m1ghtymaxXx

The amount of cutting and welding remains essentially the same, one weld around the circumference of the struct housing and either cutting the spring perch off or cutting through the strut housing. I'm not sure what sort of ride height you can get out of the stock unmodified strut housing before running out of damper travel, obviously sectioning the strut is getting much more involved. Adapting a coilover like Megan or BC will allow for a large range of ride height adjustment as you can adjust the body length independent of the spring height (which preloads the damper). An added benefit is you get camber plates out of the box. The biggest benefit to welding on your own sleeves is the ability to run a higher quality damper and springs. To the OP; what are your goals for your suspension? Aesthetics? performance?

With regards to using S13 uprights, here's the most informative thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/76341-s13-coilovers-s130-chassis/?&p=726579&hl=mack&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=726579 And another member did it, but little info and the ball joint looks sketchy: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/76341-s13-coilovers-s130-chassis/?&p=726579&hl=mack&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=726579

I think I only drove on them for 2 years before I retired the car due rust. I wouldn't say there's any safety issue. I had the sleeves turned down to be a tight fit over the strut tubes and they were welded all around with rosette welds lover down on the tube. I actually encountered a worst case scenario racing the Targa Newfoundland rally in an AE86 Corolla which has an IDENTICAL front end setup to the S130, and this particular one even had Megan coilovers installed just like I did on the ZX. We came through a square left turn way too hot and understeered into a curb and up over someone's lawn (narrowly missing a porch full of spectators). In true rally fashion we slammed it into reverse and finished the stage (thankfully the last of the day) and drove through town to the evening service spot, oblivious anything was wrong until another driver pointed out one wheel had a fair bit more camber than the other. I looked under the car to find the weld holding the tube to the spindle had failed. Fortunately the nature of this setup allows for some redundancy in that the weight of the car is holding everything together (not to imply it's safe to drive with a poor or failed weld, but we were in just about the only situation where you would drive away from an incident like that without first inspecting the car). As soon as I unbolted the steering arm from the bottom of the strut the spindle literally fell out. The pieces were professional tigged at a fairly reputable shop, but it was clear there was zero penetration into the cast spindle. On it's own, there wasn't any evidence that it had even been welded. We found a shop that opened up late to let us use their big industrial Miller MIG. Not knowing how to set up the machine, I set it at full amperage and wire speed, heated up the spindle till it was glowing and welded it back together. It wasn't the prettiest, but it handled one of the more mechanically punishing stages the next day:

Our cars did have them from the factory, however after 36+ years the plastic becomes very brittle and chances are all the attachment points have broken off. Most don't seem to have any issue running without them (I removed mine about a year ago after rolling the fenders, though simply removing them cracked them to the point of being unusable). With that said, there's certainly no harm in making a replacement, and if you do, be sure to post it!

Looks great! Happen to have any close-ups of your muffler/tailpipe setup?

Their roll cages seem suspiciously cheap. I'm curious to know if whether or not they're too good to be true.

Here's my Megan racing coilover install on a 280ZX from waaay back: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/ I think the simplest and cheapest way is to do it as I've done it. Since my 280ZX is no longer, those coilovers are up for sale if you'd like a ready-to-go bolt in solution. I seem to recall another member using the S13 front spindles which would allow for any S13 big brake and 5 bolt conversion options. It's more involved as the control arm has to be modified to accept a different balljoint (I seem to recall a Maxima balljoint being used), and I can't recall how the TC rods were adapted.

No, but you'd have slightly less thread engagement for no reason.

I'm not well versed in Megasquirt, or any EMS for that matter, but the Megasquirt unit actually has a built in MAP sensor good to around 20 psi of boost IIRC.

Unfortunately your pic isn't working, and I'm dying to see it. My game plan for the woofer enclosure (sealed) is as follows: - Build up the spare tire well with Plastidip so to ensure the enclosure ends up slightly smaller than the spare tire well - Cover plastidip in foil and masking tap as smooth as possible to prevent Plastidip from being dissolved by the resin, apply release agent - Create a fiberglass mold of the vertical walls of the spare well and extend to perimeter of flat section - Cut a top piece for the box from MDF, cut hole for woofer (I have a 10" Infinity kicking around, but I may have to source something shallower) - Flip the fiberglass spare tire well mold upside down onto the MDF and create a mating flange where the fiberglass can be fastened to the MDF - Put the fiberglass piece back in the spare tire well and finish fiberglassing the center section. Drill a hole over the spare tire tie-down thread to allow box to be bolted down using the same thread. - Join MDF top to fiberglass "bowl", install woofer, install some sort of sound insulation in small void left by Plastidip in the first step (strips of rubber tape or even another coat of Plastidip) - Rock out - Find a full size spare for road trips. Edit: Posting from work, hence the pic not showing, just checked it on my phone and it looks Great! How did you enclose it on the inside? Looks like you used a low profile woofer? I was hoping to have it contained beneath the factory false floor and be completely hidden. Perhaps cut out a new floor and add some vent holes about the speaker, but I don't think that should be an issue.

