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slownrusty

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Everything posted by slownrusty

  1. Gang - Looking to upgrade the turbo in my little Mazda 323 Turbo. A T25 is purrfect and I was hoping to buy something inexpensive but at the same time stay away from all the SS Autochrome eBay crap. Can you recommend a source, store? I left James Thagard a message as well today. Regards - Yasin
  2. That black one in Oregone is sweet and the price is very fair! LOVE that these cars are trickling into the US. Yasin
  3. Awww CRAP...a great free car AND friends...I have neither...somebody hug me.
  4. Trevor - Let me be the first to welcome you to HybridZ..the sweetspot on the internet for all things Z car and Performance...they go together like a hot body and a thong...a cold beer and summer day..you catch my drift. I have an identical car to you..'83 5Speed ZX Turbo Coupe and have travelled down the same road as you. The stock T3 turbo is plenty sufficient for your horsepower goals and so is that $300 Rebuilt 300ZX Z31 turbo. No need for an expen$ive hybrid, unless you get sick of the 250-300hp (and trust me you will), then I say go for the higher dollar hybrid. Stock downpipe will handle BIG hp..so need for any custom unit there. A good 3" aftermarket exhaust will be $400-$500. Piping that Porsche 944 turbo intercooler will be as easy $300-$400 and we recommend aluminum piping, of course in a pinch regular schedule steel (exhaust) pipe will also work. Check Web Cams they make a very nice (not too crazy) Turbo cam grind, for around $250. And I agree, go for it while your engine is apart! I am glad that you bought the ARP studs - great insurance and the OEM headgasket and the 944 intercooler are also good choices. My car had 250ish hp and I ran it at 11-12psi for about 3years and it was incredibly fun and a delight to drive! The car is transformed with just a few extra pounds of boost and 3" exhaust, let alone the other mods. I have had my car now for 6years and it get faster and more fun each year! I am now rebuilding the entire engine but when I dismantled it at almost 150K, the leakdown was less than 5% and the compression even on all 6 at 121psi +/-, these engines are very hearty just like Campbell's Chunky Soup. The only thing quicker is the rate at which money leaves my wallet. Welcome to the addiction. Yasin
  5. Wow..what a great story and man I am jealous....sweet car...! I cannot believe your fortune. That "ish" never happens to me. Yasin
  6. In Portugal...locked away and suddenly just discovered, I hope that slimy Craig Jackson does not get his paws on these. http://www.autoblog.nl/archive/2007/01/27/de-vergeten-snoepwinkel-voor-klassiekerlovers#post-8196 Yasin
  7. Glad you are fine....sad but like everyone stated you can get another car! Yasin
  8. Glad to help out brother! Brian thanks for the heads up...never thought about the FC RX7
  9. DJ Nexxus - Go to the Bamboo partnuh I saw a L20Turbo complete recently...complete...here is the one I saw, they told me it was sold though: BTW...If you need someone to host pics for you, I can do it on my website and link them for you. My email is slownrusty@yahoo.com Here is my old 720 pickup, I am glad you are building one, time to humble all those damn Evo 7s in TnT: I hope you get a ZX, as there are still a few nice ones running around. Yasin
  10. Sorry but I think that is a pretty ridiculous video. The YellowBird is 20+ old technology, its a 3.2L air cooled Porsche engine with two small KKK turbos. The 911 engine itself is 40+ year old. The CTR and BTR are still incredible by today standards but an EVO with an exhaust and a few extra pounds of boost will be quicker. The Veyron has 4 turbos, 16 cylinders and is an 8.0L Why didn't they show the Veyron against a K car? Yasin
  11. I went ahead and finally made my own three gauge pod for my 1983 280ZX Turbo. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason that you cannot adapt the same to your S30 car as the A-pillars are VERY close, actually a better fit to be honest in the S30 cars. Cost: Approx $100-$125 Time: Pretty much a full weekend (15ish hours). Difficulty: If I can do it you can too...and I am pretty stupid...! Some body work experience would be good but not really needed. Material needed: 1) Fiberglash mesh 2) Any type of bodywork Bondo Duraglas type product + Cream Hardener 3) 100Grit and 220Grit Sandpaper 4) A Drill and small-ish bit and 3-4 regular self tapping screws 5) A Dremel or hope you have an extremely steady surgeon's hand 6) Some plastic containers you can throw away to mix the Bondo up in 7) Tape 8) Patience!! Here goes: Order the Miata Gen 1 Gauge Pods ('90-'98), I ordered these from Summit Racing and as I wanted to do a three gauge pod, I bought a 2 pod and a single pod as nobody makes a three gauge pod for the Miata and blended them together to make a 3 pod. Autometer Part Numbers 20661 and 20660. I experimented with over $200+ of pods and everything from Miata to Fox Body Mustang to Evo to Z32 so I know what fits and what does not. Trust me the Miata is the closest. The A pillar on my ZXT is 64mm wide and the Miata is 67mm wide and flares out to 72mm - so right away you know some work is going to be required to make it work and make it look slick. I am trying to achieve a clean factory look with no ugly screws and mis-fitting bulgy pieces - something that Mr.K might be give me the thumbs