mtnickel

The signal out of the ECU is going to be far better than the adapter signal on the white wire. I even got my stock tach to work with an adapter I made. It uses the ECU's signal to trigger a Transistor to give a voltage spike through a small relay coil. You shouldn't need all that however and should just need a 12v Pullup. The stock ECU sends out a digital signal that is open(not connected), then ground, open, then ground. So not a square wave, but becomes a square wave if you use a pullup. It then outputs 12v when it would have been open, but still outputs ground when the ECU goes ground (since the likely internal resistance of the output is much lower than the pullup resistor resistance). If you need help with wire colors and diagrams, let me know.

Ordered one up. Assembled is 125 + shipping. Link is : http://www.insaneimportperformance.com/home.html He could do with a little more detailed info, but ihiryu described it well. Even at that price it's a full featured unit compared to what's out there.

Any update on this? I sold a few things on ebay and came into some paypal funds and am looking at getting some sort of knock detection for when I go to turn the boost up on the beast.

As he said...can play with end link length. I ran a Die down my end link to extend the threads, then cut the spacer down about 1" i think.

A wheel is actually spec'd at 8" from bead seat to bead seat which is the inner part of the rim. The outer width would probably be at least .25-5" further away. As another note, if you have rear sectioned struts with coilovers, you can often gain a little more backspacing. One way to figure out how much room you have is to just measure you current setup (hopefully knowing your stock wheel width and offset) and extrapolate from there how much wider you can go. Without flares, I found the 8" width wheels to look a little "hella flush" or "pressed out". More of a modern or tuner type look. I opted for 16x7 0 offset with a nice squared off tire (205 bridgestone RE-11a which are actually nearly as wide as some 225's). I agree that if you can find it, a 7.5" with a 0 or 5-7mm offset would be ideal. Good luck! Pics at the bottom of this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116416-my-1974-260z-rb-the-neverending-project/?p=1144125 Ride height is stock, soon to be lowered, but you get the idea. Konig Rewinds. Cheap...readily available...period correct look (watanabe clone).

Would you mind posting a few measurements of this bar? i'm heading to a wrecker soon and wanting to see if I can find anything similar. Pretty simple bend profiles. Perhaps a measurement of the longest portion, length of the legs, and the width at the leg ends where the end links mount (width across car so to speak). Regards, Mark

Well, all the kits looked roughly the same when I bought: Similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-1971-72-73-1974-240Z-260Z-Black-Carpet-Kit-20-ounce-NEW-/322070026490?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item4afcde98fa:g:dlAAAOxycmBS6mij&vxp=mtr It did require some trimming here and there. And also needed to be glued in. But it was a complete kit, and I was happy with the quality of the carpet. Somehow it looks like it went up in price. I paid $185 + 22 shipping. Now it's more like $245 shipped. I purchased from newark Auto Products. That said, I have not compared it to any other carpet kit. And as I said, it did require trimming. So purchase at your own risk. Mark

I bought the cheapest kit. I thought quality was fairly high. I got carpeted tunnel as well. Now I just need either carpet or vinyl for the rear strut towers

Thanks guys, It does work quite well. I didn't make it super clear in the post, but I put a few layers of cloth over the fleece before I removed the wood. The fleece itself, wouldn't have held up to the amount of wiggling I had to do to get the pieces out. I'd highly recommend doing more to have the wood release than I did. I was worried at times I would crack the piece.

Well if you need to run 5 psi early, then you will certainly need a 5psi spring. As for what spring to use when you go up to 15psi, there are a couple things at play. 1) if the spring is too soft (low PSI), then even if you use a MBC, you may not be able to get very High psi's as the wastegate flapper will push open. 2) The degree to which the above will happen depends a lot on the size of the diaphragm in the wastegate. With an external gate, I wouldn't be surprised if you could hold 15psi even on the 5psi spring. 3) I would however choose about a 10psi base spring. I feel that the closer your spring is to your MBC setting, the more stable the MBC operation will be. Hope that makes sense. Mark

The banjo bolt? I'm sure you could order it. However, may not be useful if you're oil feed line kit uses a different AN style of adapters. Often times you can get restrictor adapters with your aftermarket line kit. Though we would both then need to know what size of restrictor. Could just go with what garret recommends for their ball bearing turbos. Regards, Mark

Here's a question, did they give you the stock oil feed banjo bolt?? I'm using this turbo on my Honda for fun and want to make sure I have the proper oil restrictor for the ball bearing turbo. If you have they bolt, wonder if you could measure it's oriface diameter for me.

As another note, my rear brake lines looked like yours in the last pic. Covered in underbody spray, as well as dirt and grime. I got some new sticky tires and proceeded to "test" out my brakes only to have the exact same thing happen. Blew a line about 6" away from the T in the back. No brake pressure either, just like you. Luckily no accident either. But It may be a lesson that you may want to address all the lines. I'm doing my fuel lines as well. 40 years and dirt/grime and rubbing/vibrating at the isolators could mean rust.