Nice work. I figured I'd try and tackle some audio work this summer, last summer I built an exhaust so I happy to just listen to that but I'm afraid the thrill might wear off. My plan was to start with a false floor woofer enclosure in the spare tire well, stock size rear quarter speakers and I'm debating between running a head unit or just an aux cord and preamp into an amplifier (no need to listen to the radio). The fiberglass door panels in the group buy forum look great, but I wasn't keen on the necessary power window conversion. I wouldn't have noticed you shortened the window crank if you didn't say anything. Nice job! No interference issues with the window hardware?

^Did you just cut out the stock doors/panels for the speakers?

I could have sworn the the slot spacing was standardized for most camber plates but was having trouble backing that claim, mostly because I'm not certain on the terminology. The best info I found was actually on Megan's site; http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs.asp?id=135&subject=CDK:%20%20Pillow%20Ball%20Mount%20Information For clarity I'll call the piece in question a "pillow ball mount", and I would have sworn such a thing would be easy to find on it's own, but a google search is proving otherwise. Anyways, Megan states that all but 7 applications use the same piece which has a slot spacing of 1.75". I wonder what the various S30 weld in camber plates use? I have a contact at ground control I was just speaking with earlier, he should be able to shed some light, but I imagine finding a supplier for 'universal' pillow ball mounts wouldn't be terribly difficult. If you don't plan to produce such a thing, would you mind if I copied your concept? I figure I could draft something up to be cut from steel or aluminum plate, or buy a set of large camber plates for another application and have them cut and drilled similar to yours. I love your idea of just drilling new holes for the mounting bolts as a template can be made that uses the stock 3 hole pattern to locate the rest, which seems more foolproof than trying to line up the weld in plates. As well, the mounting holes in the camber plate could be slotted front to back for caster adjustment if there's room for it to slide under the strut tower.

Looks great! another member took a similar approach in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/53985-my-free-widebody-project/ What's with all these awesome body modifications coming out of Scandinavia lately?

I'm REALLY liking the design of those camber plates. So rather than use the stock 3 hole strut mount pattern, you drill a larger pattern and cut larger circle within it? Seems like a nice happy medium between GC bolt in plates and full weld in plates. If you offered them separately I would definitely be interested! Any chance of this happening?

The fabrication work on the cage looks like it's well executed, however in addition to Jon's comment, I see some other design flaws. To the best of my knowledge the crumple zone's should not be reinforced as they are critical to dissipating energy in a collision. Even more trouble is that the bottom of the rear stays tie into the bars connecting the rear strut towers to the rear of the car. It seems to me that if the car were to be hit from the rear, rollover protection could be instantly compromised. I have seen rally cars built with some reinforcement at the front to preserve the unibody in colision and allow the car to keep competing, but that still carries the same safety issues. Also what is the purpose of the loops of bar stock welded to the harness bar? Surely those aren't meant to be the harness mounting points... Edit: Jon, just looking the NASA (rally) roll structures spec, it seems that configuration should be allowed. Unless I'm looking at the photos wrong, it looks to match configuration mrc-4 in diagram 2.1: http://www.nasarallysport.com/rules-forms/2012-NASA-Rally-Sport-GRR-Appendix-B.pdf I seem to recall FIA allowing the same layouts, haven't looked into SCCA As well, by that spec the structure can extend beyond the front and rear strut towers, justified as a measure to protect a fuel cell, but I've always seen such a thing done as a standalone structure. I'd would be very hesitant to use such a structure as a foundation for the rear stays, especially where it makes a ~60 degree bend right before the footplate.

I don't know how you could bare to flip something like that, I know I'd have a hard time parting with it. Grassroots Motorsports magazine has daily driver Porshe 930 (non turbo) they've been reporting on. The did an article on an engine rebuild and how to minimize costs. Don't quote me, but I think they were into their engine rebuild for around 5K doing as much labour as the could themselves.

This is the standard 280Z mounting location, but if you order the ST 240Z bars, it comes with replacement drop links with ears to mount it behind the diff, which IMO is a better spot.

Looks like 280ZX 6 spoke wheels too!

Meth on a naturally aspirated carbed motor? Not seeing the point. It essentially raises the octane value on the fuel mixture and cools it through evaporation when sprayed further up the intake tract (intercooler pipes, not applicable). It's generally triggered by a pressure switch or MAP sensor, again useless without boost. Perhaps it could be triggered by throttle position or RPM, but I don't see any benefit to your setup except perhaps a marginal power gain through advanced timing, and it keeps your combustion chamber sparkly from the constant steam cleaning. I've never heard of corrosion being a problem, most engines have aluminum throttle bodies, intake manifolds and intake ports in contact with the water/methanol mixture. Unless you failed to mention this is a draw through or blow through setup, you're best spending your dollars elsewhere.

Uh oh...do you mind elaborating? I see them listed on a few sites but haven't yet inquired.

More scattered around here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/

Can anyone comment on the durability of stock flattop pistons? I've heard they're quite prone to break ringlands under boost. I have an F54/P90 Turbo motor, a F54/P79 N/A motor, a N42. My goal is a responsive motor with a decent low end more than a peaky higher horsepower motor, suitable for autocross. 300HP sounds like a reasonable goal, but that may well change once I've achieved. Anyways I was thinking about mating the P90 to the flattop F54, but I'd like to know if I can expect the pistons play nice in such a build.

Looks good! I plan on a respray in Porsche 997 Signal Orange, single stage for the same reasons you mention (I take a ferry to autocross and door dings are inevitable This looks like a slightly more vibrant alternative.