Tim240z

Usually just holding the brake pedal and side stepping the agas pedal is enough to do it. The rear brakes don't hold as tight as the fronts. Otherwise installing a line lock on the front brakes will work better. Tim

Why bother even trying to look for one. They are so cheap, that even if I knew they were all good, if I had the head apart I would replace them!!Puff of smoke on shift is the same thing 'cause you generally accelerate when shifting, so I'm 99% sure it's valve seals (assuming the smoke is blue).(white smoke is water in chamber, black smoke is rich fuel/air mixture...a little oversimplified, but 'generally' true) Tim

I assume that you are going to put in new valves and guides? If so then obviously you will be putting in new seals! That should take care of any smoking issues. From the symptoms that you described, it is very likely that the seals were bad. As long as the head is still in good shape (which it is according to your shop), then problem solved. Make sure that the shop checks the head deck for straightness and skim if necessary, and remember to retorque the head after 500 miles or so. HTH. Tim

Stock manifolds don't work, so I would highly doubt these would either. Sorry Tim

Need more info on your setup. Are you running oem springs etc? Are they new, did you lower the car? Almost sounds like the rear suspension is running very close to the bump stops, thus lack of travel is making you the suspension. More details. Tim

There's always Varoom Varoom Psst Pssst!! Cubes+Boost= Tim

Craig, You're welcome. At least I know that I'm getting my money's worth out of the FSM!! My gauges are Autometer Ultra lites. Originally I bought a mechanical speedo (back when I was doing the Carb/automatic trans setup), but I sold the speedo and trans temp gauge and just last Thursday got me new electronic speedo from Summit. I had soiled underpants issues when I saw the price on those things!!!! $200 for a bloody speedo....outta control, but I paid it Tim

Ok Craig, Here you go! Data Link Connector (DLC): Cavity "A"= Ground (Blk/White) Cavity "B"= Diagnostic Request (White/Blk) Cavity "G"= Program input, keyless entry module Cavity "M"= Serial Data Line Fan Wiring: Red PCM Plug: Cavity "10" Secondary fan relay control (DK Blue) Cavity "11" Primary fan relay control (DK Green) Remember, these fan wires provide grounding, not power for the relay. Hope this helps, Tim BTW, while I have the FSM out, here's the auto trans wiring: Black PCM plug: #7 (lt grn) 1-2 shift control solenoid #13 (gry/wht) 3-2 shift control solenoid Blue PCM connector #2 (Lt blue/wht) pressure control solenoid low #11 (tan/blk) TCC solenoid control #28 (yel/blk) Trans fluid temp sensor signal Clear PCM plug: #15 (orn/blk) PNP [park/neutral position] sensor #16 (red/blk)pressure control solenoid high.

Quit gabbing and RACE already!! The suspense is killing me! PLEEEEEZZE shoot some vids. Tim

Craig, Depends. There is a primary and secondary fan wire (if running dual fans). I believe the primary one (I am only runnning 1 fan) is the # 16 green wire from the red PCM connector,but I am doing this from memory. I can check my FSM manual this evening. Both wires for the fan are green! Tim

Craig, The fan is hooked up by using the wire from the PCM to the Earth on the fan relay (the PCM provides a ground to complete the circuit). Sorry don't know about the auto Trans. All you need from the PCM for the DL connector is the 'serial data' line and the earth. Make sure you have a good ground for the earth. If you don't have a diagnostic connector, just about any OBD1 GM car is compatable. I got mine from a Cavalier. Can't remember for sure which pin the serial data goes to, but I think it's the "M" pin on the plug. BTW, mine is a 94 Z28, but I would imagine the wiring to be the same. Tim

Excellent point Cody. New tires need at least 100 to 200 miles on them before they are 'broken in'. If the tires have a high Natural Rubber content (most of the high end ones do), as opposed to synthetic rubber, that break in period is quite a bit longer due to the natural rubber 'oils' seeping out, especially if they have been on a shelf for a long time. Also keep in mind that new tires will never handle as well as older worn tires (in the Dry!). Tim

Heck, I just got a full sheet of 16 gauge sheetmetal and cut and welded. Cost me less than 20 bucks. But then I did not use the OEM frame rails...I did the subframe connector thing with 3x1 rectangular tubing. Tim

I dunno guys.....unless he put a crap load of Armor All on the tread area and left it overnight to 'soak in', I bet that the stuff was gone before he got out of his driveway. More likely he was trying to get the ass-end to step out. The fact that he was driving in the rain and with the traction control turned off make me think that he was just a little too enthusiastic going around the turn. I have put tire shine stuff on the tread surface before (for a show) and I can tell you that it's gone in about 5 rotations of the tire on the road. So yes he is a moron for driving way beyond his ability and wrecking out, but I doubt the armor all had anything to do with it. Tim

Guys, Pardon me for disagreeing here, but I think the term rims was used appropriately. After all, when refering to fitment of 'wheels' from one car type to another, the rims may fit whereas the wheels may not. Even though the rim off set and width and diameter may well work, the tire size fitted to that rim (making up the wheel) may cause the package not to fit. Just throwing my wrench in there Tim

Update: Marty at Raxle in Florida has spent a couple of weeks looking into solutions for CV joints and came up empty. It seems the ONLY solution at this point is to buy 2 pairs of axles to get 4 inner CV joints Tim

Denny, Depends on your transmission type (length) and engine placement. I am having my final shaft made 27 inches long, so I'm sure that 32 inches will give you PLENTY of room to cut, but why put the cart before the horse? Tim

That is wayyyy cool man!!! Tim

Nope.

Bill, I am running 245/50 16s on the rear and have plenty of room between the tire and the strut (coilovers). I think that I could actually go another 1.5 inches wider rim to the inside. The outside is at it's limit though. Tim

Do yourself a favour and take someone along with you who has no stake in the purchase and LISTEN to their advice. Most times people (myself included) make purchase with their heart, not their head. If it's not what you want....Don't Buy It.....you will regret it in the end, especially if you're going to spend long hours and hard earned cash on a conversion. Get something that you won't have to chase with endless $$$$ just to get it to a decent starting point. my 3c worth. Tim

I have the Clubman seats and they JUST fit. Compare the dimensions, if they are any larger, I would measure VERY carefully. Tim

Could be one of a dozen things! Remember, an engine needs 1. compression 2. Spark, and 3. fuel to fire up. Since it's unlikely that the compression has all of a sudden disappeared, check to see if you're getting fuel and spark. Pull the aircleaner off and pump the linkage on the carb while looking down the barrels..see if fuel is squirting. Check if you are getting spark at the plugs. Check that the distributor is tight and hasn't moved. Other than that we would need more info on what your setup is. Tim

Thanks guys...that's what I thought. Tim

Anyone know if the LT1 PCM uses the oil pressure signal for anything, or is the sensor just for gauge signal. The FSM doesn't seem to have any details. I am assuming that it is just for the gauge since none of the PCM wires reference (according to FSM) the oil pressure signal. I broke mine taking it off and since I am running a mech. oil pressure gauge, can I assume that the OEM sensor does not need replacing? Thanks, Tim