up. Many people say heat and re-shape...but I am still boggled how that might work as plastic and heat can get ugly and these Autometer Gauge Pods are a high quality very stiff injection molded plastic that would take alot of heat to re-shape and consequently if you are not careful will distort easily them with too much heat. So I stayed away from this option. Here is what you need to buy (of if you already have this stuff, which you should if you own a Z...LOL!! - you are off to the races!): Remove your factory OEM A pillar trim and try not break it...I broke mine...UG...so more repair will be required when I am done. Measure twice and cut once!!! Run a piece of tape down the side of the pods to act as straight line and trim the 3-4mm you need to make the pod actually match the width of your OEM A pillar trim. I used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel and it sliced through that plastic like a hot knife in butter: Place the pods on your factory A pillar trim how you want them and drill some small holes and use 3-4 self tapping screws to keep them secure in place for the fiberglass Bondo stage. Also this will give you an idea of how much gap you will need to fill: Notice the light between the pod and the pillar!: Trimmed and fastened down (yes I like power tools...LOL!): Mix up your Bondo / Fiberglass concoction of choice. I started with a VERY strong metalicized Bondo product and use the Fiberglass mesh under it to bond this body filler to the pods and the A-pillar trim and also to give strength and bridge to gap caused by the wider pod. The first application looks like $a$$ but not worry it gets better as you sand it down and apply thinner and thinner lifts as you get down to the final stages. Here is the first ugly lift (and my new front mount IC as a table top!) And underneath, you can where my A pillar broke when I tried to carefully remove it! You can also see the fiberglass mesh...this is the key ingredient in this process, without this mesh the Bondo or what ever you use will crack and fall out in time...if anyone has ever done concrete work you will know what I mean: Sand...sand sand sand sand (dust mask recommended) and a few more lifts later - looking better: I then finished off the last few thin layers lifts with Duraglass..which incidently is a product I love to use: I used a Magic Marker to mark any surface irregularities, highlow spots or voids and then filled and sanded accordingly: Then done....!! Autometer take note! I will mount it in the car this weekend coming with more pics (so look for that post). I primed it in these two pics and the paint was still wet so could not mount it. I am going to wet sand it and then spary paint it the same color as my interior (red) to match and use Krylon Plastic Spray Paint. Not bad... Completed, color matched and gauges fitted: I hope that helps anyone attempting something like this. My Best - Yasin
  12. Justin - Is James Thagard still making his custom intakes? I believe for off the shelf that I know of and if time is a consideration, then Lonewolf is the way to go? Yasin
  13. This is what you need if your ECU is not communicating with your LM1: Yasin
  14. Beautiful workmanship. Having done a grip of bodywork over the years I can understand and appreciate the time you took to make this right! If I was not such a chicken, I would do the same to my ZX as I would love a simple but yet classy rear spoiler. Yasin
  15. Stunning...two thumbs and two big toes up! Yasin
  16. Wow...even the packaging is identical to TiAL's packaging, right down to how the foam is cut...very eerie! $55 for a BOV...thats how much I pay for 2-3 Earls fittings...sounds way too good to be true? I would question the longevity and the reliability and when it comes to turbo motors (especially your RB) Russian Roulette is a bad game to play. Yasin
  17. Pretty sure like everyone says that is a L20ET mainfold...off something like this: or even this: Here is an actual L20ET I recently photographed: Yasin
  18. I was in the original SFP group header buy, and mine has fit very well. I have further added extra supports for it - just in case. That Greddy header is simply beautiful and delicious. How does an external WG hook-up to it? Your $800 price is extremely fair. If Justin 280ZForce does not buy it, I will happily give you the $800 for it. Regards - Yasin
  19. Sounds like piles of rust like you say....maybe a few good interior parts at best and a the motors might be OK...but probably L24. Canada's weather and old Datsuns were never friends. BTW - I went to high school in Hamilton and attended the University of Waterloo! Yasin
  20. Guys - LOL...yes a year old thread...I have decided against this particular and if I do at some point decide on a 928 it will have to be a 1987 or later S4 model...I do not need a money pit right now. This one was full of mechanical and electrical problems and I could never get it to run right, plus the owner was having a tought time getting a Title for it from the DOT, as it was brought into the US from Germany 10+ years ago and sat in his garage unregistered. Here are pics of that particular car your viewing pleasure: RARE white leather: 300hp Euro Engine (S2): Yasin
  21. Scotty - Glad to hear you are back and hope your women troubles are past you....I think we all have that troubling chapter in our lives! Looking forward to updates on your car. Yasin
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