JSM

Thanks ab0Z, anyone else? Fit asside, performance gain or decrease using the N42?

Ah nice, it looks good either way. How did you cut the intake manifold so straight?

I'm not knocking your welding skills at all and the intake looks very nice, but how would you rate yourself as a welder to accomplish something like this? I'd love to start something like this if I could weld better. It really is like art.

I was curious if anyone has used or modified an N42 NA exhaust manifold to use as a Turbo manifold. One like this: My thinking is this would make the turbo sit lower, straighten out the down pipe, get the turbine heat farther from the intake and maybe a bit better in performance? Concerns turbo oil return, performance and fit. Thoughts?

My thinking is before you start the car the system primes enough to get pressure to the injectors. Once running the demand is to high to keep running and starves for fuel. You checked all your AFM boots for vacuum leaks and cracks? What about other vacuum leaks?

Are you sure the FP is staying at 20 PSI? Is there the posibility that there isn't enough presure, thus dying out? How do your plugs look? Once it dies will it start back up right away? How long does it take to repeat the scenario? If not do you still have spark?

Copied from: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ ENGINE CASTING CODE L24 (1970 240Z)# E31 (flattop pistons) L24 ('71-73 240Z) # P30 (flattop pistons) L26 ('74 260Z)# P30 (flattop pistons) L28 ('75-80 280Z)# N42 (dished pistons) L28 ('81-83 280ZX)# F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders)

Very nice Phil. Thanks Paul for the advice on the intake. Something to consider when I start my project.

Is this a good price and a good unit in general for automotive purposes? this is a 220volt machine it has very low hours use and is in excellent condition comes with small gas tank a correct 25ft extension cord an autodark helmet some extra tips and the instruction book can demo prior to purchase reason for selling is declining eyesight due to diabetes and i cant see well enough to weld anymore $650 cash when picked up no trades or layaway plans http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/614831148.html

On a side note the $100 sandblasting cabinet from Harbor Freight leaks like crazy first day out of the box. I wear a mask using it also.

If they are so stout why would they need replacing that often?

Nope, not that one.

Is there a particular VIN to look for or an easy way to tell?

Hmmmm.... this one didn't sell for $6600, but has much less miles then the one i'm looking at 150K. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-Turbo-300ZX-SHIRO-EDITION-GREAT-65K-1-OF-1500-MADE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6398QQihZ002QQitemZ120231207828QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I'm looking at a shiro for $2500 that is suppossed to be very clean. Ebay had none that were sold so it was hard to judge value. A/C doesn't work and powersteering belt is disconnected. Curious to what others felt the long term ownership of one these cars may be for an investment? From Wiki: In 1988, the turbocharged Shiro Special debuted with pearl white paint, stiffer springs and matched shocks, heavy-duty anti-sway bars, a unique front air dam, paint matched wheels, Recaro seats, and a viscous, limited-slip differential. No other options were available for the Shiro, meaning all Shiros were identical. It was the fastest car out of Japan, capable of 153 mph (246 km/h) speeds, as tested by Motor Trend with the electronic speed limiter disabled.[2] A total of 1002 Shiro Special Z31s were produced between January and March of 1988.[

I think focusing on the electronics would be the most important. This seems to be the most challenging for most.

Is that a definite Scottie? What time you going to get there and leave?

I'm going with 401. Good luck!

Joel, I've seen people get screwed with that too. Especially if it's over 45 days. Paypal doesn't care. They will just take whatever money is in the account and hit you w/ a negative balance.

Every once and awhile I can actually help. Normally, I suck at diagnosing electrical problems, at least my own

Welcome. If you ever are in Orlando hit me up. I'll show you around if you want.

If you've got the skills to fix it then no biggie. If not, sell it, you'll spend a fortune paying someone else to fix all that.

LOL! That was great!

He had the main power supply of the harness connected to the bottom pole of the starter solenoid. Once he moved it up to be tied along w/the constant power from the battery everything worked. I'm thinking the PO put the wire on wrong. It happens. I'm just glad it was that simple.

I'd think you would want to bump your PSI in the tires up a little too or check them at a minimum to ensure they don't accidentally break bead.