Tim240z

I've also found that the Jag XJ6 (mid 80s) front caliper bolts right up to the Z. Using the 300ZX front rotor this is a complete bolt up conversion, but the rotors aren't a large enough diameter to fully take advantage of the full pad contact surface. I am currently looking into other rotors and will hopefully have a solution soon. Also, I have NOT run this configuration yet, so it is an untested conversion, but the 4 piston Jag calipers look like they will do a good job. Tim

One word: VIBRATION Tim

Nion, Try taking a wire directly from the battery + to the coil (make sure it is the correct terminal)on the distributer. make sure that the distributer is clearanced correctly at the inlet manifold and isn't binding in the cap. Also make sure the rotor is makinf connection with the tab in the cap. HTH Tim

Is that a LT1 firebird? Just unplug the MAF and let the computer default to MAP/revs. Tim

Brian, Most of the inexpensive strut inserts don't allow the use of lowered springs. I think the cheapest way to go is the Tokoko non-adj units which are around 45-50 bucks each. Tim

I think that maybe he needs mudflap extentions Tim

Yeah Pete...there's a car rental agency up here near LAX where you can rent a Marrinello, or a Z06, or Carrera 4, or a new Mini Cooper for the autocross!! Tim

Bill, Me thinks it's time to update the signature picture Tim

Damn, I wonder if I can get a refund? Tim

I would start from scratch again with all the settings. Get the #1 piston to TDC on compression. Check that the valve timing is correct (hasn't jumped the chain a tooth).Check your valve lash. With the piston at tdc, put a loose spark plug on #1 wire and switch the ignition on. Turn the distrib. back and forward until you see the plug firing. Lock down the dizzy at the point where the plug fires. Be sure the spark is nice and strong. This way you know your cam timing is right and your ign. timing will be at 0deg, enough that it should run ok. If it is still crappy, then it's most likely a fuel/air issue. HTH, Tim

Kevin, Please take this as a comment from the uneducated , but I would imagine that the aspect ratio of the tire would have a significant impact here. I would imagine that, although low profile tires are great for lateral traction, maybe not so much for accelleration traction. just food for thought. Tim

Also check the local papers/classifieds. I found mine (94 LT1 and T56) for 1400 bucks and got to hear the car run (i revved the hell out of it and didn't see even a hint of smoke anywhere). For that price I had to pull it myself (me and Dave), but I saw that as a bonus 'cause I could see where all the stuff went in the OEM setup. I got to take anything off the car that I wanted/needed, so I took everything that was connected to the engine.Tim

Dude, Welcome. I am not on my normal computer so I can't post all the links, but do a search on LT1 and you will find about half a dozen choices of vendors. Tim

HEI dizzys are a dime a dozen at the junk yards. Buy a used one and spend your money on an aftermarket module and coil. Also, when you put it in your engine, make sure you check the clearance. When I upgraded my truck's dizzy I had to shim it quite a bit because it was jamming the rotor into the cap. Tim

WTF WHY WHY WHY String him up by his nuts and teach him the error of his ways. What he did to a Corvette is criminal, and to a Z06 no less!! I'm the first to say "to each his own", but not this time. Tim

Marty, Just be careful with the price. Remember that you will need to add to the $3100: Water pump, electric fuel pump (mech won't work with JTR) starter Carb air cleaner flywheel/flexplate damper Alternator and the list goes on and on and on. Just keep the little things in mind because that is what kills you budget, not the big purchases. Do a search on posts by Grumpyvette's member number. He has posted links to good crate motors many times. (1367) Tim

Sheesh Grump, you REALLY like that new Holley Stealth Ram huh? hey, while I have your attention....any problems with replacing the stamped steel 1.5 rockers on my LT1 with 1.6 rollers (all else being equal)? Tim

Scott, I ended up using the .085" wall, but in any event, without getting into structural dynamics, all you have to do is look at how whimpy the OEM rails are. Anything would be better. As for the floors, I cut out from the bottom of the firewall all the way back to where it starts going up to the rear wheel well and welded in some 18 gauge sheetmetal which is SIGNIFICANTLY thicker than OEM. I had the car on a rotis. so I welded all the way around, top and bottom which I'm sure was completely overkill, but 'what the hell' why not. HTH, Tim

John et. al., I am making inquiries with my Dad to see if the guy who makes the exhaust system for his Camaro racing car (trans-am/nascar hybrid type racin oversees, would be willing to make up a set of 1 3/4 primary / 2 1/2 collector, equal length headers that will: 1. clear the sensors and spark plugs on the LT1, and 2: end just below the oil pan flange and 3: clear the steering / starter and all that Jazz. I am primarily after a set for my engine (LT1), but once he is done (if he agrees to do this. he is one of those exhaust artists who is REALLY picky about the work he agrees to do), I am sure we can get a run going for a batch. The work is A+++++++ and with the current exchange rate of about 10 to 1, the price should be attractive. The only problem for you would be if you are in a rush. I won't need my exhausts for a few weeks or so, so time is not that much of an issue. I will keep everyone posted. This mission, if he chooses to accept, will be awesome. Tim

Marty, My 2c here. Get another body. You will spend a serious amount of time chasing and repairing rust. See if you can find a good body to transfer all your stuff into. Trust me (and I'm sure others here will agree whole heartedly) start with a rust free body. As for engines, several people have swapped in teh LT1 V8 (which I too am busy with). Mine's from a Z28, but the Vette ones are essentially the same. There are even a couple of true adventurers who are swapping in the LS1, which is a whole different story because it shares very little with the older Gen 1 and Gen 2 SBC V8s. Mounting is a huge effort from what I can gather. Do a search on the questions you have and you will find a wealth of info on this forum on both of your questions. Also if you haven't already done so...buy the JTR swap manual from JagsThatRun.com. HTH. Tim

Man, If that thing runs as good as it looks, it's going to be demon!! The exhaust manifold came out very nicely...looks like many hours of elbow grease went into that motor. Kudos. Tim

Way cool man....you can never have enough tools!!! I always get a warm fuzzy feeling every time I buy a new tool, even if it's just a screwdriver! Tim

The tubing is ONE x 3, so that makes it 1 inch lower, which is pretty much the same as the stock oem one. I welded them to the bottom of the floorboards. Tim

I've searched and searched and can't find a place that sells OEM type electrical plugs, specifically I need to replace some of the plugs/connectors on my LT1 engine wiring harness. I remember seeing a place once, but for the life of me I can't find it. Any suggestions? Tim

Man O Man... I can't wait until my LT1 is on the road.....I'll show dem dang mustang boyz whats up...OOhhhh can't wait I tell you!! Tim