Miles

Suggest that you spend several days researching "brake bias" and brake upgrade issues on HybridZ. All of the anwers are here concerning brake bias and proportioning valves. The Toyota S12w front and Maxima rear setup is highly biased towards the front. That being the case, a proportioning valve, which only installs on the rear brakes, will reduce pressure to the rear brakes making the front-rear bias issue worse. In other words, braking performance will not be improved with this so called upgrade. And a proportioning valve on the front brakes is dangerous. You can waste a lot of money trying to correct the bias issue experimenting with pad combinations. Note that most street "performance pads" such as Hawk have poor cold bite which is what you don't want when the guy in front of slams on his brakes. Do a Google search "Hawk pads cold bite" and for other pads etc. Well maintained stock brakes are fine. By the way, the rear axle shafts were designed to work with drum brakes. If the wheel mounting flange of the axle shaft is warped it will cause the pads to drag on any disk upgrade. Recommend that you check the runout on your flanges before installing any rear disk brake setup. The flanges can be turned up to a point to correct the warp. Rear wheel bearing issues can also cause pads to rub on the disk. If you do the rear disk swap replace the wheel bearings at the same time and reassemble the stub axle per the Factory Service Manual (FSM).

Getting this on random threads. forums.hybridz.org Driver Error

Buy one of these with the generic adaptor fitting: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ The Motive bleeder is the next best thing to gravity feed and it makes brake repair a one man operation. Makes it easy to bleed those Maxima or 240SX calipers where the bleed screw is not vertical. Brake Differential Pressure Safety Switch: See pictures. The brake switch has a piston that shuttles to the low side of the brake system if there is a leak in the front or rear brake circuits. As the piston moves towards the low pressure side it makes contact with the wire that turns on the brake failure light. I took mine appart and it appears that the piston will return to the central position once pressure is equal for the front and rear brake circuits. I found no mechanism that locks the piston in the rear or front brake circuit position. If the piston/cylinder is corroded, then the piston may stick in the bore and not return to the center position. My switch was badly corroded inside so I removed it and replumbed the lines to the master cylinder. Do not "gut" the brake switch. If you do you will tie the front and rear brake circuits together. Most likley, once you have all of the air out of the brake system the brake switch will not be an issue Again, bench bleed the master cylinder until there are zero bubbles. When you see no bubbles let the MC sit for awhile to allow small bubbles to gather and then pump the piston and bleed a few more times. Be methodical. Start with the MC and work each caliper until there is no air.

Explaination how heater controls work: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/14147-1971-240z-heater-controls.html

In the future: Note that the bleed nipple on the rear caliper (Maxima or 240SX?) is not vertical. Unbolt the caliper, leaving the hose connected, and place a block about the thickness of the rotor between the pads. You do not want the pistons to blow out of the caliper. While holding the caliper so that the nipple is pointing up have your assistant pump the brakes. Rotate the caliper in various orientations to free up trapped air bubbles so they move towards the nipple. Repeat several times. Also, installing speed bleeders on the MC makes bleeding easier.

Tilton 7/8" MC, braided -3 line, McLeod -3 to roll-pin adaptor (Summit) connects the line to a stock Camaro slave. Works good. For my 240Z I swapped the clutch master cylinder push rod from the Z MC to the Tilton MC. That way the Tilton uses the Z clevis and directly connects to the clutch pedal.

Compare here: http://www.ztherapy.com/

Look here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/64233-help-finding-electrical-connectors-240z-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=600039

Here is a good discussion about the solid mount with some creative solutions: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/42873-solid-diff-mounts-cause-failures/?hl= differential front mount

There is a member here named Dave who makes headlight relay harnesses etc.. Search for: HLS30-08077 Dave may know where to buy 240Z style electrical connectors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

As a start, go to the Flex-a Lite fan website or to Summit Racing and find what the rated amp draw is for the model fan you have. Check the actual amp draw of the fans when they are running. Does the amp reading exceed factory specs for the fan? What is the rated amp output of your alternator? Go to Autozone etc. and have the alteranator checked. The tech should be able to tell you the voltage and amperage output for your alternator. Write down the test results. Also, check the battery while at Autozone. You could have weak or failing alternator and/or battery or undersized alternator. Providing the above data will help others diagnose the problem.

From Jeromio's website: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html

I had read that in several posts before I did the poly U bushings in the rear and the solid front mount. Some Z builders have welded additional stiffeners to the front cross member and added material where the nose bolts to the cross member. Search for some pictures of failed cross members. They tend to fatigue and crack along the sides of the mount I suspect that a few hard launches and/or burnouts in a V8 Z would trash the cross member when using the solid mount. I have been using stock cross members with the solid mount for years in both stock and V8 applications and haven't seen any stress cracks so far, but I don't abuse them either.

Are there any issues with the RTZ mount? If my solid mount ever has a problem I would look into the RTZ mount as long as it doesn't throw the driveline angles off. Also consider what Jeromio did: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html

This is what I have used on two V8 240Z projects: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2296 Both cars driven daily for over ten years with no problems. The noise issue is exaggerated! There is no movement and there is very little increase in noise. Install it and move on to something else.

It depends on which caliper you want: vented or solid?

Some of the parts (search Hybridz) for 240Z racks have been NLA for years. Call the vendors and ask them what parts were replaced and what exactly did they do to "remanufacture the rack". In the past I have purchased "rebuilt" racks only to find that they were as worn and sloppy as my old rack. It looked like all they did was repaint the rack and install new boots.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/differential/index.htm

Time to download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). They are available free elsewhere on HybridZ and all over the web. search "280Z FSM" or "280Z factory service manual" etc. Also, get a Haynes manual for 280Z.

Determine ratio by counting rotations method: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/WhatRearEndRatio.htm Or you can pull the cover and look at the markings stamped on the ring gear. Read the tech articles at Zhome.com etc.

See picture.

Or old age!

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/