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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Mark, I respectfully disagree. If the ally fuel lines are secured and buffered correctly, they will last practically forever. They are also easy to bens and flair....easier than any other material. I wouldn't ever hessitate using aluminum lines. Tim
  2. Don't mean to sound like an ass, but is the fan rotating the correct direction? Tim
  3. Nope that's not the one. I will find the contact info and post. Tim
  4. Yes I have tested it. There are 4 wires that have ign. hot, and one that has constant hot. Apart from starter juice, and gauges, that will start the car. Tim
  5. That is cool as hell!!!!
  6. Speedway engineering has quoted me 120-130 each for the shafts, brand new, not cut and resplined. They claimed that the hardness of the shafts are compromised when cutting and resplining. Tim
  7. I removed it so I could tuck the headers up more. Tim
  8. I'm using the HKS SSBOV on my stock 83ZXT. It is pretty loud and ricey, but the build quality seems very nice and so far have no leaking problems. The price is also very very good. Tim
  9. Although this is a very quick and easy way to check for power in a wire, you should remember to re-seal the puncture you make in the wire, otherwise it begins to corrode at that point, which down the road will cause you many a headache. I usually use liquid tape, with some regular electrical tape over that. Tim
  10. I guess I'm in the minority, but Jesse James is one EXTEME individual!! He gets to do some pretty cool sh1T, and come on.....who would love to just lay into a car that's pissed you off with a damn gattlin' gun!!! Damn, talk about stress relief!! Well anyway, I thought it was cool! BTW, I cancelled my cable subscription about 2 years ago. I was not about to pay $60 a month for 100 channels of crap, when I can get 10 channels of crap for free Tim
  11. Yup! Great minds think alike! (or "dumb one never differ"!) I used one threaded rod, drilled a hole in the bottom of the radiator support, and pop-rivetted a piece of 1inch angle aluminum to the bottom of the air dam. Has worked great so far. Tim
  12. Or possibly the rear main oil seal(s). You'll have to clean it up back there to find out. Tim
  13. Stony, I had the same problem with the cross bar in the main hoop. I spaced it back by 3 inches or so. A couple of pics on my site. It's a PITA to do, but doesn't take too long. Tim
  14. Here is a site that compares them all: http://www.emergent.com.au/200sx/ecudata.html Tim
  15. BTW...My machinist can supply these adapters for the following $$$$: Billet Aluminum: $45 plus shipping Cast Aluminum: $20 plus shipping. I got the cast one and will post a picture if you like. Tim
  16. It's pretty 'easy' to make your own system. It's easy, but VERY VERY time consuming. I got lucky and bought a system (from the header back) for $80 bucks or so (2.5 inch to 3 inch) with DynoMax Muffler. I built my own Tri-Y full length headers. PITA!!! For corrosion resistance, you could have your system High temp coated, expensive, but WAYYYYY cheaper than stainless. Tim
  17. That one that Brad posted looks absolutely beautiful!!!!, but I bet it's mucho dinero!!! Maybe two of the MSD pumps will provide enough. Not trying to push the MSD unit, but the price point is sooooo attractive! Tim
  18. How about this one: $76.99 at Summit. Should do the trick? Tim
  19. Auto. Although, if it's an LT1, then likely it's a 4L60E (the electronic version of the 700R4). Tim
  20. Hmmmm..... 85 degree here today. Can't wait for the weather to warm up again Tim
  21. I used the mounts from a V8 chevy truck (69-71). ( I happen to have a 71 Cheyenne 20, that I bought a new set of mounts for...it never got them ) They should be dirt cheap at your local parts store. Tim
  22. Don't know what version of the rules are, but found this on the net: Or this from 1999: Tim
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