RB26powered74zcar

Have you considered using the water jacket access right below where your turbo hangs on the L6 block? There is a large square head type plug on the intake/ exhaust side of the block from the factory, that can be removed to give access to the blocks water jacket. I've seen guys use this.

She's watched me build a couple different motors during her 15 yrs of life.... I just wish I could have got her to catch on when I asked her to grab a wrench...

Cool Dood!! Where are the pics??

I've seen these advertised on eBay>> http://stores.ebay.com/Motorsport-Technology_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

I did the fuel cell thing on my early 74 260z rb26 swap. If I did another, I'd stick with the oem tank (baffled or not) and use the metal vapor tank, located on the rear pass side 1/4 panel. I had my vapor tank out and already modified with brazed on AN fittings, which would allow me to plumb the fuel from the oem tank, to the vapor tank, then from the vapor tank to the front of the car to the motor. You pretty much have everything you need already, to make a nice surge pot, that tucks away nicely. Just remove it, modify it with fittings, re install....

Nice piece, but I can't believe they put that fuggly molded name plate on the outside edge, in plain view on the part!!

I used one of these gas tank re new kits a few years ago when I had my oem tank,and I tell you, you can't beat this kit. It turned out nice and it even has a sealer for those tanks that may have small leaks. I recommend this product 100%!!

Great job Yasin.... looks dam good!!

What is that company's name again? so I can be sure to avoid buying from them.....

I agree.... those wheels look spectacular!!

Awesome stuff Kevin!! j.

Your one lucky dood..... glad you made it through this, and able to pass the lesson on to others.

Andy, I PM'd you for a favor on your site> http://rbz32.com/forums/index.php?sid=d8e34b1c02a30e02ed5040e5e355f897

Can you explain the procedure you used to get that result please??

Nice polishing job. If you are doing the polishing, what are you using? I still need to fix my CCW's I screwed up, via soda blasting....

This one works for me. I did have to re log in first though... I had been logged off for some time. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23919&highlight=dash+repair

Wow......... thats deep.

How about bump 7 months later....

lol.... you got me Tony.... . I forgot I don't have to deal with that oil pump drive gear, as I didn't use the distributor when I had my L6 motor... (TEC2 on board ) Its been so long since I've had to deal with the removal of that gear, I plumb forgot about it.

If you are using a L6 Z car motor, just remove the distributor and make yourself up a tool that looks like a flat head screw driver about 12" long that you can insert into the hole where the distributor goes into, and engage the oil pump drive key way. Spin it in reverse with a power drill and it will prime your oil galleys / motor.... I spin it till I see the oil pressure gauge rise. I hope my description of the home made drift tool with a flat tip makes sense to you.... lol. Good luck, it works!

I doubt there is anything wrong with your trans. It sounds like you no longer have a working clutch. Thats whats up with the car moving when you slam it into gear while running.... You said the clutch feels soft, well, common sense dictates its the clutch thats causing your problem... Try finding out where the fluid is leaking, and fix that, then bleed the system. Pretty sure that will take care of that.

First off, stop the slamming it into gears, or you will have a toasted trans. The problem to me sounds like your clutch needs to be adjusted, either by adjusting the rod on the slave (if it has the adj rod on the slave), or you may have air in the system, and need to bleed the clutch master cyl. What happened to cause this? Were you replacing something in the clutch system that could have caused this, or what? Is your clutch master cyl full of fluid? Please give more info....

I gotta disagree..... I learned from experience, the larger the drain return line, the better. To small and you'll have problems with oil not draining fast enough, and pushing out the front inlet and rear turbine. On your supply line, it depends on what type bearing it uses... duel ball bearing requires a small supply of oil (use of a restrictor), the non BB turbos need more oil for a good oil wedge to survive... I use -3 supply, -10 return, with restrictors in the cartridge on my Garrett BB turbos. Pressure is another issue....

I'm very impressed!!! That is one a$$ stompin Z car!!

Thanks for sharing those pics!! Would you happen to have any more, showing different angles?