Note as well that a smaller slave results in more travel. Opposite effect from a smaller master. Probably known, but thought I'd make sure it's understood.

I have this problem as well, BUT I also have a different slave cylinder. From other posts, people have said a certain year corolla one works (AE71?). I went with that, and I have the same problem. It is however a 13/16" slave. The stock RB25 slave was 3/4". I have ordered the original RB25 slave and will see if that helps the travel problem. I could drive the car with the 13/16, but there was no dead zone at the bottom of travel even with all the slack taken out. Interestingly, the Nismo Spec slave is 13/16" as well to decrease pedal effort. Perhaps it requires the nismo slave as well, or it's expected that the performance clutches have less actual throw. Let me know how you make out with the issue. Make sure you you have the oem 3/4" slave. From my reading and searching, the RB25 had the same diameter master cylinder as the S30, so it shouldn't be an issue. Mark

RB25 or 20 turbo is a bang on recommendation. Those things are ceramic wheel smallish turbine T3 style turbos. You can even get a plastic wheel compressor wheel which keeps the rotational weight down as well (to help spool). It is also a ball bearing turbo. This should spool very fast and give you instant torque probably in and around low 2000s. Don't push them over about 260whp though. Be much happier no higher than the stock 230-250 it came with. Seeing as you're in europe, I believe the Skylines are more plentiful there and perhaps available? Mark

I didn't measure specific dimensions, as the fool who sold me the project car had cut down the stock towers. Therefore all measurements would have been meaningless. I do know however that as you have it positioned will probably put the engine a decent ways away from the firewall (maybe 2-3"?). Mine is perhaps a TINY bit too tight as the trans is darn close to the fuel lines at the tunnel entrance, and I probably don't have enough space to get a chain onto a trans bolt to lift it out. I have to first slide the motor forwards to then secure the hoist bolt. But everything I read said you want the engine as far back and low as possible as not to affect weight balance too much. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116416-my-1974-260z-rb-the-neverending-project/?p=1116578

87-89 AW11 MR2 rear shocks. The 85-86 is different but still an AW11 car. (though I've also seen them list the proper year from 8/86-89, meaning late 86 built cars. Maybe model year changed mid year). Tokico Illunima Number BZ3099. Tokico Blue HZ3099. It's probably listed in a few more places, but I guess the more the merrier.

I know there are the impressions lengthwise down the car, but didn't notice any across the car on my 260z. If it was me, i'd use some sheet metal screws or something to suck them together before I tacked. I did notice on my car that the stock rails had some good whacks/dents/irregularities from being improperly jacked up. Pictures would help though.

This answer is on the site. Search. As a quick shortcut for you, MR2 shocks are used in the event you are lowering a fair bit (1.75" or more I'd say). They are used as they are shorter than the standard strut and allow you more usable travel. You do however have to "section" your strut meaning cut it shorter and weld it back together. Read up.

Well done! Figuring out the stock circuit is not the easiest thing in the world what with the poorly labeled FSM and polarity reversal. I posted the other relevant diagrams and explain why this is the best method to use for any of the later cars with the intermittent box. You don't need the extra relay like some say as it's already inside the intermittent box. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124734-understanding-the-260z-and-280z-wiper-circuit-reverse-polarity-park/?do=findComment&comment=1166141

