fastzcars

I just picked up the current issue of Hod Rod and they had a bad ass 65 mustang with a 2003 cobra chassis! I mean the WHOLE chassis. Here's the link to the builder's site. http://www.sn65.com/SN65%20chronological%20order%20new.htm. Boy , I thought I took alot of pictures, these guys took ALOT for documentation. What do you guys think?

Yap thats the way it works. You probably have a bad rad cap, letting air into the system.

Maybe you can use this bellhousing? With a Mcloud hydrolic throwout bearing.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D15005&N=4294925134+4294822099+4294908395+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

What IS allowed in SP class? I was wondering because I'm looking for a daily driver, now that my truck blew up!

O.k. back to exotic motor sounds, how about a porche GT?http://videos.streetfire.net/category/Porsche/2/ff5a62c2-8bd1-4740-bd4c-03eba7c82136.htm.

I don't mean to steal this thread , but I still get goose bumps when I hear this Z06, You can just feel the high compression of that motor! http://videos.streetfire.net/search/z06/9/CDD25771-FFE9-445D-8664-DACB2ED3C957.htm.

I kinda knew it would take them that long. They get SO many projects going on at the same time, they juggle quite a few of them at the same time. They do Foose/Boyde type work. In last years photos they were still doing the fab work and the body was just media blasted. Then it was at the body shop for over 4 months:-| . Now that the fab work is complete, all they have to do now is to assemble and the pace will pickup. I'll get more pix when it's a driver, before it go's back to paint jail, again. Here's 2 pix of a 55 chevy they did.

SWEEEEEEEET Bartman:mrgreen: Boy you sure did put in a bigger cam! Love the sound!

Oh NO that's not my car. I know the builder/shop that's doing the swap. They called me up to get some info on the rear end suggestions. I've been keeping tabs on this car evr since they got the car in. They said tthe car finally came back from the body shop with allthe body work finished and the jambs and underside painted a VERY dark green, it almost looks black. Pretty neat color. All the fab work is pretty much completed. they're putting it back together. When it's a roller it's going back for the final paint. The shop does all the fab work from scratch. They are very good at what they do. Here are more pix.

Ok guys I just got home, here you go.

I told you this is just a teaser, I've got much more and better pix, but i'm at work and they monitor here. I'll post more detailed pix tonight!!! :mrgreen:

Sorry, I had to teaze alittle, here's some updated pix, I'll get detail's later.

I have to admit that I didn't like the boxy car's of the 70's 80's and 90's not until the current models come out did I start liking the body lines. But that 1800 of your's is in pretty good shape, and it's got some really nice lines. Keep us posted on your progress(plenty of pix) O.K.

No you don't. All right!!!!:icon14:Go rip up some assphault!! edit: here's a page from com cams website. Read tip number #3.http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1547594168.

Ya, there are both type's, Hydrolic ROLLER and Hydrolic FLAT tappet lifters. Do you have the lifters in the first picture or the second picture? If you have one's in the second pic, then yes, you do need to break them in.

Quote by Bartman: I thought that the LT1's have hydrolic roller cams, they don't need to be broken in as compared to flat tappet cams? Or did you change to flat tappet?

That's one of the reason's I installed all mechanical gauges in my dash. Nice to hear that you got the car going Bartman. As soon as I get my car back I'll be contacting a couple of guys in So Cal to go to Irwindale!

I think that body/front end treatment would look better on a G35 coupe! Man I love those G35's.

Great pix 78zlt1:mrgreen: I wish I was PC savy enough to add text to my pictures. Good going.

zspeed280, I can't compare how the rack feels because I've never driven a miata to compare it to, but I can say that the miata rack in the Z made it quite responsive. It only took 2.5 turns from lock to lock. I'll give you an expample, went I took my car to last years MSA's autocross in fontana, I could keep my hands at 10 and 3 o'clock on the steering wheel to go around the whole course without repositioning my hands. Even John Williams, a local instructor who's been in autocross a quite few years, commented that it was way more responsive than a stock Z. But one thing you have to keep in mind that the design differences between the cars, the way the rack is mounted, how much compliance the mounts and the steering joints have, the size and grippiness of the tires, the size and stiffness of the steering wheel, all have an effect on how the steering feels. Because each car is different, you have to ask this question, "Would I install a P/S unit in a SR20det engine Z?" probably not, the engine is so far back that most of the weight is off the front axle, making the stock rack quite suffecient. Would I install one in a SBC Z with a/c? I sure would. Would I install honda S2000 rack? sure I would, if "I" needed it. All I can say is GO for it. And make sure you take plenty of pictures. :-D

Zspeed280, I can't answer how the subi rack feels like because my car is still in the body shop. But I can answer how the Miata rack feels, it was VERY responsive on the freeway. I guess the best reason was for parking manuvers. Add the wide sticky tires, the smaller 13 inch momo steering wheel and the car became a bear to park. Add a bad elbow to the mix and I NEEDED to have power steering. Now, each one of us are different and what is difficult for me may not be for someone else. You have to drive your car completed and test drive it before you decide if P/S is what you want. I hope that answers your question.

Thanks Woj, I was looking for something like that. I was googling for 2 hours and couldn't find anything. :icon14:

The low pressure return port was the biggest challange for me. The hole in the crossmenber has to get closer to the rack mount , right up to it. What I ended up doing was slicing a star pattern in the xmember and hammering it down/in about 2 inches, ya you need at least that much clearence. Then I got an -6 to 16mm x 1.5 mm male to male adpater from McMaster Carr. Then to hook a hose to it I got a -6 45 degree slip fit hose fitting and clamped it. on the high pressure side I got a -4 to 14 x 1.25 mm adapter from MMC. I have go find my receipts to confirm the adapter sizes so don't quote me on them. The small braided lines are -4 , 20 and 24 inches long and the 4 ends were custom made with the stock fittings and -4 made fittings brazed together. I later found out the the size of the small lines are actually 12 mm brake line fittings, so you may just need to get regular 12mm Brake lines. Check out the post by ON3GO about hard barke lines for a source. The think that would be a better way of doing it. The size of my damper is 6 7/8 in it's a fluid street damper and it barely give's me room to install a serpintine belt, we're talking less than a 1/8 inch clearence, Ive since purchased a 6.5 in damper that gives me more peace of mind . I hope that helps.

I have 6 mini video's that I took with motorola v3 phone, can someone convert them to a usable format that I can down load here? Thanks guys.