Tim240z

Sweet McClaren F1!!! Tim

I got my driveshaft made by Cannon Engineering. http://www.cannonengineering.com/ These are the part numbers on the invoice. I am sure that they are some kind of generic part that any driveshaft should be able to look up. I'll post pictures this evening. Tim

Yeah, does it make the same creeking sound when entering a driveway, or other uneven surface? I bet it's the chassis(unibody) twisting. Tim

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=204102#204102

Opened a new topic to make searching easier later on. Just picked up my driveshaft for the T56 to R230. Here are the part numbers for the Tube flange and Universal joint (serviceable) at the R230 Diff. side: 1310 U-Joint: NEUJ 1 0153 1310 Q-45 Conversion Flange: FLNG 3102 69 Hope this helps folks! Tim BTW...My driveshaft (using the stock Z28 shaft, shortening, welding flange, both new universals and balancing) cost; $200.14 incl. tax

EEEWWWW...it looks like one of those mud hopper fish!! Needs some angular accents. Tim

Maybe his house burned down?

How about a bottle of RainX anti fog? Works pretty well. Tim

That is actually a fallacy. The reason to restrict the flow is is to build pressure in the system. Without the restriction, pressure would not build and the boiling point of the coolant would be lowered to the point that hot spots or steam pockets would be created around the cylinders. Tim

If you don't have a GPS unit, they are well worth it. Among other things, they can tell you speed and distance, very accurately. The Garmin E-Trex Legend is very good and is less than $300. Tim

The buyer has them up for sale again...funny auction!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3153709387 Tim

Yeah A bit high...esp. since it's been in an accident.

I used the tape and filler method to recreate my body lines (after some metal work first). The system works very well with a long sanding block. Tim

Hi...I did meet you at the MSA show. Nicely turned out car!! I believe that pictures of it were floating around on here at some point!! Welcome!! Tim

Well.....been there done that. As for the doors, I welded and filled/smoothed the holes that the oem mirrors mounted to, so I did a lot of sanding in that area. I also had to recreate both upper body lines on the doors (as well as other places). Anyways...to your question....get a rubber sanding 'pad' from a bodyshop. It's about 1/4 inch thick with holes through it and one side is 'knurled' (to grip the sand paper I assume). I also found that the curved handle side of a sanding block works well. The kind of sanding block that you wrap the sand paper under the flaps and it's held in place by little pins. That has worked the best for me because the hand side has a gradient to it, so changing the angle that you hold it changes the sanding curve. See here for the results: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27591 Hope that makes sense... Tim

OK, I have some info for you (well sort of). I dropped my Z28 donor driveshaft off yesterday, and they have an off the shelf flange and u-joint (serviceable) for the R230. I will get you the part numbers tomorrow when I pick it up. Tim

DAmn Mike....thats' fuggin sweet!!!! Well done!!! Tim

Thanks for all the well wishes guys!! Guess what I got from the parents-in-law?!!! G-Tech Pro!! Whoo Hoo!! But sh!T, the owners manual is thicker than the Manual for my Z28!! Tim

Yeah...kinda like KITT on Knight Rider!! Tim

I am getting them more and more regularly when navigating through the HZ site, and the refresh rate seems to be slow at times: Tim

The usual suspects also carry them: Jegs Summit JC Whitney Tim

Hard to say when the SumBeech is standing next to the driver's door with pen and ticket book in hand Tim

If the PP bolts up to the new flywheel, and the disk fits ok, then you should be fine. Are you just buying stock replacement? Seems like an appropriate time to upgrade to a tougher clutch? Tim