Miles

3.54

What percent of the time will your Z be a daily driver?

post pictures of the booster and the areas you are having trouble with.

I prefer the FSM also, but the Haynes Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z Manual does contain some answers to his questions such as how to adjust the MC push rod. There are many many write ups in the brake forum that explain or answer most of his questions.

answers are in the brake forum and the FSM or Haynes manual for your car. Also, you may want to take the car to a brake shop.

wrong forum

Follow the hydraulic line. You can't miss it. Clutch master/slave bleeding...... I prefer to use the gravity drip method. Fill the MC with fluid. Place a drip pan under the slave cylinder once you find it. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Let fluid flow out of the slave bleed screw Let it drip for about 5 to 10 minutes. Do not allow the MC to empty out. Keep it topped of until you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. After you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Pump the clutch pedal once or twice and you should have a firm pedal. If the pedal is not firm, repeat the gravity drip steps above. If you can not get a firm pedal after several tries then either, or both, cylinders are leaking internally.

Lots of T5s here in sacramento. In 2001 I bought a T5 at a wrecking yard for $600. In 2009 I bought a rebuilt T5 for $800. Do places like Summit sell Camaro T5s?

That is amazing. Too much work for me though.

I recommend that you buy the Jags that run 240Z V8 conversion manual as it answers all of your issues in detail. Search the drivetrain section for T5 installs.

As long as you leave some free play in pedal movement it doesn't matter. That is, you do not want to pre-load the MC. Adjust it so there is free play and so the pedal still has full engagement.

I wouldn't count on getting pictures. I would start with downloading the factory service manual (FSM). They are available here and you can google search for them. Search for electrical schematics. Many members have made color schematics in pdf format that you can download.

Before you took the car apart, did you number each wire and make a wire list? Did you take pictures of the wire harnesses and the connections?

See this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29786-painless-harness-to-z-column-harness-headlight-combo-switch/

The Painless wiring harness install has been documented here for some time including a complete tutorial on how to install it. You can wire the entire car with it. Search: "painless"

Autozone and other parts stores will test it for free.

Pedal throw a bit long?

0.875 Clutch Master Cylinder : used both of these…… http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10374 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-875 Camero clutch slave Napa NCF 73110 Clutch kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-HP1675-1A Flywheel http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-50-6516 Clutch slave hose adaptor http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281 Hitachi Gear Reduction Starter Hitachi starter gear reduction PSL100

I have used 1990 Camaro World Class T5 transmissions in two 240Z SBC 350 builds. Both cars were built as daily drivers (son's college car, my work car). The five speed is highly appreciated on freeways and road trips. The T5 is tilted towards the driver's side, but poses no problem for installation. Use the Camaro bell housing so that the rear trans mount is horizontal. Only a small amount of trimming is required on the left side of the trans hump where the shift tower comes up through the floor. I have pictures if you need them.

edit

When you install the next set of hoses, move the suspension through full travel while observing the hose to make sure it is not rubbing or kinking.

Sounds good.

As long as your brake set up is front biased, installing a pressure limiting device on the rear brake circuit would not do anything to improve the problem. Remember a PV can not raise the brake pressure - it limits it. The so called brake upgrades for our Z cars (Toyota - Maxima, Toyota - 240SX etc.) typically result in a front to rear ratio of 60f/40r to 70f/30r. The only way you can have a balanced brake system is to design it by the numbers taking into consideration factors such as master cylinder size, brake rotor diameter, number of pistons in the caliper, pad friction coefficient etc. If you do the brake torque calculations you will see what I mean. Yes, you can replace the brake pressure differential valve (aka brake switch) with a three-way connector as shown in the attached picture. Do not consider "gutting" the switch as you would be connecting the front and rear brake circuits together. Anything you change will have a domino effect because brake systems are engineered to work as a system. There are many many threads here dealing with brake bias issues. You may want to study them before making any changes to your brake system.

Don't do anything. A PV would only be required if the rear brakes were more effective than the front brakes. That is "rear biased". Almost all of the so called front - rear disk "upgrades" result in too much front brake bias. So installing a PV is counter intuitive. The differential pressure safety switch turns on a red light on the dash if there is a leak in the front or rear brake circuits. All that happens is the piston inside moves to the low pressure side if there is a leak on that side and turns on the red light. That is it. Removing the differential pressure safety switch does not improve anything. Leave it alone. If one front caliper is working better than the other caliper, then the caliper on the other side is defective. A number of things can cause this, usually a stuck piston or a leaking seal.

Nice