We dried it out. Getting the silt out took some time. If it were me I would: Pull the engine and remove the heads, oil pan etc to determine if corrosion has set in. Blow out all of the ports etc. Pull Transmission and clutch. Pull the cover off of the differential to get all of the water out Remove all of the interior to allow air to get to the openings, compartments and the wiring harnesses. Remove the gas tank to wash out the silt. Blow out the fuel lines. etc

This is the fuel pump I use with a SBC 350. Installed it seven years ago. No problems. Output pressure is adjustable. Not much noise. Be sure to install a fuel pressure gauge. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1791 ":The JTR manual says to mount near the gas tank" Correct. Fuel pumps push better than they suck. Be sure to search the fuel forum for more information about which fuel pump to use as the topic has been discussed many many times.

sebaskir: Bolt Sizes for front differential cross member go here and page down to a picture/ table showing bolt sizes: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26238-my-swiss-1972-s30-240z-rebuild-project/page-22 And: https://zcardepot.com/suspension/rear-suspension/rear-control-arm-transverse-bolt-kit-240z-260z-280z.html From my notes: Diff Cross Member - 4 each 10 x 1.25 30mm long 30mm thread length (i.e., not a shoulder bolt) As with all information on the web - trust but verify

Or you could use a 280Z hood that has the cut outs. Plus the holes in the 280Z hood are recessed for the louvers.

That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok? Do you have specs on the switch?

Nice! We need a section in the Electrical forum that centralizes all of the information on combo switch repair. Like the section recently set up for Cooling Systems. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Google this: "240z electrical schematic" Many Z owners have made color electrical schematics. Also: "240Z combination switch repair" Many how-to repair/wire combo switch write ups by Z owners. Some have all of the wires to the combo switch identified by color and function. See attached example.

First try search I got this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104419-s30-and-s130-wiring-harness-repair-kits-you-need-this-if-you-have-an-l28e-or-l28et/?hl=%2Belectrical+%2Bconnector+%2Bsource Also, search for Dave the headlight harness guy (vendor section). He is the most informed member on Z electrical equipment I am aware of and may have sources for the connectors you seek. Keep searching as I recall threads on sourcing connectors within the last two years e.g., http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/64233-help-finding-electrical-connectors-240z-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=600039

Take your time and look at several Z cars.

^^^^ what NewZed said plus it is not a $12k car. My top two priorities in buying Z cars is minimum rust and unmolested electrical wiring. Trust but verify.