fastzcars

You'll need the companion fladges from the 280zxt. These will bolt to the 25 spline 240z short stub axels that the wheels bolt on to. If by chance the stub axels got replaced by any of the previuos owners to the 27 spline stubs, you'll need adapters made bt Ross.

Ah, you guys know that the original post is 4 months old?

Mycarispurty, those wheels will fit great in a Z. you'll need 1/2inch spacers in the front ans none in the rear to get them to fit perfect. Here is a picture of my car with 17x7 front and 17x8's in the rear. The backspacing is 4 in front and 5 in the rear. I did have to roll the rear fenders to get the tires to not rub. the fronts are stock( no fender rolling needed). As you can see they fit pretty flush to the body. I hope that helps.

So Makken, are you asking weither the R230 will "Bolt in" to you 240z? The short answer is no. BUT we have guys here that did install them in their 240z's with fabricated mounts and modified axels/cv's. Do a search on R230 and you'll get a ton of answers.

Yes ,that is why my math came out different than yours. The advertised rim width is measured from the inside mounting flandge, NOT the outside. Although when you talk about backspace and offset distances you do measure to the outside lip. As far as total physical rim width is conserned, it all depend's on the wheels contruction and material used. For example, forged wheels are usually thinner than cast wheels because the forging process squeezes the aluminum thus making a thinner, lighter, stronger wheel, the pores of the material is literally squeezed out. As compared to cast which the aluminum is poured into a sand mold, and the rim has to be thicker to compensate/add strength to the wheel. Look at the top of this section and read "wheel/tire questions" stickey that grumvette posted and you'll start to understand the terms and how the meassure out wheels.

Try this sight that grumpyvette posted.http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace. According to my math the 7.5 in rim has a backspace of 5 inches and the 8.5 rim has 5.5 inches.

Here you go pimp1911http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#diff

Are you looking for thishttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-T3-T4-Turbo-Headers-Camaro-Firebird-SB-Chevy_W0QQitemZ8044240898QQcategoryZ33631QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem . I hate leaving a post unanswered.

You got a point. It's too bad I already have Kuhmo v700's tires in 17 inch's.

FYI guys, I just weighed my centerline corona's tonight 17x7 were 20.9 lbs. and 17x8 are 21.4 lbs. They arn't as heavy as I thought they were. I was looking at some Team Dynamic's wheels for autocrossing/track use, and they are 9 kilograms (19.5 lbs) for their 17x8 Pro Race 1 wheels.

This would be a great way to keep the site going, Thanks Mat for all the footwork you doing.

Try this site . It has some great info on how to tune a holleyhttp://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm.

Here's another way using z31 partshttp://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82357

Good goin. very good idea.It's the sharing of ideas like this that make Hybridz the best website. Thanks for posting the pictures:icon14:

I wouldn't think that you had air in the line. My feeling is that you probably need a different pad in front. I didn't like the wilwood pads on my car. They squeeled like pigs. So I tried the EBC green pads. They are for the street and can take some track use and I like them much better than the wilwood's.

Here's a link to Johns Cars AKA BrokenKitty. The kit that Phantom's car was the prototype for. It states that you use a 98 CAMERO drivetrain. Your right Dalemax, any drivetrain can be installed, but would it be cost effective and easy to install? Take my advise, unless you have a huge budget or your a machinest/fabricator/engineer, I would not attempt to do a FULL drivetrain/suspension swap. Just my 2 cents.http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

It sounds like timing to me. Try what AK-Z suggested, advance the dist just enough to smooth out the idle, then back off on the throtle stop on the carbs to get the idle speed back down. Did you reove the distributer? You might be of a tooth.

All I can say is that vette trany won't fit, it's built-in with the rear diff on those car's. You'll have to get a F-body(camero) trans. Do a search you'll find a TON of info. Oh ya , Welcome to Hybridz. The first picture is a t56 from a f-body the second from a corvette.

NICE.

I love the way my car came out. It's not a BMW or a caddy. So I take as that. Believe me it was frustrating finding all the issues, but in the end I could say "I built it with my own two hands" . Ther'es just no feeling like it. :mrgreen:

It's been awhile since I did the install, but I seem to recall that I spent $1200. Bartman how's your install going? My ofter still stands on charging up your system once you get it goin . O.K?:mrgreen:Oh I forgot the March Bracket. add $350 so total $1550.

I'll give is a shot. For 1. double layer the brown bread on the firewall and the trans tunnel as well as the area around the muffler. That will help for the heat/sound. Then 2. used the GM factory rubber motor/trans mounts. As far as feeling as everything is coming apart, you have to realize that the cars are 30 years old nuts and bolts holding panels in place are probably loose. So basicly you have to tighten down EVERY nut and bolt you can lay your hands on. Squeeks and rattles drive me nuts so I know what you mean, I took apart every panel and tightend eveything down. Now as far a driveshaft angles Pete Pparaska has a great website explaining this.http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/ And finally 3. Changing the seals helps, but you have to make sure that the panels are straight and actually sealing against it's intended part. For example I replace my rear hatch seal for I had a massive water leak. I replaced the seal and found that it still leaked ,so I smeared some white grease on the mating surface of the hatch/seal and found a large area that wasn't sealing. I found that the ridge that the seal was on was deformed and I had to hammer and dolly that ridge up. Again you have to be maticulous when you install the seals. Another source of gas smell is the small vapor tank hidden in the rear passenger side hatch panel. It has several hoses that from age are most likely age cracked. I removed that tank and all the hoses and sealed the holes that are left on the floor of the hatch area, which reminds me that there are a couple of large access holes for the mustash mounting bolts that go through the rear floor that you have to cover up, exhaust fumes can enter from ther as well. I can go on and on, but I'll let other's here chime in.

Damn that really sucks.You could install some tubular side step bumpers. I helped my brother install a pair on his ford expedition. They stick out about 7 inchs , and are right at mid tires hight.

Your probably right about the price, but you can't get a superkart street legel.