Hi there, I know a lot of wiper stuff has been covered at length, but I was curious about how to seamlessly integrate a Honda motor into the stock Z and wanted to understand the wiring circuit entirely. One little tidbit has been missed in a lot of this stuff. From looking at the diagrams, what is interesting is that when the wipers are set to off, the polarity to the wiper motor is reversed. It then operates for a short time in reverse to fully park the wipers. It does this due to a little fact that the wipers will actually go lower when the motor is ran in reverse. I found this out on Zclub.net. Heres' the quoted tidbit: (reference: http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?s=7082a089822ad1081635656e790cb302&p=210942&postcount=9). Final parking of the wiper arms. This is the clever bit which took me a while to work out. When the wipers are switched off the DC motor reverses it’s direction due to circuitry controlled by a relay strapped on to the side of the motor (this relay is used at other times too in the wiper operation). The linkage is attached to the motor via a short arm an eccentric cam bearing and coil spring. During normal operation the eccentric cam is in a position which has the effect of shortening the linkage, when the motor reverses the coil spring tightens due to the direction of travel, grips the eccentric cam, rotates it through 180’ and lengthens the linkage thus parking the wipers lower down the screen – clever eh? That’s why when switching to the off position the wiper always does a wipe – it’s to ‘park’ the wipers low down the screen. Now the problem is that on most cars (your’s? mine was) this coil spring will be broken and so the wipers will not park fully! If you position the wiper to park low down then this will become part of it’s normal sweep and so the other end of the sweep will be short! On the internet sites I’ve looked at nobody understands the purpose of this broken spring and because the wipers work with it broken it’s overlooked. While I haven't inspected my spring yet, I will do so soon as well as check if it does indeed park lower. But now came the thought about whether I should upgrade to the Honda motor or not. My wipers work fine albeit a little slowly. I feel now I'd rather have a little slow working wiper, but have them park lower. I feel if I use the Honda motor, it would be guess work if the park lobes (internal contacts) are setup the same to allow the reverse park to happen. But since I fully understand the circuit now, I figured I'd throw in a definitive answer on the best way to use the 260z or 280z with the intermittent function (as well as park, and low and high). This diagram I found on here is correct for the hookup: It's from a 76' 280z. Not my diagram, but kudos to BackDoorZ on here. Here's the Wiper FSM from 74 260z: This diagram is annoyingly hard to follow since they label the wires by function instead of color. The 6 wires going into the motor in the diagram and their respective colors are: B (Battery?) - Blue/Red P (Park?) - Yellow 2 (?) - Blue/White (Yellow/Green on 77-78 280z) E (earth) - Black H (High) - Blue/Yellow L (Low) - Blue - (Yellow/Blue on 77-78 280z) As a helper I believe the S and M switch is the internal lobe contacts in the stock wiper motor. S possibly meaning "stopped" and M "moving". Some notes: The middle part of the switch shows that if the switch is in 'int'/low/high, then it sends ground down the 2 wire. This energizes a relay in the wiper motor that sets the polarity so that it's 12v on top and then gets ground for either the low or high speed windings out the bottom. Tricky part is that if you switch to the off position mid stroke, then the power to the relay is cut mid stroke, so how does it keep 12v on the top of the motor. Well, when it's mid stroke, the S/M wiper will be on M and connect ground to the P wire. But it also lets current flow throw the diode to ground (in the wiper motor) keeping that relay energized till the stroke is done. So now it's finished it's default power stroke. When it gets back to the S wiper, it will invert the power to the top of the motor (you can see the top of the motor connected directly to E (earth). If you Trace the L wire back through, you can it goes back through 3, then into the box, then out P and ultimately connects back to 12v causing the motor to turn in reverse for a given period. I take it the specific phasing and size of the low will determine how much it actually rotates back. Here's the Honda (1997 accord, though I believe all the colors are the same): Putting these 2 together is a little tricky, but let me explain why BackDoorZ's diagram above works. He notes in his post that the Blue/white wire is never hooked up to anything. This is because it's sole purpose is to invert the power to the stock motor. The obvious: Honda - datsun - function Green/black - blue/red - this is constant 12v power. Basically always send power to one side of the motor. Black - black - this is always ground Blue - Blue - low speed wire. blue/yellow - blue/yellow - high speed wire. Honda's blue/white wire basically outputs 12v when the wiper is parked, and it outputs ground when it's mid stroke. By hooking this up to the yellow wire you get the intermittent and park to work. Looking at the 'int' diagram for the datsun, observe the 2 pole to the left of the capacitors (C1, C2). When the intermittent box actuates, it basically connects ground (E) up to M, which if you trace it back through connects to the low speed side. It probably only does this for a short moment, but enough to get the wiper into motion. But when the int box kicks off, it basically connects the low speed wire up to the P (the Yellow wire). Connecting this to the honda blue/white wire assures that you will again provide ground to the low speed wire till the wiper parks. I know that is really wordy, but the OCD in me wanted to get all these diagrams out there for those to see why it works or to troubleshoot issues. Can help with understanding why your stock circuit is acting up as well. ps. if you want to understand how the pie piece works on the honda diagram, assume the large part of the pie rotates and it is ground, the left small pie piece is 12v and is stationary, and the middle contact connects rides on whichever one is below it.

One thing to remember is that the adjuster is naturally locked only turns freely in the tightening direction. The metal tab lever locks it from going looser. So to back the adjuster off you have to almost use 2 tools. one to press the metal tab away from the teeth and another to actually turn the adjuster. Good luck! I resorted to a sturdy dead blow hammer method. then i think I used a piece of hardwood on the fins (to protect aluminum) and upgraded to a metal hammer. Mark

I've also had a great experience with JDMsource.ca Again, a Canadian company, but could be worth pricing. Lots to read about them too on different forums. I recall looking into them for Honda engines way back when, and then used them for my Rb25. They were able to include a trans yoke for me too. Driveshaft guy ended up not even using it though. Also got them to send me a z32 ecu for very little money (maybe free?) so I could mod it for Nistune/chipping. Compression tested very even across the board, though the engine did have moderate amounts of corrosion in the coolant lines and on aluminum parts. Perhaps to be expected for junkyard type engine. Mark Side note, exhaust stud on cylinder 1 nearly fell off. Broken studs is a common problem and they are often just on the cusp of breaking. I redid all of them while the engine was out. 3 more sheered off while attempting removal. Yet another one of those nickel-dime costs associated with an RB swap. I think the oem stud kit was like $70 or something silly.

If it is the later tach that is not current sensing, then you can also build a little circuit with an inductor (coil) from any regular automotive relay. I outlined the process I believe in the RB forum on getting stock gauges to work. Some people have gotten the tach to work with just a 12v square wave (like megasquirt would give you) as well. First let everyone know what style tach you have. getting the current loop sensing one to work could be trouble though. Mark