Miles

MSA SELLS A "RETRO" seatbelt that bolts in the stock location.

Is this your valve cover?

To be clear, the Z belts attach to large bolts behind the seats. The body is reinforced where the bolts are located. The seats are bolted to sheet metal suports.

Are you aware that the Z seats are only fastened to the body with four small bolts through sheet metal? The seat would simply rip out of its' attachment points in an accident. Note that the Z seat belts are attached to the body with large bolts. What ever seats and seat belts you decide on, use the stock attachment points.

Hope you will find this helpful: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a 240z Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/ http://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

I installed higher wattage bulbs and removed the green filters in the gauges. Bright white now.

Seattlejester: Too much caffeine this morning? Watch John Belushi https://video.yahoo.com/weekend-john-belushi-march-000000303.html

There seems to be a good inventory of Z cars in the in Francisco Bay area. Purchased two 240Zs there.

No way that car is worth $6000. You can get an unmolested 240Z for about $3000 that runs and drives. Don't make an offer. Walk away.

Pictures of typical stub axle failure points.

Access to a heat treat oven where the temperature could be controlled would be ideal. Opinion: personally, I wouldn't use heat unless you absolutely can't get the cover to seal.

Ditto RebkahsZ. Bent stub axles can cause problems. I found that slightly bent stub axle flanges on my 240Z with 240SX rear calipers caused the pads to drag. Didn't catch it until I checked the run out on each stub axle flange. I had the flanges machined, but they were too far out. I ended up buying the Chequered Flag stub axles and all has been well since. Remember the 240Z stub axles were designed to work with drum brakes so flange run out wasn't much of a problem.

You may want to consider these stub axles: http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Could just be that the bearings need to be replaced. Also, check the runout on the wheel mounting flange. The flange is soft and can be bent hitting a curb. A bent mounting flange would cause the wheel to wobble. Of course, check all of the rotating assemblies such as the drive shaft, half-shafts etc.

Save yourself a bunch of problems and just rebuild the stock brakes and keep them well maintained.

go here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o03d/30-3201

One these seals? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZRS1.htm

^^^^^^ what Z240 said. Return them.

Note he said: I want to say it looked like maybe 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch in the middle with the two covers being held flange to flange. Holding the valve covers flange to flange does not give a true picture of how much the cover is actually warped. He needs to place the covers on a flat surface and measure how much the flange deviates from the table.

You might try Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker in addition to whatever gasket you choose. I use this to seal the front and rear gaps on SBC intakes. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PER3/25229/N2362.oap?ck=Search_N2362_-1_-1&pt=N2362&ppt=C1984

If you lay the covers on a flat surface how big is the gap between the surface and the cover? 1/16", 1/8", 1/4" ?? Pictures?

I had a the same problem and used a thicker gasket. A Felpro as I recall. And a set of valve cover clamps like these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9817

How did you delete the differential pressure switch (block under MC)?

Perhaps the Nissan engineers wanted the pads to ride closer to the rotors for better brake feel??? Are the 240Z and 280ZX calipers of low drag design (piston retracts further into the cylinder)? That might explain the residual pressure valves in a master cylinder used for disk brakes. GM came out with low drag calipers in 1980 where the piston retracts further into the cylinder. This requires an extra squirt of fluid to get the piston moving towards the rotor. So they had to design a "fast fill" master cylinder to provide the extra fluid volume. Google "fast fill master cylinder" and "low drag caliper." Some of the hot rod guys using fast fill GM calipers resolve their "low brake pedal" problems by installing 10psi check valves in the brake system.