Miles

I was just researching this. There may be an answer here: https://www.google.com/search?q=convert+280z+fuel+injection+to+SU+carbs&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Back fire through carb = too lean Too lean = lean mixture adjustment or air leak or both. Resolve all air leaks and reset mixture per the video

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68608-windshield-install/

How to videos. Note he installs the center trim before installing the windshield.

Buy this book: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It tells you how to take apart, restore and re-assmble your Z car with lots of pictures. It will save you many many hours searching for "how to" information! The book is available several places such as: https://www.amazon.c...ur z car humble You should download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 240Z. There are links to the FSM here on HybridZ. This is the manual the Datsun dealerships used to maintain 240Zs. For now, perhaps this picture will provide some insight into what that line is for.

So yes, in California the cut off is still1975 and older. But it is not a show stopper. As long as the engine swap meets the emission requirements for the chosen car and the engine you can get a smog sticker from the state that makes the car legal. Much discussion in the various forums and you can Google for the detailed rules.

forgot the X. Here is the corrected Google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=300zx+engine+in+a+280zx&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Re California SMOG Law Change California Legislation S.B. 1239 came up for vote in June 2016, but did not get enough votes to pass.

Been done many many times. Look in the "Other Engines Forum" for details. Google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=300zx+engine+in+a+280zx&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Use the rope trick to reinstall. Tip: install the center stainless trim before working widow into place.

Most likely the MC push rod is adjusted too far out which will block the return port in the MC. With the return port blocked pressure will build up with each application of the brakes until they drag/lockup. Test: Open the bleeder ports on the MC when the brakes drag. This will release the pressure and unlock the brakes demonstrating that the push rod is adjusted too long. You can adjust the push rod without removing the MC. Remove the retaining nuts on the MC and push it aside to access the push rod. Make small incremental adjustments followed by road test each time. Carry a wrench that fits the bleeders on each road test in case you lockup the brakes. If you back off the push rod too far your brake pedal travel will be long and grab. All you need is about 1mm clearance between the push rod and the MC piston. Research the brake section as this problem has been discussed many many times.

MSA/JTR not cheap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html

You may be able to get a new sending unit from an auto parts store and the adapter from Lowes etc. That is how I did mine. Wrapped the threads with teflon tape. No leaks in 10 years. Black Dragon is going out of business, but they may have the sending unit if your local auto parts store doesn't have one.

MSA sells the sensor and fitting. This is what the fitting looks like: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1878

For the mustache bar bushings burn out the old rubber bushing and leave the sleeve.

This is just sad.

Here is some info I got at ClassicZcar.com....................... Per Blue: Web site was hacked.... it is being rebuilt. Stand-by. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55987-blues-tech-tips/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4960-hood-latch/?hl=%2Bhood+%2Brelease+%2Bbroke http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107117-howto-release-a-240z-hood-when-cable-broken/

So did you solve the brake problem?

1. Pulling to one side suggests a stuck/leaking caliper. 2. Hot front brakes on both sides suggests: Brakes dragging due to improperly adjusted master cylinder push rod. Are the rear brakes hot too? If yes check the push rod. Unbalanced or undersized brakes: Rear brakes undersized. Improper rear brake PV adjustment (to much front bias). Brake pad selection. Drive the car around 4 - 5 miles in a safe area staying off the brakes as much as possible and pull off road and check front and rear temperature of the calipers/wheels. If both front and rear brakes are hot then they are dragging possibly due to the push rod issue. If the front brakes are hotter relative to the rear brakes then there may be a front bias issue due to undersized rear brakes, PV adjustment or brake pad selection. If the fronts are pulling then inspect them. A weak/sticking caliper will cause the opposite caliper to grab and pull. If you find a bad caliper replace both sides. Let us know what the road test shows.

Just curious if anyone has used Professional Products Powerflow piston-style fuel pumps. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10731

^^^^^^ what LLAVE said above. Can you be more specific? Do you notice any other issues such as back firing when you open the throttle? You have to provide details about your build such as which engine, modifications to engine, how was the engine installed (MSA, JTR etc), which carb did you install, what type of headers were used etc

Go on line to Naps or Black Dragon and see what they have.

Seems like we all went over this with you a while back. You have the push rod adjusted too long such that fluid pressure is building up each time you push the brake pedal causing the brakes to lock. Open the bleeders on the MC to relieve the pressure and readjust the push rod as outlined in the FSM or search in the brake forum. Search the brake forum for "push rod adjustment".