m1ghtymaxXx

I'm tackling an audio install in my 77, and the last remaining issue is how to go about adding speakers to the front of the cabin. I saw a member was making quality fiberglass door panels with speaker provisions, however it requires finishing them and converting to power windows, a complexity I prefer to avoid. As much as it pains me, I plan on cutting the doors and panels to mount 5.25" coax speakers, but I was hoping to hear from people who have done it. My main concern is the door isn't flat in the location where I intend to mount the speaker, so I was wondering what others have done to avoid distorting the speaker when it's screwed down. Also how did you go about running wires to the doors? Here's a few pics for reference: Doesn't look like the window crank can turn This car has a power window conversion Install in a 240Z I've already built a fiberglass false floor woofer enclosure, and will run a Retrosound Model 2 head unit (user reviews would be appreciated as well)

^ I would concur. Doesn't really look like contamination or bad prep, but too much stick-out and you can get more popcorn sound than a sizzle as the torch lobs globs of filler. I would turn up the wire speed a bit too, and pause briefly at the start of the bead.

The original stuff would be single stage enamel, no clear coat. I repainted my fenders with the original paint code and cut and polished the original Persimmon Red on my 77 and the match was pretty much perfect.

How did I not notice that?

By the looks of it, the Accuair kits are standard coilovers that replace the coil spring with an airbag, so converting the S chassis parts to fit your ZX would be the same process as this writeup I did years ago: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/ If I'm not mistaken, the S14 fronts should be the same as S13, but the S14 rears are longer than S13, and if I recall correct, use larger diameter bolt at the bottom (solved with a bushing/sleeve). Don't take my work for it though.

Thanks, I'v looked at that diagram before and it makes it look relatively simple, the main issue is identifying which nipple is which on the vacuum selector valve, does anyone have any input? Taking the dash out to repair cracks is on the to-do list. Maybe I should get on that and take the opportunity to thoroughly go over the heating system. Also, does anyone know what the "magnetic valve - vacuum source" does? Any reason it couldn't be bypassed?

Thanks! That looks like it could be the ticket, though I'll start with a generic valve. Apparently my understanding of automotive HVAC is quite flawed. I assumed the heater temperature was controlled by mixing air off the core with fresh outside air. I take then it's based on water flow to the heater core?

I've been struggling with the heater in my 77. The first 2 years I owned it I periodically replaced vacuum lines as they cracked. I've now replaced all the lines under the hood, yet my heater still doesn't work (same symptoms as cracked vacuum lines). My car has AC but I have no need for it (belt removed currently, eventually I'll ditch the rest of the system). I have no reason to turn on my blower for any reason except wanting heat, and I could live with it just blowing through the defrost, which it doesn't do without vacuum it seems. Could I simply bypass the valve altogether to gain reliable heat?

Suspension Techniques also includes new brackets with their bars. Perhaps contact them and see if they would sell them separately?

Just a thought, even the usual items (air dam, bumpers, spoiler, flares) for the most part are questionable quality. Surely many (myself included) would be thrilled about having a source who actually cares about the fitment of their parts rather than farming the work out. A finish quality carbon fiber 280Z vented hood would be cool too. Carbon intake plenum or surge tank?

Awesome thread! Any plans to make exterior parts Andy?

My stock-engined 77 is much more reliable than my 2004 Honda Element winter beater. Well at least when things brake it's generally a quick and easy fix, but I'm sure there's much more unreliable modern cars than my Honda.

Just another random tip for cutting aluminum, particularly thinner walled stuff like you would use for charge piping. Cut it in a chop saw with a regular wood blade. It makes a quick and extremely clean cut. Also if you have a laser guide, I found cutting angles out of mandrel bends to be very simple. Set the saw to the desired angle, slip and wide ziptie or narrow metal hose clamp onto the bend and tighten it until it's snug but you can still slide it around. Set the pipe/bend in the saw (need a few inches of straight to keep it aligned) and shimmy back and forth while sliding the clamp until it's aligned with the laser. Mark your cut with a sharpie, remove the clamp and cut away.

With your budget I'm guessing you're not looking for an AC machine for aluminum? I'm in the market for an AC/DC TIG and have settled on an Everlast 200DX (probably order at Christmas). It's a Chinese machine but with vendors in Canada and the US and retails for $1300 Canadian but matches a $4000 Miller Dynasty in features. I haven't heard a single negative review aside from the included torch (stiff leads) and pedal (just flimsy). It's enough to get started, but should be upgraded down the road, though many seem to have the same to say about the included Miller gear. Parts availability and customer support doesn't seem to be an issue. They do have a budget DC machine that should be on your price range.

That time of year again!

Surely wider tires have some effect too. I noticed a pretty drastic difference on my S130 going from 195 to 225s, and even a noticeable increase in tramlining going from 205 to 225s in my S30. I've never had the ability to properly adjust caster on either.

Anyone know what dog box it may have? Didn't look to be a sequential shifter, guessing it's a replacement gear set in a stock case? Any idea who would make such a thing?

I have Hawk HP+ and can't really complain about performance. My biggest issue is mainly because of my Wilwood 1" master cylinder combined with stock caliper and drum brakes. The pedal is quite firm with little movement making it very difficult to modulate the brakes at the threshold with higher friction pads, particularly with autocross slicks. Now that I've swapped to to BFG Rivals I don't find it so bad, but I've also had 2 years now to learn. My biggest complaint (keeping in mind that it's a street & autocross car) is the sound. If there's a pad with similar friction and heat resistance properties but less noise and dust I would be all over it if it doesn't brake the bank.

Completely unrelated, but nice Weimeraner CarolinaTZ. Got a blue one myself.

Do you still have the stock bumpers and seats? I've got cheap racing seats in my 77 (forgot to weight them, also reinforced the frames for rigidity/safety) and am doing fiberglass bumpers, though reinforcing them with square to retain some of their function as bumpers. Hoping that should help shed decent bit of weight.

Pointless thread is pointless or did I miss the point?

Is the goal aerodynamics or aesthetics?

There was a CAD drawing floating around this site for an S30 main hoop. Not even sure where to begin looking for it, hopefully someone else can locate it as I could use it myself!

An LSD consists of a whole new carrier, so yes, it replaces the spider gears and their associated weak link. I've been running the OBX LSD for 2 years now, no issues whatsoever. I can't comment on it for a drag racing application, but given it replaces the achilles heel of the R200, I can't imagine it being a downgrade in strength. I also have a pile of broken thread taps telling me the case material is very hard. Unless you're equipped to shim the diff, budget closer to $600 for the install. I paid $30 for a hardware upgrade from RBryant (this should be mandatory, and his installation advice along is worth the money) and $150 for a local drivetrain shop to shim the diff and check the wipe pattern.

S30s seem to be a music video favorite. Here's a few off the top of my head: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcmKbTR--iA#t=119