Miles

I wouldn't count on getting pictures. I would start with downloading the factory service manual (FSM). They are available here and you can google search for them. Search for electrical schematics. Many members have made color schematics in pdf format that you can download.

Before you took the car apart, did you number each wire and make a wire list? Did you take pictures of the wire harnesses and the connections?

See this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29786-painless-harness-to-z-column-harness-headlight-combo-switch/

The Painless wiring harness install has been documented here for some time including a complete tutorial on how to install it. You can wire the entire car with it. Search: "painless"

Autozone and other parts stores will test it for free.

Pedal throw a bit long?

0.875 Clutch Master Cylinder : used both of these…… http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10374 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-875 Camero clutch slave Napa NCF 73110 Clutch kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-HP1675-1A Flywheel http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-50-6516 Clutch slave hose adaptor http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281 Hitachi Gear Reduction Starter Hitachi starter gear reduction PSL100

I have used 1990 Camaro World Class T5 transmissions in two 240Z SBC 350 builds. Both cars were built as daily drivers (son's college car, my work car). The five speed is highly appreciated on freeways and road trips. The T5 is tilted towards the driver's side, but poses no problem for installation. Use the Camaro bell housing so that the rear trans mount is horizontal. Only a small amount of trimming is required on the left side of the trans hump where the shift tower comes up through the floor. I have pictures if you need them.

edit

When you install the next set of hoses, move the suspension through full travel while observing the hose to make sure it is not rubbing or kinking.

Sounds good.

As long as your brake set up is front biased, installing a pressure limiting device on the rear brake circuit would not do anything to improve the problem. Remember a PV can not raise the brake pressure - it limits it. The so called brake upgrades for our Z cars (Toyota - Maxima, Toyota - 240SX etc.) typically result in a front to rear ratio of 60f/40r to 70f/30r. The only way you can have a balanced brake system is to design it by the numbers taking into consideration factors such as master cylinder size, brake rotor diameter, number of pistons in the caliper, pad friction coefficient etc. If you do the brake torque calculations you will see what I mean. Yes, you can replace the brake pressure differential valve (aka brake switch) with a three-way connector as shown in the attached picture. Do not consider "gutting" the switch as you would be connecting the front and rear brake circuits together. Anything you change will have a domino effect because brake systems are engineered to work as a system. There are many many threads here dealing with brake bias issues. You may want to study them before making any changes to your brake system.

Don't do anything. A PV would only be required if the rear brakes were more effective than the front brakes. That is "rear biased". Almost all of the so called front - rear disk "upgrades" result in too much front brake bias. So installing a PV is counter intuitive. The differential pressure safety switch turns on a red light on the dash if there is a leak in the front or rear brake circuits. All that happens is the piston inside moves to the low pressure side if there is a leak on that side and turns on the red light. That is it. Removing the differential pressure safety switch does not improve anything. Leave it alone. If one front caliper is working better than the other caliper, then the caliper on the other side is defective. A number of things can cause this, usually a stuck piston or a leaking seal.

Nice

go here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21a11

http://www.zparts.com/tutorials/brkdrum/brkdrum_remove.html

You may already know this, use a locknut from a 280ZX instead of the stock nut. The 280ZX is self locking. The stock nut has to be peened against the axle shaft which makes future disassembly difficult. Also, make sure that the bearings and grease seasl are perfectly seated before tightening the lock nut.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "Just SUs". Watch the video a few times and the SU carb will be very easy to tune and work on.

If your mixture adjustments are reasonably close you may want to consider other reasons for flooding: Float adjustment, Verify float level is set to factory specs. Sticking/stuck needle valve. Fuel level in bowel set to match top of jet. If fuel level in the bowel is higher than the top of the jet fuel will just drain out through the jet! There is a procedure for checking this using a clear plastic hose.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "Just SUs". You are going to need it. http://www.ztherapy.com/

The first Scarab: http://www.wsj.com/articles/was-the-scarab-an-original-minivan-1435675078 http://www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/z9131/Stout-Scarab.aspx.aspx

The Chequered stub axles installed and fit perfectly. No they are not used in competition. I have had stock stub axles break under normal daily driving as in the attached picture. The Chequered axles will probably outlast the car.

Check for vacuum leaks. Check floats. Check linkages http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?86104-Su-Carbs-Won-t-Idle

When the idle speed starts falling, what happens if you put the choke on?

Go here and buy the "Just SUs" video: http://www.ztherapy.com/